convince me to stay n20....
I am finishing up my nitrous car now. I had planned on building a turbo car. My car isnt finished yet but I realized I setteled for the bottle. I really wanted a turbo car and went n2o to save some money. With everything involved in my build $38,000.00 Later what was an extra $7-8,000.00. Not saying turbo is the best for everyone but if that is what you really want then dont settle.I will probally run my engine a while and then sell it to build a Turbo LSX.
Or do what Patrick G did. He built a motor with turbo in mind and with out the turbo it made 440/405 and runs on 87 octane. Nearly the numbers in your sig. And you could just spray it til you go the turbo on it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...496&highlight=
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...496&highlight=
Last edited by JonCR96Z; May 1, 2008 at 08:59 PM.
Pretty easy these days to get a 500rwhp motor put together to handle any amount of spray. So, thats my rec, a good built n/a motor designed for the spray. LME has some killer deals for a 1000hp 408 short block for under 4k and a set of l92 heads/intake for under 2k and a cam you'll have an easy 500rwhp motor n/a. Then throw a 300rwhp shot on top when ever you feel the need, and bingo a rocket ship. This combo is very popular these days and yes, many of us are spraying 300rwhp shots on this type of combo. This route is much cheaper. Yea, I seen the carnage in the other thread, did you pin point what let loose?
Robert
By the way, do a DP dry and no need for the additional cost of the standalone fuel, though the cost of a couple fuel system mods, depending on overall hp sought. Much safer, much easier to tune, and cost is much less ect. though I may be biased on the dry thing, or so I have been told, lol. I just can't see any good reason to go wet on the LSx/EFI these days.
Robert
By the way, do a DP dry and no need for the additional cost of the standalone fuel, though the cost of a couple fuel system mods, depending on overall hp sought. Much safer, much easier to tune, and cost is much less ect. though I may be biased on the dry thing, or so I have been told, lol. I just can't see any good reason to go wet on the LSx/EFI these days.
First off, sorry you lost the motor. Now, the thrbo vs nos for anythign under 800 rwhp, there is no which is better, they are the same, or nitrous is better, mainly because when racing, no delay, expense, that type of thing.
If a turbo is a thought down the road, build a motor at 10 to 1 compression, spray it now with what you have, and if you want to turbo it, you can still. Personally I think a turbo setup would run better at 10 to 1 compression and less psi of boost then it would 8.5 and a ton more boost, more compression less lag, that type of thing.
If a turbo is a thought down the road, build a motor at 10 to 1 compression, spray it now with what you have, and if you want to turbo it, you can still. Personally I think a turbo setup would run better at 10 to 1 compression and less psi of boost then it would 8.5 and a ton more boost, more compression less lag, that type of thing.
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i already have tfs heads and a ported 90/90. so with a decent 402 (i want to stay aluminum) it could make some power. and i was thinking a 200-250 shot. ill need a bigger fuel solenoid. sorry robert but im anti dry. and u r anti wet. haha.
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no it wasnt the n20. it is a bad lifter. yes thats right a bad caddy lifter with 2k miles on it. been noisy for the last 500. not only that but the son of a bitch is stuck in the bore-i cant get it past the roller. which leads me to believe the bearings rolled out of it. plunger and snap ring are still in tact. im glad i spent the extra $300 to put in the "bad ***" lifters.

Robert
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Yea, the 402 and aluminum will save about 80lbs on the nose. This extra weight has thrown my launch off, and am still trying to compensate and get the car's balance back. One other thing though, going 402 aluminum compared to a 408 iron is about 1K in $$ IIRC. Anti wet, not really, just changing technology, so I like the dry, and honestly have no issue with someone like yourself making an informed choice based on knowledge and choosing wet. 
Robert

Robert
no it wasnt the n20. it is a bad lifter. yes thats right a bad caddy lifter with 2k miles on it. been noisy for the last 500. not only that but the son of a bitch is stuck in the bore-i cant get it past the roller. which leads me to believe the bearings rolled out of it. plunger and snap ring are still in tact. im glad i spent the extra $300 to put in the "bad ***" lifters. 

So what heads and cam you gonna run with the 402?
Last edited by john563; Mar 2, 2008 at 04:55 PM. Reason: add
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Man, I would be pist!!! Especially $300 for the caddy "bad ***" lifter failed.I dont mean to rub it in. I just could not imagine how I'd feel. I put in ls7 lifters, and always wondered if I should have put in the caddys. Time for a 402 now!!!
So what heads and cam you gonna run with the 402?
So what heads and cam you gonna run with the 402?
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just had 2 more that r stuck. both on number 5. i was able to get one out and the roller fell out in my hand. seriously now im getting pissed. these lifters are crap imo. either that or someone abused the **** out of them in transit.
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