nitrogen pressurization
04-05-2008, 11:04 PM
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nitrogen pressurization quote: Push System
regulator that can control that pressure can get pricey. I have a few at home. Usually in the $200-400 range depeing on brand and specs. I used to just use a regulator but the regulator itself is a flow restriction that hinders recovery time when spraying large shots.
So i switched form the regulator method the a pressure switch.solinoid method that was cheaper and somewhats easier.
It goes like this:
You need a nitrous bottle with a valve that has ports in the nech that are open to the top of the bottle internally. Seperate from the pickup tube. This will aloow nitrous pressure to be deliverd to the top of the liquid and not interfere with the delivery of the nitrous out the pickup tube at the bottom.
If you have one port you will need to Tee it off so that a pressure switch such as the dynotune pressure switch used in theie autmatic bottle heater setups can be used. You can get the switch only from dynotune for about $40. That switch will be open to the pressure in the neck.
You will need a bottle about equal to the size of the nitrous bottle you are running. That will keep you from having to use too high of a practical pressure in the nitrogen bottle to drive an entire nitrous bottle out. in between the nitrogen bottle and the nitrous bottle you need a Dedenbear C02 noid PN 302ABSOV. You can get that from Jegs or summit for about $130. That noid will control the flow of nitrogen from the nitrogen bottle into the nitrous bottle when the pressure gets below the setpoint of the pressure switch.
So...when its all setup you have a nitrogen bottle at 2000 psi. You have a fully serviced nitrous bottle at say 800 psi at 70 degrees. We obviously want more pressure. So You flip the switch sending the power to the pressure switch. The contacts are closed since the pressure in the nitrous bottle is at 800 psi which is below the 1050 psi that you have set your pressure switch to. That sends power to the noid....opening it. Nitrogen flows from the nitrogen bottle to the nitrous bottle building a head pressure above the nitrous. When the pressure in the nitrous bottle reaches 1050 psi the contacts open on the pressure switch removing power from the noid...the noid closes..nitrogen stops flowing. You are now set at 1050 psi and your system is awaiting any pressure drop in the nitrous bottle. As soon as it drops below the pressure switch setting of 1050 +/- approz 25 psi the system will again replenish the nitrous bottle.
It can also be setup to be controlled my the MaximizerII as well in the same manner. quote:
i saw this post and was wondering what happens when all the nitrous is gone and you end up spraying stright nitrogen in the motor or is there a way to prevent that from happening
regulator that can control that pressure can get pricey. I have a few at home. Usually in the $200-400 range depeing on brand and specs. I used to just use a regulator but the regulator itself is a flow restriction that hinders recovery time when spraying large shots.
So i switched form the regulator method the a pressure switch.solinoid method that was cheaper and somewhats easier.
It goes like this:
You need a nitrous bottle with a valve that has ports in the nech that are open to the top of the bottle internally. Seperate from the pickup tube. This will aloow nitrous pressure to be deliverd to the top of the liquid and not interfere with the delivery of the nitrous out the pickup tube at the bottom.
If you have one port you will need to Tee it off so that a pressure switch such as the dynotune pressure switch used in theie autmatic bottle heater setups can be used. You can get the switch only from dynotune for about $40. That switch will be open to the pressure in the neck.
You will need a bottle about equal to the size of the nitrous bottle you are running. That will keep you from having to use too high of a practical pressure in the nitrogen bottle to drive an entire nitrous bottle out. in between the nitrogen bottle and the nitrous bottle you need a Dedenbear C02 noid PN 302ABSOV. You can get that from Jegs or summit for about $130. That noid will control the flow of nitrogen from the nitrogen bottle into the nitrous bottle when the pressure gets below the setpoint of the pressure switch.
So...when its all setup you have a nitrogen bottle at 2000 psi. You have a fully serviced nitrous bottle at say 800 psi at 70 degrees. We obviously want more pressure. So You flip the switch sending the power to the pressure switch. The contacts are closed since the pressure in the nitrous bottle is at 800 psi which is below the 1050 psi that you have set your pressure switch to. That sends power to the noid....opening it. Nitrogen flows from the nitrogen bottle to the nitrous bottle building a head pressure above the nitrous. When the pressure in the nitrous bottle reaches 1050 psi the contacts open on the pressure switch removing power from the noid...the noid closes..nitrogen stops flowing. You are now set at 1050 psi and your system is awaiting any pressure drop in the nitrous bottle. As soon as it drops below the pressure switch setting of 1050 +/- approz 25 psi the system will again replenish the nitrous bottle.
It can also be setup to be controlled my the MaximizerII as well in the same manner. quote:
i saw this post and was wondering what happens when all the nitrous is gone and you end up spraying stright nitrogen in the motor or is there a way to prevent that from happening
04-06-2008, 02:12 AM
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I guess i wrote that.
Youll run rich...very similair to when you spray a wet kit with no nitrous. No biggie at all. Of course you want to swap out your bottle before your that low anyways....but if you do happen to empty it...youll know it because youll be slow as hell and running like ***. But there are no harmfull affects to the motor.
Youll run rich...very similair to when you spray a wet kit with no nitrous. No biggie at all. Of course you want to swap out your bottle before your that low anyways....but if you do happen to empty it...youll know it because youll be slow as hell and running like ***. But there are no harmfull affects to the motor.
