double checking does this look right(wiring)
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grounds under the hood are grounded to the under the strut bar my purge noids works so guessing those grounds are good. The heater grounds i used the seat belt bolt to the car. For the window switch and arming switch, i used this ground behind the kick panel of the car (well could that be the issue using the same ground for the window switch and arming switch?)
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ok went out and took off the window switch ground and touched it to one on the outside of the door and still had the same issue. Then i double checked wiring and this is what i have
relay:
red to fuse to power
yellow to switch pannel middle prong
black to fpss
blue to nitrous and fuel noids
Window switch
green: tach
pink: interface blue wire
white: tps
red: not hooked up but had it to the yellow relay wire
Interface:
blue : to window switch pink
brown: fpss
grey: iat
white: rpm
purge:
1 wire from the noid to ground, 1 wire to switch, tapped into the 12v source used for the arming switch. can hear it click on and off
questions i have are can you actually wire a fpss backwards i have top side to the relay bottom side is from the brown interface wire. I used the interface wire to tap the rpm on the computer then tapped that wire for the window switch. maybe my relay top was put on wrong the metal brack on the relay should be on top of what color right now the way mine is red the power is 30 which means it should be on correct
what would cause something to always be on when a switch is off and then when you flip the switch it would turn off. I wired up an empty arming switch and this occured.
also if it helps, power sources i used are
battery for both relays nitrous and bottle heater, 2 seperate lines both with fuse inline, and for the arming switch i used orange one from the cig lighter since i never use that and dont use the radio or anything when racing
relay:
red to fuse to power
yellow to switch pannel middle prong
black to fpss
blue to nitrous and fuel noids
Window switch
green: tach
pink: interface blue wire
white: tps
red: not hooked up but had it to the yellow relay wire
Interface:
blue : to window switch pink
brown: fpss
grey: iat
white: rpm
purge:
1 wire from the noid to ground, 1 wire to switch, tapped into the 12v source used for the arming switch. can hear it click on and off
questions i have are can you actually wire a fpss backwards i have top side to the relay bottom side is from the brown interface wire. I used the interface wire to tap the rpm on the computer then tapped that wire for the window switch. maybe my relay top was put on wrong the metal brack on the relay should be on top of what color right now the way mine is red the power is 30 which means it should be on correct
what would cause something to always be on when a switch is off and then when you flip the switch it would turn off. I wired up an empty arming switch and this occured.
also if it helps, power sources i used are
battery for both relays nitrous and bottle heater, 2 seperate lines both with fuse inline, and for the arming switch i used orange one from the cig lighter since i never use that and dont use the radio or anything when racing
Last edited by Ruckus46Gt; Jan 22, 2008 at 12:16 PM.
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most relays have 5 pins
86 = 12v triger
85 = ground trigger
30 = 12v constant
87a = circuit with pin 30 when 86 and 85 are inactive
87 = circuit w/30 w/86 and 85 are active
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red is 30
blue is 87
black is 85
yellow is 86
just pulled the relay apart and double checked , also it will only fit one way the relay so cant be put on backward
here is a pic of the top
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also took a pic of the switch. I played around with the red wire while the panel was out if i put it on the 12v contant source powering the entire switch the window switch comes on and stays on even when i activate the system, if i put it to the yellow wire coming form the relay on the middle prong (1st power, 3rd ground) it does the normal turn the light on and window switch powered until i arm the system then the light gets brighter and the window swith turns off
Alright Ruck asked me to chime in.
Now maybe the sponcers can shed some light onto the diagrams they have.
Now this HSW interface, what is its purpose? Does this provide a ground to the relay?
Why would you do the circuit this way instead of having the power signal to the relay interrupted? For instance, wire the arming switch in series with the fuel switch, in series with the TPSS, with the interface to the relay, then just ground the other side of the relay coil?
Also something confusing in the diagram is the fact that there is a wire coming from the TPS going to the power on the relay, it tees in the with power coming from the arming switch.
From what it looks like the only thing right now saying wether or not to fire the solenoid valves is the arming switch, and the HSW is not grounding the relay out.
Is there a electrical schematic for the TPS switch and the HSW interface we can take a look at?
Now maybe the sponcers can shed some light onto the diagrams they have.
Now this HSW interface, what is its purpose? Does this provide a ground to the relay?
Why would you do the circuit this way instead of having the power signal to the relay interrupted? For instance, wire the arming switch in series with the fuel switch, in series with the TPSS, with the interface to the relay, then just ground the other side of the relay coil?
Also something confusing in the diagram is the fact that there is a wire coming from the TPS going to the power on the relay, it tees in the with power coming from the arming switch.
