Newbie Wet Kit installed, first details inside
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9 Second Club
iTrader: (31)
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,175
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From: Nashville, TN
Well,
I put a TH350 in my car, but the converter was way too tight. I had a couple of options: re-stall it, by means of a new converter (need a smaller diameter converter than the current 10.5") or spray the car to flash the converter harder. Considering I am posting in the nitrous section, I made the nitrous route decision. My setup is as follows:
-HSW sudden impact wet kit w/ upgraded larger solenoids
-NX heater w/ Dyno tune automatic pressure switch
-Single nozzle w/ jets from 75-200
-Dyno tune master blaster purge with trick dual-purge through nostrils in the hood
-FJO controller fully assembled with relays and entirety in glove box (very very clean setup)
-Dyno tune control center 2 1/16 setup
-Electric bottle pressure gauge
-NX bottle opener
I am setting up my FJO to run 50% ramping to 100% w/in 1.75 seconds starting at 2500rpm and spraying through the shifts.
Here are the problems i ran into:
-Solenoids/fitting were cross threaded when i got it, but HSW customer service went above and beyond to get me some new solenoids. I bought the kit brand new in the box from another member here (still in the HSW box unopened). For whatever reason, the fittings on the nitrous noids were JACKED up bad. We got some upgraded solenoids sent from HSW, and they will allow me to go above the 75-150 the sudden impact kit works off of. We worked again last night and finally got the threads cleaned up on the solenoid. All is well now, and i will probably sell the smaller noids off on here as new/unused. The new fittings are threaded in well with no leaks.
-Master blaster connections blew off twice last night trying to get the thing. That thing has some SERIOUS power. Kind of overkill, but hey, you gotta have fun!
-It was a major PITA to get the FJO mounted like we had envisioned in the glove box. It really paid off though, as it is a CLEAN setup, and it works perfectly. Setting up the FJO to interface with the car and the Dyno-tune controller couldn't have been easier. The hardest part was installing the software on my old laptop, haha.
-I have the stock bellow on my car, and it just does NOT like having the nozzle in it. Anyone have any ideas here short of buying a smooth bellow? I hated those smooth bellows, but i may have to go back to it if I can't get this stock bellow to site correctly.
-my nitrous and fuel lines with the HSW kit were opposite for the lines running to the nozzle from the noids. What I mean is the fuel line needs a long (24") line, and the nitrous line needed a short (12") line. The easy fix here is obviously just run the nitrous line on the fuel line and vise versa. Just looks kind of ugly. I will buy new lines another day. Maybe just replace them with the dual nozzle setup.
Pictures to come tonight!
Tim
The car motor/trans is as follows
-home built forged 347
--LS6 heads 60cc with stock lightweight valves and Manley duals
--Trex Cam
-Mahle Pistons
-Crower Rods
-Fast 90/90
-Air lid setup, but i am about to dump this for a fabricated setup including piping coming from the TA fog lights for "Ram-Air"
-Walboro kit w/ hot wire
-SVO 30's
TH350 full auto valve body
PTC 10.5 3500stall (only stalling to MAYBE 3k on motor, haha)
9" rear with Detroit locker and 4.22’s (I know, need a lot less gear)
3" steel DS
Also, just want to say thanks to Tricked-out-Toy, also known as Tater, haha. Without him, the wiring would be an absolute mess. This dude can REALLY fabricate, and wire with the best of them.
~fastest 7.50 1/8 mile car in TN~ hahahaha
I put a TH350 in my car, but the converter was way too tight. I had a couple of options: re-stall it, by means of a new converter (need a smaller diameter converter than the current 10.5") or spray the car to flash the converter harder. Considering I am posting in the nitrous section, I made the nitrous route decision. My setup is as follows:
-HSW sudden impact wet kit w/ upgraded larger solenoids
-NX heater w/ Dyno tune automatic pressure switch
-Single nozzle w/ jets from 75-200
-Dyno tune master blaster purge with trick dual-purge through nostrils in the hood
-FJO controller fully assembled with relays and entirety in glove box (very very clean setup)
-Dyno tune control center 2 1/16 setup
-Electric bottle pressure gauge
-NX bottle opener
I am setting up my FJO to run 50% ramping to 100% w/in 1.75 seconds starting at 2500rpm and spraying through the shifts.
