Updated Wiring Diagram - for review/critique
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Southern, NH
Updated Wiring Diagram - for review/critique Thanks for all your patience. Below is an updated wiring diagram which I beleive reflects the feedback I've received to date.
One question I have is whether I have the right size fuses in the right place?
Thanks again!
One question I have is whether I have the right size fuses in the right place?
Thanks again!
Last edited by Matt Kennedy; Apr 20, 2007 at 11:47 AM.
Looks good. One suggestion though. Your bottle heater and purge 12v is on the same fuse as your window switch. The bottle heater will draw 10 amps or more which means that fuse should be 15 amps (or more). Your window switch could turn into melted butter by the time that 15 amp (+) fuse blows. You'll want a much smaller fuse on the window switch line.
Run the bottle heater 12v line (red) up to the Bottle opener 12v feed line. Then fuse that line with a suitable fuse. (look at recommended fuse size for your heater)
And you'll still need a resistor on the LED unless it's already built in.
Run the bottle heater 12v line (red) up to the Bottle opener 12v feed line. Then fuse that line with a suitable fuse. (look at recommended fuse size for your heater)
And you'll still need a resistor on the LED unless it's already built in.
Originally Posted by 2000sscamarovert
hmmm todd does he need 15 amps to activate the soleniod ??? cause the main line is fuse for the bottle heater is fused at 25 amp going into relay #30 out #87 to bottle heater...
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From: Southern, NH
Thanks very much. So I think based on the thread above that I am OK with the heater the way it is since the switch is only tripping the relay right? However, the WS needs its own fuse rated at something less - hos does 5a sound? Here is a link to info this window switch (cool product for the $49 BTW its the size of a matchbook: http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7erz1/id1.html#RWSmod ) Not sure but reading the info that the switch can ground up to 2A maybe it needs something more like a 2a or 3a fuse? Thoughts?
With regard to the LED, the one that I specifically searched for and bought a 12V LED (most were rated much lower even sub 1v... Do I still need the resisitor given its rated for 12V? As I write this I do know that a car can run upwards of 14.4V...hmm...maybe the resistor is not a bad idea...
In any event thanks for all the help.
With regard to the LED, the one that I specifically searched for and bought a 12V LED (most were rated much lower even sub 1v... Do I still need the resisitor given its rated for 12V? As I write this I do know that a car can run upwards of 14.4V...hmm...maybe the resistor is not a bad idea...
In any event thanks for all the help.
Last edited by Matt Kennedy; Apr 19, 2007 at 06:48 PM.
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If the led says it's for 12v applications, it already has a resistor in it. If it's too bright for you, then put in another resistor. Up to you.
I've never seen that window switch. Looks like it will work ok when they set it up for you. As for a fuse... you have several things on that line but 10 amp should be fine. (figure it as if you're opening the bottle with the heater on, and hit the purge all at the same time. Then take the current draws, add them together, multiply the total by 1.5.. that's your fuse size)
I've never seen that window switch. Looks like it will work ok when they set it up for you. As for a fuse... you have several things on that line but 10 amp should be fine. (figure it as if you're opening the bottle with the heater on, and hit the purge all at the same time. Then take the current draws, add them together, multiply the total by 1.5.. that's your fuse size)
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
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From: Southern, NH
Cool, thanks. The LED is enclosed in a tube that is designed to panel mount so it probably does have a resisitor in it.
Ok, don't laugh but I was thinking I could add an additional fuse to the same line but closer to the WS - to protect the WS. No? Maybe I'll just run a seprate end run to the switched source just for the WS and put a smaller fuse on that line.
Thanks!
Ok, don't laugh but I was thinking I could add an additional fuse to the same line but closer to the WS - to protect the WS. No? Maybe I'll just run a seprate end run to the switched source just for the WS and put a smaller fuse on that line.
Thanks!
