Problem with TNT fuel solenoid. Please help!!
I have a 2002 Z06 with a TNT F2 100 wet shot. It has all the accessories, MSD window switch, low fuel pressure hobbs switch, bottle heater, NX remote opener, purge, ect. I just had the fuel solenoid gone through by TNT, and re-installed it. The problem is that with the system armed the Nitrous sprays, but fuel does not. This happened while dyno tuning. So, we disconnected the lines from the nozzles and let them vent to atmosphere. Armed the system and went again. Sure enough, when it hits only the nitrous sprays. Confirmed power and fuel supply. So I used a power probe and the fuel solenoid clicks. With Key on, engine off I armed the system and had a buddy hold the gas pedal at WOT to activate the solenoid. Then I used my power probe and induced power and it sprayed fuel. I checked TNT's instructions and the Solenoids are non polarized, and are wired in parallel, so if I understand this properly if one dosen't work then neither of them should?? So long story short when armed the nitrous sprays, but the fuel does not. But I can manually trip it and it will work.
Any help would be great.
Thanks,
Nick
Any help would be great.
Thanks,
Nick
Last edited by Amar1995; Nov 19, 2006 at 12:02 PM. Reason: Fixed Problem
Nick. This may sound stupid, but seems like you've done a pretty good check on everything else... did you look at the fuel nozzle and jet to make sure it didn't get plugged when apart?
The only other thing I can think of is just bad wiring. How did you connect them in parallel? using the 'vampire' connectors? they suck.
The only other thing I can think of is just bad wiring. How did you connect them in parallel? using the 'vampire' connectors? they suck.
Originally Posted by Todd157k
Nick. This may sound stupid, but seems like you've done a pretty good check on everything else... did you look at the fuel nozzle and jet to make sure it didn't get plugged when apart?
The only other thing I can think of is just bad wiring. How did you connect them in parallel? using the 'vampire' connectors? they suck.
The only other thing I can think of is just bad wiring. How did you connect them in parallel? using the 'vampire' connectors? they suck.
My bad, I forgot to mention I inspected the jets and the fuel supply line. All connections are soldered and then shrink wraped. Everything worked perfectly before I removed the fuel solenoid to get it serviced by TNT. Made sure it clicked before I installed it, and then went throught the above mentioned daig. And here we are.
Thanks for the help,
Nick
When you sent the fuel noid in, did you put the schrader valve back in the fuel rail? If so did you pull it back out when you put the fuel noid back into service? Maybe it is working but getting no fuel because of the schrader valve. Just a thought.
I thought about that too Beer, but in his opening he stated:
" With Key on, engine off I armed the system and had a buddy hold the gas pedal at WOT to activate the solenoid. Then I used my power probe and induced power and it sprayed fuel."
So I assumed there was gas flowing that far. This one is a tuffy. I'll think of something... at 2:00 in the morning! LOL
" With Key on, engine off I armed the system and had a buddy hold the gas pedal at WOT to activate the solenoid. Then I used my power probe and induced power and it sprayed fuel."
So I assumed there was gas flowing that far. This one is a tuffy. I'll think of something... at 2:00 in the morning! LOL
Try running a seperate power line from the relay to each noid. I think I understand how you said it was wired. Sometimes one noid will pull the amp load first and leave none or not enough for the second one. I am guessing you may have one power 12v line coming from relay then tapped into the two lines from the noids? Something to try anyway.
Robert
Robert
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Originally Posted by Robert56@NitrousDirect
Try running a seperate power line from the relay to each noid. I think I understand how you said it was wired. Sometimes one noid will pull the amp load first and leave none or not enough for the second one. I am guessing you may have one power 12v line coming from relay then tapped into the two lines from the noids? Something to try anyway.
Robert
Robert
The schrader valve is removed form the fuel rail. Where is a good ground for the noids on the LS6??
I have a shared power sorce for the noids so you are saying I might be dropping all my Voltage across the Nitrous noid? That is very interesting, I will try seperate powers from the relay. There will be an update soon
Thanks again for all the help,
Nick
There is a main ground wire below battery on frame (like a 10 gauge), or I use the tab coming from the rail to the manifold (the bolt goes into block) at back of manifold batt side. you can test it with a continuity tester or ohm meter.
Robert
Robert
Finally got to the botom of it. thanks to the guys at Xtreme motorsports in Tempe, AZ. It turns out me TPS controller was bad. it was constantly sending a signal and not arming the system properly. they installed a mechanical switch on the gas pedal and it works perfectly. I recommend them to anyone who has an LS series motor. I will post dyno numers later this week. Thank you all for the help.
Nick
Nick
Good numbers, however, looks like your running out of fuel supply at the end. Might be time for a return and reg at the rails and/or a fuel pump. Are you going to run it leaning out on the top end, as this is where it would be better to go a little richer.
Robert
Robert
Originally Posted by algws6
what does your set up consist of? also what have you done to your fuel system?
It is a TNT F2 wet kit with dual shark nozzles in the power ring. I also have the MSD window switch, bottle heater, purge, low fuel pressure switch, ect. I am running a 100 wet shot on the stock Z06 fuel system with upgraded 32lb and hour injectors. Then tuned at Xtreme Motorsports in Tempe, AZ.
Originally Posted by Robert56@NitrousDirect
Good numbers, however, looks like your running out of fuel supply at the end. Might be time for a return and reg at the rails and/or a fuel pump. Are you going to run it leaning out on the top end, as this is where it would be better to go a little richer.
Robert
Robert
Yeah, you are right. I was in a hurry to get ready for a race this weekend so I just put a 6000 RPM pill in my MSD window switch. I will post a time slip later today. What would you recommed that I upgrade to? Do you sell these parts? If not could you tell me where to look?
Thank you for your help,
Nick
Here is a Time Slip.
Info: 11.856 at 121.488mph
Track: Speed world in Phoenix, AZ
Elevation: 1250ft
Temp: 87 degrees
This was my first run on the bottle and on Drag Radials. The DR's were BFG's in stock Z06 sizes, 295 35 r18. I spun out on my launch, my sixty foot time shows this. If I modify my fuel system so I can spray past 6000rpms and get more seat time I think I still have alot of potential in this set up. My time is on the right.
Thanks,
Nick
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Info: 11.856 at 121.488mph
Track: Speed world in Phoenix, AZ
Elevation: 1250ft
Temp: 87 degrees
This was my first run on the bottle and on Drag Radials. The DR's were BFG's in stock Z06 sizes, 295 35 r18. I spun out on my launch, my sixty foot time shows this. If I modify my fuel system so I can spray past 6000rpms and get more seat time I think I still have alot of potential in this set up. My time is on the right.
Thanks,
Nick
[IMG]
[/IMG] Racetronics has a plug and play kit for our cars, come swith a hot wire kit and pump. If that's not enough then you can think about the return and reg at the rails. Make sure you post your Et up in the stickies for the vette guys. Also, there is a new Fast Z06 list at vetteforum in z06 section, it's a sticky and has catagories for all. Get that 60 down and you'll see low 11's real quickly, good luck and keep us updated.
Robert
Robert