Here are the problems i ran into:
-Solenoids/fitting were cross threaded when i got it, but HSW customer service went above and beyond to get me some new solenoids. I bought the kit brand new in the box from another member here (still in the HSW box unopened). For whatever reason, the fittings on the nitrous noids were JACKED up bad. We got some upgraded solenoids sent from HSW, and they will allow me to go above the 75-150 the sudden impact kit works off of. We worked again last night and finally got the threads cleaned up on the solenoid. All is well now, and i will probably sell the smaller noids off on here as new/unused. The new fittings are threaded in well with no leaks.
-Master blaster connections blew off twice last night trying to get the thing. That thing has some SERIOUS power. Kind of overkill, but hey, you gotta have fun!
-It was a major PITA to get the FJO mounted like we had envisioned in the glove box. It really paid off though, as it is a CLEAN setup, and it works perfectly. Setting up the FJO to interface with the car and the Dyno-tune controller couldn't have been easier. The hardest part was installing the software on my old laptop, haha.
-I have the stock bellow on my car, and it just does NOT like having the nozzle in it. Anyone have any ideas here short of buying a smooth bellow? I hated those smooth bellows, but i may have to go back to it if I can't get this stock bellow to site correctly.
-my nitrous and fuel lines with the HSW kit were opposite for the lines running to the nozzle from the noids. What I mean is the fuel line needs a long (24") line, and the nitrous line needed a short (12") line. The easy fix here is obviously just run the nitrous line on the fuel line and vise versa. Just looks kind of ugly. I will buy new lines another day. Maybe just replace them with the dual nozzle setup.
Pictures to come tonight!
Tim
The car motor/trans is as follows
-home built forged 347
--LS6 heads 60cc with stock lightweight valves and Manley duals
--Trex Cam
-Mahle Pistons
-Crower Rods
-Fast 90/90
-Air lid setup, but i am about to dump this for a fabricated setup including piping coming from the TA fog lights for "Ram-Air"
-Walboro kit w/ hot wire
-SVO 30's
TH350 full auto valve body
PTC 10.5 3500stall (only stalling to MAYBE 3k on motor, haha)
9" rear with Detroit locker and 4.22’s (I know, need a lot less gear)
3" steel DS
Also, just want to say thanks to Tricked-out-Toy, also known as Tater, haha. Without him, the wiring would be an absolute mess. This dude can REALLY fabricate, and wire with the best of them.
~fastest 7.50 1/8 mile car in TN~ hahahaha
Last edited by tim99ws6; Jun 27, 2008 at 08:30 AM.
Thread Starter
9 Second Club
iTrader: (31)
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,175
Likes: 2
From: Nashville, TN
Thanks for posting the pics Tater!
Thanks for the compliments guys! We finally got it all sorted out last night. All i am waiting on now is a tuner to call me back to get it tuned in for the nitrous. Then it's time to hit the track!
Thanks for the compliments guys! We finally got it all sorted out last night. All i am waiting on now is a tuner to call me back to get it tuned in for the nitrous. Then it's time to hit the track!
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Nice install, really clean!
I need to mention that the fuel line after the noid is longer than the nitrous line. That will make a tendancy toward a lean spike at activation.
I need to mention that the fuel line after the noid is longer than the nitrous line. That will make a tendancy toward a lean spike at activation.
Thread Starter
9 Second Club
iTrader: (31)
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,175
Likes: 2
From: Nashville, TN
Thread Starter
9 Second Club
iTrader: (31)
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,175
Likes: 2
From: Nashville, TN
Here is a car from their own website:
Last edited by tim99ws6; Jun 27, 2008 at 09:29 PM.
That would defeat the purpose of shortening the line from the noid to the nozzle....lol....i would just get some extra lines.