From what it looks like the only thing right now saying wether or not to fire the solenoid valves is the arming switch, and the HSW is not grounding the relay out.
Is there a electrical schematic for the TPS switch and the HSW interface we can take a look at?
Ah, never mind, your window switch outputs a 12v, so set the Trigger +/- to "+" and the Trigger Power to off. Have you tried using a relay to connect the RPM window switch to the arming switch, instead of connecting it directly?
Matt
Matt
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Verdad Gallardo How so? Looking at the diagram the arming switch is proving the power to the RPM window/TPS switch in addition to the relay. The RPM window will output a 12v when it hits the RPM settings and what ever the TPS is set to. When it outputs the 12v the Interface will then trigger the relay that controls the solenoid.
Matt
Matt
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key in to acc right before starting, actually did it without the key in also and get the same result, havent started the car and tried it.
how would i do what you are saying the whole +/- to + set up? if i used a relay to connect the rpm window switch the arming switch what kind or relay and what sides would i use number wise 85, 86, 30, 87?)
If you haven't done so give the manual for the Interface a real good reading, the answer to your question is on page 2, along with a picture.
To hook up the RPM to a relay you'll disconnect the wire that goes from the arming switch to the pink wire on the RPM window switch. You will connect that wire (coming from the arming switch) to pin # 86 on a new relay. Pin # 30 to a 12v (battery) and pin #87 to the pink wire on the RPM window/TPS. Pin # 85 to a good ground.
Matt
To hook up the RPM to a relay you'll disconnect the wire that goes from the arming switch to the pink wire on the RPM window switch. You will connect that wire (coming from the arming switch) to pin # 86 on a new relay. Pin # 30 to a 12v (battery) and pin #87 to the pink wire on the RPM window/TPS. Pin # 85 to a good ground.
Matt
key in to acc right before starting, actually did it without the key in also and get the same result, havent started the car and tried it.
how would i do what you are saying the whole +/- to + set up? if i used a relay to connect the rpm window switch the arming switch what kind or relay and what sides would i use number wise 85, 86, 30, 87?)
how would i do what you are saying the whole +/- to + set up? if i used a relay to connect the rpm window switch the arming switch what kind or relay and what sides would i use number wise 85, 86, 30, 87?)
You got it, the only way the Interface can trigger the solenoid(s) is if the conditions on the RPM window/TPS switch are met.
Matt
Matt
Last edited by Matt@HSW; Jan 22, 2008 at 03:05 PM.
There is one in the install manual, it's basically the same one that N.O. posted though. That should be more then enough, what part other then keeping the RPM window switch on is giving you problems?
Matt
Matt
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ok figured it out I never got a document with my switch panel and figured the one they forked to all 3 was the power, however after pulling up nitrous outlets switch panel wiring diagram and comparing it i noticed numbers 1 2 and 3 so pulled the panel and looked at my hsw one and realized it had the same numbers so changed the power from 3 to 1 and the ground from 1 to 3 and now it works fine. Thanks for all the help
ray 2 quick questions havent programed the window switch yet and it reads 1 low or something like that i hold 2 buttons and for my car it would be
step 1 :001 (tapped wire from the computer for rpms)
step 2 : 000 for no lockout
step 3 : 030 for 3k
step 4: 060 for 6k
step 5: 002(tapped tps snensor)
step 6: car turned to *** at idle press button 2 then go to wot see it say 5.0 probely then switch 1 and should see end correct?
also matt from hsw:
those weather packs for the heater i can put one side to the relay other to the ground and same thing on the bottle heater side and the pressure switch correct ? Never used those wire packs before
ray 2 quick questions havent programed the window switch yet and it reads 1 low or something like that i hold 2 buttons and for my car it would be
step 1 :001 (tapped wire from the computer for rpms)
step 2 : 000 for no lockout
step 3 : 030 for 3k
step 4: 060 for 6k
step 5: 002(tapped tps snensor)
step 6: car turned to *** at idle press button 2 then go to wot see it say 5.0 probely then switch 1 and should see end correct?
also matt from hsw:
those weather packs for the heater i can put one side to the relay other to the ground and same thing on the bottle heater side and the pressure switch correct ? Never used those wire packs before
Last edited by Ruckus46Gt; Jan 22, 2008 at 03:50 PM.
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Ok, so I'm going to bring this old thread up. I wired it up just like the diagram Ray posted...
The SPRAY light stays on when wired like this, and the ON light flashes.
The SPRAY light stays on when wired like this, and the ON light flashes.