BMN Window Switch Issues
The other day I posted my dyno results from my HSW kit. On the dyno, my tuner could not get the window switch to activate, so he bypassed it to do the tuning. Me and my buddy finally had some nice weather Saturday and a chance to see what the problem was. Turns out the crappy wire tap we used to tap into the tach signal didn't even cut through and make a connection. So we yanked the tap out, and spliced, soddered, and wrapped the conections together. We did some testing and we were succesfully getting a good tach signal, so we decided to head out and see what she could do.
I have it set to come on at 3000 go off at 6000 and my shift light is set at 6200. Here's the issue, when I first floor it the nitrous hits and you can feel it no problem, and I can feel when it shuts off no problem, but when I shift into the next gear it hits for just a split fraction of a second. I have the switch mounted in plain view and when you are in the range of activation (3000-6000 for me) a green light stays on, but when I shift into the next gear the light just comes on for that split second and you can feel the nitrous hit just that small space of time. It's like a jump and then the green light goes off and no nitrous is spraying.
At first we were able to get a couple of runs in were we could go through two gears but then it would act up. Than it got to the point were it was cutting out in the next gear everytime. And finally it was very sporadic. Sometimes it would spray and then sometimes it would just hit for that split second like I described earlier.
I'm pretty confident that we have a good connection to the tach signal or it wouldn't be working at all and my shift light still works like a charm. The BMN switch has a first gear lock out and I understand how that works, but I have that shut off so I don't think that could be the issue.
If anyone is familiar with the BMN switch than PLEASE help! Any thoughts are appreciated. At this point I'm willing to try anything.
Thanks guys.
I have it set to come on at 3000 go off at 6000 and my shift light is set at 6200. Here's the issue, when I first floor it the nitrous hits and you can feel it no problem, and I can feel when it shuts off no problem, but when I shift into the next gear it hits for just a split fraction of a second. I have the switch mounted in plain view and when you are in the range of activation (3000-6000 for me) a green light stays on, but when I shift into the next gear the light just comes on for that split second and you can feel the nitrous hit just that small space of time. It's like a jump and then the green light goes off and no nitrous is spraying.
At first we were able to get a couple of runs in were we could go through two gears but then it would act up. Than it got to the point were it was cutting out in the next gear everytime. And finally it was very sporadic. Sometimes it would spray and then sometimes it would just hit for that split second like I described earlier.
I'm pretty confident that we have a good connection to the tach signal or it wouldn't be working at all and my shift light still works like a charm. The BMN switch has a first gear lock out and I understand how that works, but I have that shut off so I don't think that could be the issue.
If anyone is familiar with the BMN switch than PLEASE help! Any thoughts are appreciated. At this point I'm willing to try anything.
Thanks guys.
HSW has never let me down yet so I'm sure that we can get it figured out. I'm just keeping my fingers crossed that it's something simple so I don't have to pull it out and replace it with something else. This is one of only two window switches that HSW sells and the other one is overkill for what I need it to do and a little pricey.
I guess if all else fails I'll just yank it and go with an MSD or ZEX switch. I've heard good things about both of those products.
Yeah, I have yet too read anything positive either.
HSW has never let me down yet so I'm sure that we can get it figured out. I'm just keeping my fingers crossed that it's something simple so I don't have to pull it out and replace it with something else. This is one of only two window switches that HSW sells and the other one is overkill for what I need it to do and a little pricey.
I guess if all else fails I'll just yank it and go with an MSD or ZEX switch. I've heard good things about both of those products.
HSW has never let me down yet so I'm sure that we can get it figured out. I'm just keeping my fingers crossed that it's something simple so I don't have to pull it out and replace it with something else. This is one of only two window switches that HSW sells and the other one is overkill for what I need it to do and a little pricey.
I guess if all else fails I'll just yank it and go with an MSD or ZEX switch. I've heard good things about both of those products.
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=194
I have not heard anything bad about it yet.
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I ran into some issues with my BMN switch but it was my fault. I didn't have the WS properly wired to my FPSS. It works perfect now. I would go ahead and talk to Bill @ BMN. He went above and beyond trying to help me out even though it was my fault. Very friendly too.
No. I'm waiting until the weather gets decent and me and my friend are going to go run some more tests, log everything in detail, and contact BMN and see what they say. Hopefully it's something small and I'm just a retard that can't figure it out. I really don't want to pull this thing out, but if I have to the MSD switches look nice.
Hey guys,
I'm having the exact same problem. I've talked to BMN, but I'm quite the newbie when it comes to wiring. The purple wire goes from the window switch under the dash through the firewall, then it's spliced into a black wire going to the FPSS, then back to the relay box under the hood. What happens for me, is when I initially hit the turn on RPM, it kicks in for the whole gear, then when I shift into 2nd/3rd/etc it kicks on for about a second, then turns off. But if I tap the brake and watch the yellow light, light up on the window switch, then floor it again, nitrous will kick in briefly, maybe one second, then light goes off and no nitrous. I have first gear lockout turned off, and it's in 4cyl mode. This is the only thing holding me back from using nitrous to it's full potential. If anyone has suggestions/etc, please post up with suggestions. Bill at BMN said to unhook the purple wire from the relay, then see if that works.... I'm confused at this point. Any suggestions? Keep in mind, this is pretty new to me. Thanks guys.
