NOS surging ????
if all of your nitrous parts are working correctly, it could be your nozzle location, injectors, fuel pump, tune, maf, nitrous hates you, etc.
so go waste some money and buy a wet conversion, it will take some parts that could be failing out of the equation.
you really should spend some money on a WB and tuning software if you want to spray safely. injectors and maybe a pump if you are willing to try to get the dry to work.
what size shot are you spraying?
so go waste some money and buy a wet conversion, it will take some parts that could be failing out of the equation.
you really should spend some money on a WB and tuning software if you want to spray safely. injectors and maybe a pump if you are willing to try to get the dry to work.
what size shot are you spraying?
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im spraying 100 shot dry. I just think that I'm getting a bad MAF reading because of the nozzle position of whatever. Wouldn't getting a wet kit eliminate this? Also what kind of wideband and or tuning software can i get for a reasonable price ? I see the group purchase for the widebands.....i'm guessing alot of guys recommend that one as its a 5 page long thread.
On The Tree
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From: Red Oak,Texas
Originally Posted by smokinrt2001
dynotune 2 stage window switch from nitrous outlet........second stage not hooked up
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Have you set it up on the second stage yet ? I have the orange wire disconnected right now. Do you know how and what setting you would run it at if you were going to run it as a stage 2 only ? Hopefully between the two of us we can figure something out.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Red Oak,Texas
no i havent yet i just thought of it and the weather isnt to nice out side to make some full throttle runs haha, but i am thinking just disconnect the first stge wire and hook up the second stage, then set up the rpm settings. have you tried the light idea yet, it keeps you from pointlessly going through bottles, you can leave the bottle off and just watch the light when you go full throttle
On The Tree
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From: Red Oak,Texas
i used a big led light from autozone, i used a chassis ground and the positive of the lights connects to the positive output of the window switch then i mounted it in my piller pod,(i liked it so i decided to keep it there permanent haha)
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Ahh Well it sounds like we are having the same symptoms and the same problems. I think I am just going to hook up my second stage tonight and do away with the first stage and see what happens. Let me know if you do the same with any results before I do. I should be trying this in about 5 or 6 hours from now.
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Will do right now the nozzle is held by a bracket located in my CAI. It is about 2-3inches from my MAF. I cut the nozzle and made it a straight shooter. I thought that might be too close but I was told that closer means richer and it is safer that way. I am going to order the WideBand on monday and should be able to check my A/F ratio within a week or so.
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Also could it possibly be the way I have my window switch set up ? Does anyone know the right way to set it for the coil pack setting for an 02 vette? I set it at 000 but some others told me it might be 001.....its reading the right rpms, but maybe its not getting the proper electrical signal from the setting when the switch sees the WOT amps?????????
ya i have the same window switch and the same problem as you i have been fighting it for a couple of weeks and still havent sorted it out, i have figured out that the window switch is sending a pulsed signal, i have bypassed the fpss so thats not it. but as far as the pulsing i dont get it i think there is something wrong with the window switch, i just thought about using the second stage instead of the first stage and see if that works, mabey a "channel" in the switch took a **** or something
Also could it possibly be the way I have my window switch set up ? Does anyone know the right way to set it for the coil pack setting for an 02 vette? I set it at 000 but some others told me it might be 001.....its reading the right rpms, but maybe its not getting the proper electrical signal from the setting when the switch sees the WOT amps?????????
THREAD BACK FROM THE DEAD !!!
heres a cross post from nitroustech.com.
The guys an DNO were kind enogh to swap out a box recently after a local speed shop verified it was cycling the noids on/off rapidly on the dyno. they used a test light at the noids and you could see the test light cycle on/off very clearly. i saw it with my own eyes.
fast forward to yesterday, received my replacement w/s from DNO, excellent customer service by the way, and installed it per the insructions. triple checked every thing, took it out and BAM. same thing. i didnt hook the test light up of course but i know what it feels like.
pertinent info:
1999 Corvette M6
nx wet kit
FPSS -bypassed it -no changed, back inline now
i was thinking about a "weak" relay maybe not holding the contacts closed BUT i have the WOT switch providing ground to the relay on the same pin that the W/S grounds when activated and all is well.
the wot switch works well but unfortunately i suck at shifting and have missed 3rd four times and hit the rev limiter/backfired and blew up 2 air bridges !!!
i was talking to a buddy and we both were thinking maybe the TPS is falling below what the w/s think is wot. during setup i did it per the instructions and the w/s displays 4.4 volts as the WOT turn on volts. we were tossing around the idea of trying to trick it into turning on at a lower voltage but not holding the throttle to the floor during the TPAS learn sequence in the instructions.
any thoughts, advice or feed back is welcomed !!
EDIT:
just thinking out loud here.
if i set the w/s up to not use the tpas feature, i guess like a non tps set up or whatever, can i just run the trigger ground to the wot switch and then back to the relay and still utilize the w/s rpm limits which is really what i care about.
just thinking out loud here.
if i set the w/s up to not use the tpas feature, i guess like a non tps set up or whatever, can i just run the trigger ground to the wot switch and then back to the relay and still utilize the w/s rpm limits which is really what i care about.
Launching!
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From: nj, edison
i might have missed this in the thread, surging, due to a rich conditon, is more than likely caused by the lack of good soldered connections for the power circuit to the n20noid . the ground connection is usually not a problem but should be ckd. the other possible caused imo, is that the routing of the supply line maybe coming to close to the exhust headers. and third could be the bottle positon, but you aready ckd. that. by the way, i crimp and than solder over the crimp, you do need a 250w gun for quick soldering.
