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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 12:01 AM
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Default window switch woes

I am running a single stage ntrous outlet trick window switch. I have it set up on tps. when i set it up instantly i see the tps voltage show up but cant get the switch to spray out of the hole. I have an a4 with a 3k stall. I have the window swith wired at the pcm for the tps voltage. I org had it set a 4.7 (car off full throttle), and spraying 3k-5900. Couldnt get it to spray out of the hole except for 1x. Every other time it his around the 120ft mark. Today after my first run moved the tps voltage down to 4.4 and window switch from 2900-5900. The nitrous hit a little earlier except not out of the hole. I rather not hook up the wot switch but cant figure this out. launch tech is normally stall up to 1600 and go from there, one time i got it to spray out of the hole i had it at 2k, today stalled it up at 2k again and also at 2,200 no diff
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 10:02 AM
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Chris@NitroDaves
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Instead of setting the TPS with the car off you might have to go and take it for a drive. Most of the drive by wire cars have to do it that way in order for it to read 100% correctly.

-Chris
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Ruckus46Gt
I am running a single stage ntrous outlet trick window switch. I have it set up on tps. when i set it up instantly i see the tps voltage show up but cant get the switch to spray out of the hole. I have an a4 with a 3k stall. I have the window swith wired at the pcm for the tps voltage. I org had it set a 4.7 (car off full throttle), and spraying 3k-5900. Couldnt get it to spray out of the hole except for 1x. Every other time it his around the 120ft mark. Today after my first run moved the tps voltage down to 4.4 and window switch from 2900-5900. The nitrous hit a little earlier except not out of the hole. I rather not hook up the wot switch but cant figure this out. launch tech is normally stall up to 1600 and go from there, one time i got it to spray out of the hole i had it at 2k, today stalled it up at 2k again and also at 2,200 no diff
Couple of questions?
Can you see the display from the drivers seat?
What is the read out when you arm it, and when you first deck it?
Even at 4.4 volts that is a realy on the ragged edge of wot voltage, ANY rearward movement of your leg or amp load will change the number.

Try setting it to 4.0-4.2 volts.
Now when you deck it what rpm are you at? 1600? it will take a moment to hit your target rpm activation window.

if you want give me a call to walk through the tech, sometime easier to talk then type.
940-781-5204
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 12:58 PM
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not sure how to check the volts from the car on the switch. Car is in the glove box so can see it. With the car off it reads .7 not touching anything and at full throttle is at 4.7. 4.4 was pretty close to full throttle just gently hit the pedal down to get it up to 4.4. Stalling up the car to 1600 is about 1/4 throttle and then it flashed right to 3k very quickly.
chris would it read lower with the car driving and hitting wot or higher? Cause it activates the nitrous when it see's over the displayed tps volt value correct?

Oh yea when i moved it down to 4.4 and 2900 it hit a little sooner, basicaly right at the end of the 60' (able to pull off a 1.79 instead of a normal 1.82)
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 05:27 PM
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here is how the switch is set up.
step 1 004
step 2 0
step 3 02.9
step 4 05.9
step 5 002
step 6 .7 idle, 4.4 wot
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 09:18 PM
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Programming looks correct.
When you arm the system your read out should show,
0 0 0.
at wot 1 0 0
at wot and low rpm 1 1 0
no wot at low rpm 0 1 0

1 is on
O its off
L is locked out.

You should not need to drive the car if you are getting a good tps reading.
I think your rpms are nto climbing as fast as you may think. Watch the read out will let you know what is going on and when it is happening. If there is anyother delay it could have to do with line length, or maybe other electrical.
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