Auto Tech says "Never have nozzle before maf...
10-09-2007, 11:15 AM
#23
Might as well try this while your at it: http://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/1567770.phtml
Makes for great power. Especially if you spray after the MAF while doing it.
Makes for great power. Especially if you spray after the MAF while doing it.
10-09-2007, 10:53 PM
#24
Might as well try this while your at it: http://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/1567770.phtml
Makes for great power. Especially if you spray after the MAF while doing it.
Makes for great power. Especially if you spray after the MAF while doing it.
Robert
10-09-2007, 11:00 PM
#25
He's a moron.
First, the narrow-band O2 sensors are completely inaccurate at the afr you should be running on spray. For cruising when you're around 14.7:1 afr, they work great. For 12:1 or richer like you should be around on spray, they're completely wrong.
Second, the MAF does play a role in adding fuel. The nitrous spray through it, and due to it's rapid decompression from 950psi, it changes state from a liquid to solid and drops in temperature. As your 'auto tech' should know, the cooler the charge, the denser it is...The denser it is, the more fuel needed to maintain the proper afrs. So you're fooling the computer in essence into making it believe the air temperature really is something rediculous.(well below freezing)...And then the computer compensates and adds fuel.
I know exactly the type of person this is, because I've dealt with them before. They fool you into thinking they're the ******* God of performance, when in reality they aren't ****. They'll run their mouth and be completely *** backwards, and talk someone like you into changing something and making an expensive mistake.
First, the narrow-band O2 sensors are completely inaccurate at the afr you should be running on spray. For cruising when you're around 14.7:1 afr, they work great. For 12:1 or richer like you should be around on spray, they're completely wrong.
Second, the MAF does play a role in adding fuel. The nitrous spray through it, and due to it's rapid decompression from 950psi, it changes state from a liquid to solid and drops in temperature. As your 'auto tech' should know, the cooler the charge, the denser it is...The denser it is, the more fuel needed to maintain the proper afrs. So you're fooling the computer in essence into making it believe the air temperature really is something rediculous.(well below freezing)...And then the computer compensates and adds fuel.
I know exactly the type of person this is, because I've dealt with them before. They fool you into thinking they're the ******* God of performance, when in reality they aren't ****. They'll run their mouth and be completely *** backwards, and talk someone like you into changing something and making an expensive mistake.
Robert
10-11-2007, 12:27 AM
#26
Pretty good explain, however, I think you meant from a liquid to a vapor. It's the great pressure the n2o is under that when released into a vapor causes a tremendous cooling effect, which us dry guys really like, as well as the MAF that reads density. It does so with a heated wire, said wire trys to maintain it's set temp, and it's the cooling effect which changes the wire temp and resulting current needed to get wire back to temp is converted in a few steps to an increased injector duty cycle. So very simple, and works well.
Robert
Robert
Originally Posted by b00sted
Not solid, I meant gas. It changes from a liquid to a gas rapidly and drops temperature.
I wasn't paying attention.
10-11-2007, 09:32 AM
#29
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Might as well try this while your at it: http://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/1567770.phtml
Makes for great power. Especially if you spray after the MAF while doing it.
Makes for great power. Especially if you spray after the MAF while doing it.
there is no way that there is anyone that is that stupid... seriously. that was a joke right?
10-11-2007, 12:43 PM
#30
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BEWARE: THESE ARE THE PEOPLE WORKING ON YOUR CAR! lol this is why mediocre mechanic shops won't touch anything I own. It's like when they only replace your right front brake pads because the left ones "still have some life left." Find yourself a good shop and some good people for advice.
10-11-2007, 02:30 PM
#31
Have a friend who says my car isn't running as good as it should and I'm going to break something because my dry shot nozzle is before the MAF.
He says spraying into the maf is not a good thing because it doesn't read oxygen levels and it is screwing up the readings.
What do you experts make of this? Here's a pic of my engine bay w/ nozzle in lid.
He says spraying into the maf is not a good thing because it doesn't read oxygen levels and it is screwing up the readings.
What do you experts make of this? Here's a pic of my engine bay w/ nozzle in lid.
10-13-2007, 04:45 PM
#32
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hahjaha i didnt read but half the 1st page your friend is a tard.......go ahead listen to him put the nozzle after the maf......
have fun rebuildin that engine.....lol
have fun rebuildin that engine.....lol
10-13-2007, 11:07 PM
#33
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lol this thread is still going. He's an auto tech....not MY auto tech...I do my own work even if I have to learn on my car. Just the fun of it for me I guess.
10-14-2007, 10:51 AM
#34
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maybe the tech is thinking of the LT1 4th gens. when using a dry kit on the LT1 motor, the nozzle goes after the MAF. it uses two n2o solenoids with a T in the middle. when the noids oopen, nitrous comes out of the T and over to the fuel pressure regulator to hold it shut. also, with the NOS05176 kit, it comes with an inline fuel pump for added volume.
i used to have a LT1 with the 125 dry kit. when i got my LS1 cars, i thought it was the same way, until i found out it goes before. so, the tech just has a lack of knowlege and needs to be brought up to speed is all.
i used to have a LT1 with the 125 dry kit. when i got my LS1 cars, i thought it was the same way, until i found out it goes before. so, the tech just has a lack of knowlege and needs to be brought up to speed is all.