I'm having the exact same problem. I've talked to BMN, but I'm quite the newbie when it comes to wiring. The purple wire goes from the window switch under the dash through the firewall, then it's spliced into a black wire going to the FPSS, then back to the relay box under the hood. What happens for me, is when I initially hit the turn on RPM, it kicks in for the whole gear, then when I shift into 2nd/3rd/etc it kicks on for about a second, then turns off. But if I tap the brake and watch the yellow light, light up on the window switch, then floor it again, nitrous will kick in briefly, maybe one second, then light goes off and no nitrous. I have first gear lockout turned off, and it's in 4cyl mode. This is the only thing holding me back from using nitrous to it's full potential. If anyone has suggestions/etc, please post up with suggestions. Bill at BMN said to unhook the purple wire from the relay, then see if that works.... I'm confused at this point. Any suggestions? Keep in mind, this is pretty new to me. Thanks guys.
Hey guys,
I'm having the exact same problem. I've talked to BMN, but I'm quite the newbie when it comes to wiring. The purple wire goes from the window switch under the dash through the firewall, then it's spliced into a black wire going to the FPSS, then back to the relay box under the hood. What happens for me, is when I initially hit the turn on RPM, it kicks in for the whole gear, then when I shift into 2nd/3rd/etc it kicks on for about a second, then turns off. But if I tap the brake and watch the yellow light, light up on the window switch, then floor it again, nitrous will kick in briefly, maybe one second, then light goes off and no nitrous. I have first gear lockout turned off, and it's in 4cyl mode. This is the only thing holding me back from using nitrous to it's full potential. If anyone has suggestions/etc, please post up with suggestions. Bill at BMN said to unhook the purple wire from the relay, then see if that works.... I'm confused at this point. Any suggestions? Keep in mind, this is pretty new to me. Thanks guys.
I'm having the exact same problem. I've talked to BMN, but I'm quite the newbie when it comes to wiring. The purple wire goes from the window switch under the dash through the firewall, then it's spliced into a black wire going to the FPSS, then back to the relay box under the hood. What happens for me, is when I initially hit the turn on RPM, it kicks in for the whole gear, then when I shift into 2nd/3rd/etc it kicks on for about a second, then turns off. But if I tap the brake and watch the yellow light, light up on the window switch, then floor it again, nitrous will kick in briefly, maybe one second, then light goes off and no nitrous. I have first gear lockout turned off, and it's in 4cyl mode. This is the only thing holding me back from using nitrous to it's full potential. If anyone has suggestions/etc, please post up with suggestions. Bill at BMN said to unhook the purple wire from the relay, then see if that works.... I'm confused at this point. Any suggestions? Keep in mind, this is pretty new to me. Thanks guys.
definitely post your results/findings. i just got done istalling my hsw kit with bmn ws yesterday. going to get the bottle filled today and test it out. hopefully it works for me. ill let ya'll know
This is a detailed list of what Bill asked me to try, but being the newbie I am, I'm not sure what he's referring to
Originally Posted by BMN
Hi Curtis,
Sorry for the delay, but the email fowarding to my phone jacked up and didn't know until HSW gave me a call.
I have a question. If you unhook the purple wire from the relay and then try to engage it does the green light stay on or go out? To me it sounds like the overload protection on the output (purple) line is kicking in? It could either be a a misplaced wire on the main relay, too many things tied to the ouput line (not very likely), or the main component for the overload protection is failing.
If the green light shows it stays on when you are in the proper RPM range with the wire unhooked then try this next:
Pull the main fuse for the main relay. This will keep the noids from getting power. Hook the purple wire back up to the relay. Bypass you WOT switch. Rev up to a high enough RPM to activate it. You are going to need to note if: They relay clicks "ON", by either sound or feel, and if the green light stays on the whole time while in range, and if the relay clicks "OFF" while the green light is still on.
Check those things and get back to us by email. I will log in a few times a day until I know the foward/phone alert is working properly.
Bill Johnson
Originally Posted by BMN
Hi Curtis,
Sorry for the delay, but the email fowarding to my phone jacked up and didn't know until HSW gave me a call.
I have a question. If you unhook the purple wire from the relay and then try to engage it does the green light stay on or go out? To me it sounds like the overload protection on the output (purple) line is kicking in? It could either be a a misplaced wire on the main relay, too many things tied to the ouput line (not very likely), or the main component for the overload protection is failing.
If the green light shows it stays on when you are in the proper RPM range with the wire unhooked then try this next:
Pull the main fuse for the main relay. This will keep the noids from getting power. Hook the purple wire back up to the relay. Bypass you WOT switch. Rev up to a high enough RPM to activate it. You are going to need to note if: They relay clicks "ON", by either sound or feel, and if the green light stays on the whole time while in range, and if the relay clicks "OFF" while the green light is still on.
Check those things and get back to us by email. I will log in a few times a day until I know the foward/phone alert is working properly.
Bill Johnson
well i tried mine today at first it worked fine running through a gear. then i did a launch and it only kicked on briefly in any gear. i bypassed the window switch and nitrous kicked in, no problem. i will try some of the stuff that bill recommended and see
Dave

