get rid o anything slp thats nto a lid or catback
get some comp lifters and a cam/spring thats proven to work together

 

Melling oil pump here, ported, shimmed and blueprinted. Nice pressure at my highest demand area. Not cheap, but then again the motor wasn't neither.
Robert

 

Well I was under the impresion the cam and springs went together.Was the slp pump a bad ideal?? Im going to pull it down and do an alum rod ,stock crank, dome tops and step the cam , lifters and springs up to match.. The only time i have the lifter problem is on an n2o pass...

 

i used to run my hyd 402 up to 7200-7400 with comp 921's with no issues, as for the solid, i dont have to adjust them, i set them up and they stay. but it can be done no question, i just liked the idea of solid. little piece of mind i think.

 

Your a clown. RPM is your friend. IF you can make power upo there than its better. More RPM and the faster the car can go in "D" especually once you reach the limit of a 30" tire and 3.55s

 

Were not saying hyd is better. matter of fact we all said solid is better. were just saying we do it hydrolic. Time/Money and drivablilty all were factors in how we have our valve train. they say stock rockers can;t take 8000+ either. Works on mine. same with a stock oiling sytem. ...Ive never had a bearing issue either.

 

The LS1 sings a sweat song at 8400 on a 500 shot LOL

 

Without a question, if I was smart enough to figure out how to make my hydraulic roll to 8400 without breaking something I would. It's a lot cheaper and you can safely drive the car on the street without hurting the cam or motor. I tip my hat to the guys who have figured this out and are successful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

My hyd. setup sees 7200 every passs down the track, and has seen 7600 on the dyno, we wanted to determine where it stopped making power but even at 7600 it was still over 465.... just never really fell off.

Can you run a hydraulic setup to 8000? sure, is it the best way to go about it? Probably not, but if people can get away with it without having problems they will, proof's in this thread.

 

If someone will tell me how to spin mine to 7400 ill listen!!! Im tryin to decide to build a dome , alum rod and stock crank bottom end or go to a 408 im on a pretty tight buget....

 

Aluminum rods and tight budget are oil and water. Dome pistons, welcome to 30 years ago, stay away from anything other than a mild dome if you can. Dontmake your combustion process jump through hoops!

 

Alum rods and a small 10 or 12cc dome is alot cheaper that a 408 shortblock or kit....if i went 408 it would be a flatop motor....If i wasnt doing bang for the buck it would be 454+ lsx block but not on my budget

 

ditch the dome regardless of inches. Alum rods wont last forever either. ATV andShiz motors are both only 11.2-11.4:1 motors, and arent THAT short on power

 

i run a dome and alum rod set up. the new alum rods are not lioke the old ones, you dont have to pull them every season, the streach isnt the same, and they last alot longer then the old ones thatr would be junk after 50-100 runs.

the dome also works very well imo, it helps with heat and alows to run a bit more timming. but again, its my opionion. i like the fact of going 8's on a 200 shot low low 9.1's on a 100 shot all day long. rather then pushing the motor to its limits with 400+ spray.
that was my goal and alum rods and domes with a solid roller did it for me.

pretty sure with the converter set up right and the new heads with 200 shot i should see high 8's without the distruction of parts.

 

ha......I got a stock out of the box oil pump from Chevrolet and I run my motor to 9000 rpms. LOL

 

so what exactly is involved with switching and LSX over to solid roller?

 

These are interesting conversations, I'm running stock oil pump, stock lifters and stock rockers. Hyd cam 246/249 632/628 and shift at about 7000-7200 on the spray.
Given, I'm not running 8's like some of you guys but I plan on it next year.
I'll probably make the switch to a solid roller set up this winter.
Are the stock rockers good with a solid roller? They sure work great with my current setup.

 

Im with Noyzee on this one. I myself have a domed nitrous piston with 14:1 compression. I was going to run the aluminum rods, but W2W and a few others recomended I go to a Howards Billet rod. I am running a pretty big solid roller, almost .800 lift, upper 280's for duration etc etc. I wouldnt run anything but a solid roller UNLESS your class limits you to a hyraulic roller camshaft/valvetrain setup.

My reasoning for going with the solid roller and high compression is that it takes less nitrous and wear and tear on your motor to get what you want. I am only spraying 200 hp on my NX gemini plate and I have gone a 8.94 with alot of suspension tweaking to go. Plus, that was with the progressive set at 40hp off line No water pushed, tons of timing pulled out, the right fuel and I know I'm safe. And its only a 200 shot, not a 350-450 hp shot This next year we are gonna lean on the car a bit and see how deep in the 8's it will go.

The consensus used to be that solid rollers needed to be adjusted ALL the time. Well if you use the right parts, and best parts...you wont have to adjust the valves but a few times a season. We set them when the motor was built, and then checked them after the first few weekend at the track. Last time we only had one rocker that was just ever so slightly loose. Checked them again at the end of the season when we pulled the rockers off the heads and nothing changed

For those of you that are running hyraulic rollers to 8K rpm, good luck. I know it can be done, but I think thats on the extreme upper end of what the hydraulic can be used for. If thats what you WANT to run, be my guest. I'll stick to solid rollers.. I normally shift mine at 8200-8400 and go through the lights at 8500 rpm but thats a solid roller. I know I have gone to 8900 rpm a few times on spray, but I am not worried as my motor is built for RPM. Plus, its a dry sump so I am not worried about oiling anymore either

Just my 2 cents ....

 

At the end of the day though, not too many people are going to be able to afford a dry sump 9000 rpm solid roller to go 8.90s and C25 to drive it home on 14:1

The reason why weve done so much with the hyd stuff, is because ATV hit his hundreds of times, went 9.0s last time out and dumped in 87 octane to drive around on, and he can at least flog it on the motor without a worry. You can enjoy it on the street and the track, much more flexible with what you choose to do with it etc.

All the cars in this thread go 8.9s to 9.0s just get there different ways, none more right than the other. If you have the ability to jump in it and drive to Sonic you just get to enjoy it that many more times. (i say this like atv has been able to enjoy his car much at all this year breaking oil pans and whatnot)

 

I only went to 9K rpm once or twice as I was lazy on the shift and trying to get used to the car

I went drysump as I had bearing failure after the shop that was tuning the car decided it wanted to try and drive through detonating and popping and banging on the dyno. I wasnt for sure what caused it, but I know the mellings high pressure pump cavitates before 6000 rpm per some local top super stock racers. Being that I had that mellings pump I was a little worried. It was WAY out of my budget for a 4 stage drysump, but I didnt want to lose the motor completely. SO you can guess what I bought.

The way it seems that some people still want the streetability and still go fast, and some just want to go fast. Ive done the street car thing, and I prefer the all out race car. My car is light, is a full race car, and I do drive it very short distances to car shows and such. But it is in NO way a street car.

ATV's car is very impressive for being a full weight car. He chooses to drive it on the street so I see where lower compression and lower octane fuel come in handy. I only run the VP Nitrous fuel (120 octane) whether its on motor or nitrous. But his car and Shiz's car are an exception to the rule. You guys have done an awesome job with the hydraulic rollers and pump gas, but not everyone has nor knows how to do it. No one really knows what goes on behind the scenes to get it right. And that goes for ANYONE.



Its all in what you want, and however you get there is up to you..

My goal for '07 was to run in the upper 8's... DONE.

My goal for '08 is to finally lean on the car and get to the 8.40-8.50 range. Its got the suspension and the power is only a jet change away