13's on Nitrous
I dont know either man, but I was having a similar problem out at Houston Raceway Sunday night. My best run was 12.047@117.46 with a hundred shot but my sixty foot time was no better than1.958 all night long and I have front runners with 26x10.5x15 MT ET Streets. I know my next mod will be a torque converter..my buddy with a 3500stall was cutting 1.6 60fters. I know I should be in the 11s I was running 13.8 N\A on nittos and a 100shot should atleast take off a full sec plus the front runners should help out and the et streets are cutting the same 60ft times as my nittos but worse...does not make sense... I was really getting frustrated!! People kept telling me it was my tire pressure but now that i look at my slips ...the time got worse as i lowered the press. After reading that post about the endlinks and unbolting them i just remembered hell i took my entire swaybar of when i was running the 12.8s N\A and my sixty foot times were better....This friday its coming off again!!!! GOOD LUCK MAN!!!
Fresh plugs, preferbly Delco or NGK, gapped at .035. At .060, you might be blowing out the spark. Also, I can't believe no one said anything about tuning. HP Tuners is a wonderful tool if you know how to use it. Lose shift delay, and torque management. You'll pick up a couple tenths there. Take unnecesary weight out of the car as well.
Originally Posted by gmpower
I dont have a gauge to monitor PSI. Before I went to the track I dipped the bottle in hot water and mounted it in the car. Bottle blanket on order, but i guess might as well place an order for a heater and gauge.
9/22/06
13.7 @ 102
RT .867
60' 2.099
Nitrous Express MAF Kit On Order
BIG Thanks to Scott at WWW.NITROUSDIRECT.COM for a SUPER deal!
Ok, well I can guarantee you are knocking. SLP Maf does not work well with spray, also the IAT mod is preventing you from receiving proper fueling. Also, lose the heavy C5 wheels. If they are repros, they're way heavy. Some of the stuff you are doing here is counterintuitive.
These are my new and only mods. The wheels are OEM GM
my 98 a4 T/A mods are exactly: WS6 hood,FRA mod, TB bypass, Lid, filter, bellow, Borla exhaust w/o plate and 555r D/R's
Plugs: NGK TR6 4177 gapped at .36
my 98 a4 T/A mods are exactly: WS6 hood,FRA mod, TB bypass, Lid, filter, bellow, Borla exhaust w/o plate and 555r D/R's
Plugs: NGK TR6 4177 gapped at .36
Originally Posted by Brian2006
You don't have an oiled K&N air filter do you? Because I've seen guys that oiled the filter too much, or on the wrong side, and the oil gets all over the MAF sensors and loose a bunch of power. Happened to my friend while he was dynoing his car. Took that MAF off, sprayed the sensors with batery terminal cleaner, and gained 30hp.
Thanks
Cool, I wouldn't want to see someone pop a motor because of the previous combo listed. Your altitude plays a big effect, and your 98 heads are holding you back. As a reference point, my 00 241 headed Formula went 13.60 @ 102-3 bone stock. With an SLP lid, Magnaflow catback and tuning went 13.000@106. Adding a converter and rear hal's took it down to 12.20 @109.
Have you done any preventative maintainence? Fuel filter and the ilk?
Have you done any preventative maintainence? Fuel filter and the ilk?
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I agree that it's the 60' also. I know when I would run on my street wheels and tires (17x11's with 315 nitto 555 drag raidials) I'd have to drop the tire pressure to 15 lbs and heat them up pretty good.
I would not use the nitrous until you know the bottle pressure. stall = quicker 60 + engine stays in the desired racing rpm throughout the rpm range ,shift kit= more line pressure , less heat and a longer lasting trans , less clutch slippage , TUNE and a aftermarket Transmission cooler = once again less heat, heat is the enemy . Do those following mods and you will be spanking ***
Last edited by cws T/A; Oct 31, 2006 at 04:30 PM.
60' 2.164
That is your sixty foot from your timeslip above , dragstrips timing devices measure at different points 60ft , 330 1/8mile ,1000ft ,1/4 mile
60' Time - Time it takes a vehicle to travel the first 60' of the track. Good 60' time is a crucial to achieving superior elapsed times. It is a good indicator of above average driving skills.
That is your sixty foot from your timeslip above , dragstrips timing devices measure at different points 60ft , 330 1/8mile ,1000ft ,1/4 mile
60' Time - Time it takes a vehicle to travel the first 60' of the track. Good 60' time is a crucial to achieving superior elapsed times. It is a good indicator of above average driving skills.
im looking at all my time slips from the past couple months, and it looks like all my 60' are above slower than 2.1XX.
the best 60' that I have done is in my sig
the only difference is that on this run i drove around the waterbox and then backed up into the damped area, but still my buddy was drivng through the waterbox and cutting better 60' than me.
60' 2.099
13.7 @ 102
the best 60' that I have done is in my sig
the only difference is that on this run i drove around the waterbox and then backed up into the damped area, but still my buddy was drivng through the waterbox and cutting better 60' than me.
60' 2.099
13.7 @ 102
Originally Posted by captainwizbang
Work on your 60'. It's way high. If you get the 60' down to 1.8, you'll break into the 12's.
i have nitto D/Rs 285/35/18
Originally Posted by gmpower
I dont have a gauge to monitor PSI. Before I went to the track I dipped the bottle in hot water and mounted it in the car. Bottle blanket on order, but i guess might as well place an order for a heater and gauge.
If you don't have a n20 gauge you have no idea what your n20 to fuel ratio is. You could be low on pressure even on a full bottle because its cold out and be running pig rich. Or worse its a hot afternoon and your bottle pressure is sky high and you lean your motor to much and its toast. This would be like FI car with no boost gauge. You gotta have one to know whats go in on.