NOS two-stage nitrous controller
NOS two-stage nitrous controller has anyone had any experience with these? im just flipping through summit and this caught my eye, it looks exactly like one of those dynotune window switch/tps switch.. except this one has "twin independent stages, each with its own TPS activiation switch and progressive ramp", and its controlled by a hand held programmer that comes with it..
its $230, anyone have any experience with these? you guys think it would be worth the extra $100 for this over lets say a dynotune window switch/tps?
its $230, anyone have any experience with these? you guys think it would be worth the extra $100 for this over lets say a dynotune window switch/tps?
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I have one in my 94....I like the fact you don't need a lap top to interface w/it....it makes adjusting the ramp time/%'s very easy in between runs....
the digital window switch gives you the ability to electronically lock out a gear. This would let you not spray in first then have 100% activation the instant you shift to second.
A progressive controller is designed to help you maintain traction....if the car is hooking on motor but spinning on nitrous you have 2 options. Either Delay the activation or ramp the nitrous from a smaller start percentage.
Here is an example....
1st run (NA) dead hooks
2nd run (150hp) spins hard on launch
3rd run (150) 0 delay 50% start....ramp to 100% over 1.0....slight spin on launch
4th run (150) .5 sec delay, 50% start ramp to 100 over 1.0.....car hooks
For the best ET's you want to start the nitrous as early as possible, with as high a start %, and as short a ramp time as the availible traction will permit.
With making small adjustments to the delay time (how long it waits before activating the nitrous) the start percentage, and the ramp time, you have the ability to make adjustments for track conditions.
The thing to remember is a progressive is a for traction control not horsepower control.
the digital window switch gives you the ability to electronically lock out a gear. This would let you not spray in first then have 100% activation the instant you shift to second.
A progressive controller is designed to help you maintain traction....if the car is hooking on motor but spinning on nitrous you have 2 options. Either Delay the activation or ramp the nitrous from a smaller start percentage.
Here is an example....
1st run (NA) dead hooks
2nd run (150hp) spins hard on launch
3rd run (150) 0 delay 50% start....ramp to 100% over 1.0....slight spin on launch
4th run (150) .5 sec delay, 50% start ramp to 100 over 1.0.....car hooks
For the best ET's you want to start the nitrous as early as possible, with as high a start %, and as short a ramp time as the availible traction will permit.
With making small adjustments to the delay time (how long it waits before activating the nitrous) the start percentage, and the ramp time, you have the ability to make adjustments for track conditions.
The thing to remember is a progressive is a for traction control not horsepower control.
Last edited by Ray@Nitrous Outlet; Feb 23, 2007 at 11:29 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Bowling Green, KY
Sorry sidewayz I must have missed this one, but Ray's description is spot on.
I am currently using one on a 70 Nova with a carb'd 454 and 200HP from a single stage Cheater plate and have no complaints. Using 235/60/15 M/T ET Street Radials I ended up with a .5 sec delay starting with 30% and ramping up to a 100% over 2 seconds.
It keeps those skinny tires from spinning.
Kyle
I am currently using one on a 70 Nova with a carb'd 454 and 200HP from a single stage Cheater plate and have no complaints. Using 235/60/15 M/T ET Street Radials I ended up with a .5 sec delay starting with 30% and ramping up to a 100% over 2 seconds.
It keeps those skinny tires from spinning.
Kyle