breaking 10's on juice?
 

Thats the question...


but lets direct the question more toward me... How do i get into the 10's on Juice......???????????????????????????????

my car...

1998 Coupe, MN6, 118k miles, bolt on's, cammed (228R) 395hp... DR's stock suspension.. BTW... car ran 12.8 with 2.1 60' on street tires last year... I'm thinking with DR's car as is should run a 12.2

Assuming a 1.65 60' how much juice would you assume i need to crack a 10????

I was thinking a dry shot because well i want to keep it hidden.


Can this all be done on my current tune safely???

Can my current fuel system support a 10sec powerplant?


several more questions to follow...

Give up on the dry shot. I have never been a fan of dry shots. Though for ease and convience they are great. But you will not get into the 10's. You need a wet system, about 150 shot. Upgrade your fuel pump to a Walbro 255, or even better a Racetronix plug and play with a hot wire kit. You going to have to improve your suspension for better 60ft times. Get the car as light as possible.

One thing that stands in your way. That 6 speed will go 10's, your driveshaft will go 10's. But that rearend will not survive for long. A few guys I know have dipped into the 10's on a 10 bolt rearend. I broke mine way before I even cracked an 11.

Build a solid foundation. And consider giving that motor a fresh set of bearings, and forged pistons. At that mileage, you may encounter a catostrophic engine failure.

You'll need a clutch to hold the power as well don't forget......

Holy shit, there is some serious ignorance in this post.

To answer your question, a 150 shot (dry or wet) and a good set of tires should get you where you want to be, no problem. I asume you have a C5 right? You'll want to upgrade your fuel pump and if you go dry you'll want to stick a set of injectors in the car. Depending on how aggressive your current tune is, and what you run for fuel, you may need to retune slighty.

Can you give us an idea of how much your car weighs?

I had no idea he was in a Corvette.

I'm not ignorant. I'm the guy that doesnt run on the ragged edge trying to see if I can blow something up. When I decided to go for 10's I had a roll bar put in my car before I even installed the heads and cam, and put in the nitrous. I also upgraded my rearend and bought a complete drag suspension. You want to go low budget 10's for about 20 passes before you blow it up....go for it. You want a good realiable setup that wont need a tow truck at the end of the night then invest a couple of bucks in the basics.

This year I'm going for a solid mid 9 second pass. And I plan on driving home from the drag strip every night after I run those passes.

Yeah but, why exactly shouldn't he go with a dry shot? And why wouldn't it get him in the 10s?

BTW: if done right, and done smart, low budget can be reliable.

I don't trust the dry shot merely because you have to put all your faith in the fuel injectors, PCM, and your MAF sensor. I had an NOS dry system back when they first came out. With the biggest jets it still was not nearly as hard a hit as a wet shot. I bought the TNT power ring conversion kit, and the car picked up nearly a second going with a 150 wet shot vs. NOS dry on 125HP jets. Maybe the guys that run a dry shot have had better luck with it then I did. Maybe I should'nt of dismissed the dry shot so quickly. But I really don't like them. I may have a modern car, but I'm old school in thought.

I must over build or over spend when it comes to my Camaro. I just like having a full interior car, that won't break all the time.

A chunk of that gain is likely due to the fact NOS rates at the fly, and TNT at the wheels. So you could very likely be going from a 80-100whp gain to a 150-160whp gain, and a ton more torque.

I'm with you in preferring wet too, but in the end nitrous is nitrous. And it doesn't care if its shot with fuel or not. You inject a given amount into a cylinder, its going to make the same power wet or dry.

TNT is rwhp rated and NOS is crank rated. Also, it's not un common for TNT jettings to produce more than rates. IMO wet is just as dangerous, I've owned both kits you mentioned. NOS 5177 worked flawless, TNT fuel solenoid plunger swelled up in less than 3 months and almost cost me my motor.

I complety agree with over building the car if it's in your budget. But if your on a low budget, just do your homework and spend wisely.

Edit: NHRA beat me to it. :)

I edited this in after he had posted my quote.

"Maybe I should'nt of dismissed the dry shot so quickly. But I really don't like them. I may have a modern car, but I'm old school in thought."

I might be wrong about the dry shot, but I sure as hell am not ignorant. I took delivery of my 1998 SS in March of 1998, and it was stock for about two weeks. I have had dry shot, wet shot, TNT, NOS, NX and am now going with one of Nitro Dave's plates when he gets one out for the 85mm intake/tb that some of us run. Just calling me ignorant...fuck, I have been racing fuel injected cars since 1985. I was the kid that had the fastest car in school.

Ah, its all in fun. Run what ya brung, and hope you brung enough.

No hard feelings GM Muscle. But you said my post was full of ignorance.....sniff...sniff....and it hurt my feelings.

:(

I'm sorry if I mistook it for ignorance (over reacting I guess) but saying he wouldn't get into the 10s with a dry shot is a pretty bold statement, especially on this site. No hard feelings here either. :)

Damn!!! I was sensing a cack fight come'n on!! lol!.........damit!!!

jk

Okay, before this post gets hi-jacked I will give my "budget" idea for 10's. Get the car as light as possible, you decide on how far your willing to go with that. Get a good 150 shot of nitrous...wet or dry. Upgrade to some drag radials, or consider buying a set of drag only rims and slicks. Get a good clutch that can take the abuse. If you come up short consider a few suspension tweeks. Take note of what GM Muscle said about using dry or wet.

If running 10's congrats. Just remember that you will want to go even faster once you hit a 10.9, you will want to go 10.1. Soon after you want to go 9's. If you can fight off the nitrous addiction bug of always going bigger then you will be fine. If you want more, you will need to overbuild.

you'll need bigger injectors and a tune if you run a dry shot... if you want to make 10's w/ a 6spd let's hope you can :drive:

+1 on the weight reduction.

but even if he can "fight off the nitrous addiction bug" he wont be "fine" ... that'll only last a little while until the stock t56 starts giving him problems, or he blows up his IRS, or his 118k mile longblock takes a shit on him.

i guess the question really is... how often will this car see the track/how often will the nitrous be used?

:jest: You put all your faith in the Injectors, PCM, and MAF every time you drive your car!!! :jest:

also... "assuming a 1.65 60'..."
your car should be around 12.0x on motor...

True, but adding nitrous to the mix??....there is a big difference between a check engine light, and a melted slug that used to be your #8 piston.

oh no the wet vs. dry continues!!! :)


If your injector goes south (as you stated) and melts down a cylinder... wouldn't the same faulty injector melt down a cylinder in a wet shot? The amount of extra fuel delivered by a $40 solenoid is only for the extra oxygen... not for running the motor.
How many threads to you see that say "Help, my injectors failed" or "Help, my MAF failed"

Having said all that.. I do agree with you that wet is far simpler to tune once you max out your injector's DC.