Really, man I thought I could get into the tens on a dry hit, oh that's right I have; and all the current any power adders bonestock longblock vette records are held by dry hits and all in the tens, hmmm... all the wet hits have come up short as have the blowers, and turbo(s). Boy you should share your insight with all the guys allready doing it.
Might want to check out the wet vs dry thread, I will put my dry hit up against any wet hit.

The key to getting 10's with a dry is having a sufficient fuel system ie: injectors and pump. You'll neeed a fair sized shot. Also, dual staging or progressing can allow your drivetrain to survive, but no gurantees.
Robert

 

Here we go again, does these old ways and thinking never cease. Your lacking on updated facts and info.

First, the NOS 5177 is limited to about 135rwhp because of redundant noids and restriction, so even with no jets in that's the limit. Split the noids up and 300 shot is doable, change nozzles and it'll hit like a *****: been there, done that.
Second, if your using their (nos) jets it is in fact rated at the crank, so a 100 hit is really a 85 hit.
Third, if you install nozzles as NOS suggests, then you going to get a slower mor progressive hit.
Fourth, you trust your MAF, PCM and injectors every day to add the fuel required, so why would it not work, or fail as you implied on the spray? Nonsense.
Fifth, TNT under rates their shots, so a 100 shot is really a 125/135 shot, so no real comparison. (great marketing ploy on their part, but dosen't mean they are more powefull)
Sixth , the basic fact, if set-up correctly, x-amount of nitrous and x-amount of fuel, given same a/f, wet or dry will give basic same results.
Seventh , the inherent safety factor of the dry by design makes it a very favourable choice over wet for many.

Read the wet vs dry thread, lots of up dated info.

 

Rob, i love reading your wet vs dry comments on both boards



Ok.. so bigger injectors and bigger fuel pump...


suggestions??? I don't wanna over kill but i want enough...

The car will be full weight... Run on DR's... Slipping the clutch from about 5k... The car will be driven daily and will make long trips to the track.. weekend racing... 10 passes or so each weekend..

I think a brace is pretty much a requirement for my IRS...

What would be teh best way to make the hit progressive?? controller?

Yes, i'm aware i'm living on the edge a lil.. if something doesn't hold then welll... it wasn't strong enough and we rebuild it... I have an escort ready to get me to work if the vette isn't up to the job..


oh ya... and what kinda hit are we talking about to get a low 12 sec car into the 10's?

 

see sig, I ran 10.70's on a completely stock engine with a dry kit. custom 3 nozzle two stage NOS 5177 kit that I sold to CAT3 and is pictured in his signature

 

I ran a TR230/224 cam with all the bolt ons and a TNT 150 shot. I only sprayed it 3 times and all were in the 10's. If tuned a little bit more for the n2o, I think it would have a few tenths faster.

With a big stalled auto, it would be even faster then that.

 

Yes, larger injectors. I choose to use the SVO Ford 42lb'ers, which are about 47/48lb'ers at our higher fuel pressure and good to about 600rwhp. I got them used for half price from a Lighting buddy, around 80 bucks at that time.

Many are doing the 550rwhp on stock pumps. However, I decided to upgrade to the Racetronis kit with the hot wire, just added piece of mind for going big. If you start going lean on the highest demand area that's a sign your running out of pump, or watching for fuel pressure drop.

A strut brace is allmost mandatory for saving the trans/rear from splitting apart. A good clutch is also a must if your running hard, Textralia is my suggestion.

A progressive sw of your choice, and/or dual staging if going over 150rwhp would be helpfull on breaking up the torque spike. Now as most know, getting a vette with a stick and independant rear into the tens is no easy feat. It can be done with a 150shot if all the planets are in alignment, but if that won't do it, your just a jet size or so away from getting there.
Robert

 

All you guys have KICKASS cars and time slips. If my 2 cents is worth anything. Spend the money on safe guards so you dont potentially have problems. Such as a stand alone fuel system with tons of octane, correct timing 22-24 degrees, cold plugs, good set of forged pistons with a thick crown for nitrous etc. My previous experience and opinion with the stuff I listed I had know problems. But all of the above replies are all correct.


69 Camaro LS6 with 300 HP Nitrous Injected. 9.92 1/4 e.t

 

I have access to E85.. since i'm doing a fuel up grade from nearly front to back... I was thinking about making the car E85 friendly... This would allow me to run some high octane at low cost.....

List...

injectors (40#'s plus)
pump
brace
HPtuners
Progressive Controller
N20 kit

Couple quick questions

If i upgrade my fuel injectors and pump and leave my tune as is... will everything be ok??? will i be running really rich???

 

Yep this is were my next mods are going. Fuel Pump and DTE Brace. Then maybe a Convertor and gears.

I am targeting 500 RWHP; which should be easy with my setup as it is now.


MagiC5 you will need to change your Injector Flow Rate table. Real easy with HPT or EFI live.

 

Lets line them up

I know not fair I have the 23* Handicap

 

tens is fairly ez with a c5 vette. the biggest problem is traction.
robert's dual stage is awesome !! mine is all stock with 125 wet shot and 2nd stage 100 dry shot........ 10's all day long

 

Watch for dedicated fuel system for dry hits, I am working on one now, and it's really simple.
As Beer stated, you'll need to rescale your injector tables, but programs for doing so are readilly available (redhardsupra has one that work's well).
Robert

 

Hey where'ed you come from? No 9 sec race cars allowed.
Robert

 

Interesting thread. I see somebody mentioned tuning. My advice would be don't forget the wideband sensor and now a fuel pressure sensor to log those parameters. RedHardSupra (Marcin) has a great write up on the FPS setup for getting those injectors lined up based on the actual load conditions of the car rather than the previous "best guess" spreadsheet. That sheet worked ok, the FPS is even better.

Bottom line, if your goal is to be in the 10s and lower then I would seriously look into taking control of the tuning situation yourself.

 

I agree completely.