Hello all I just read through the nitrous FAQ and although Im more confused now than before I have a question, which is safer wet or dry? Ive seen some N2O backfires and they seem to happen on wet kits. What are the pro's and con's of the 2 systems?

 

I'm no expert by any means, I have a wet system. From what I've read and heard most Nitrous backfires occur because the user doesn't have a window switch regulating when the nitrous will kick in. They just have a WOT switch. Without a window switch the nitrous comes on at WOT, which to my understanding isn't good, 3 grand seems to be the standard for activation. If the nitrous comes on at too low an rpm and the car bogs fuel will puddle in the intake causing the backfire(on a wet system).. I have my window switch set for 3 grand through 5800 rpms along with a WOT. I've never had any issues.. I don't know about dry systems... I'm sure someone with way more knowledge, than me, will chime in on this.. Like I said, I'm a relative newbie to nitrous also.. So if I am confused please don't body slam me..lol

 

Ok so with a window switch and an M6. I turn the system on and just driving around it wont spray, but when I hit 3000 RPM itll kick in as long as Im WOT till whatever its set to cut off at, then with the system cut off it dosent spray at all. So I just row gears and with the system on it just sprays and sprays.

 

Right, as long as your WOT and above whatever rpm you select with your window switch the car will spray until your preset shutoff rpm and then come on again after shifting as long as you remain WOT and above your set rpm activation.. I don't know how true it is, but I've also heard it's not good to just cruise with your system on for extended periods. 1000 PSI on the solenoids can cause undo stress over a period of time. I only turn mine on when I plan to spray, I don't just cruise around with it on..

 

Granted I didnt think it would be a good idea just wanted make sure I was thinking along the right lines. So theres none of that slow and the curious stuff needing to push a button, just turn it on and from there the system sprays on its own. Awesome!

 

well, it will only come on at WOT if you have a WOT switch. You can do it with a WOT switch and a push button if you want to. Its all in the accessories you buy really.

 

Well I like the idea of the spray coming on automatically when Im on it above say 3000 and staying on till I say stop, then shifting and it starts all over again. Sounds sexy!

 

I guess I should of said WOT switch in my above posts, made an assumption he'd know I meant WOT switch..

 

I knew what you meant.

 

 

/\/\/\ Ha ha ha...ya I tried search, wasnt my friend. even read the whole nitrous faq. Sorry I asked a question to clarify my confusion over the massive amount of information I ingested in a couple of hours

 

Honestly this is something I dislike. 99silverado5.3 you might just be foolin around, but I think its a genuine problem here. If everyone read the stickys and used search well there wouldnt be a whole lot of new posts and tech would wither and die. Also sometimes there really isnt pertinent info in the search and stickys to a specific question. end rant.

 

Search is a must, but a good new thread is a good way to learn too.
Info on wet kit:

You need new spark plugs:NGK TR6s(for 150pill or less), a good N2O tune with a wideband before doing anything(a/f ratio is good between 11:0 to 11:9 on the hit), a FPSS!!!!!, a racetronix fuel pump kit(at your hp level) or a walbro 255lph pump,a window switch like oifivet said. The N2O hit MUST not hit the rev limiter or its bye bye engine with a backfire. Plus it will save you from a misshift too. Must not hit below 3k rpm too.

Some plp bash about a FPSS, but it saves my engine twice on the juice: it cuts the N2O when not enough fuel pressure so you dont melt your pistons. I was sprayin in fifth and I had a voltage drop because of a dirty alternator; result is the fuel pump wasnt pushing all the fuel needed so the FPSS cut the N2O, saving me from melting the pistons or a nice backfire!! Happens to me twice before I could see the voltage drop. 50$ saved me 4000$+++ cheap insurance. Plus its a breeze to install.

And last of all; you have to retard timing (1° per 50hp is safe) or getting higher octane gas. I have a LS1 timing tuner and its a built-in window switch, timing retard unit and it comes only on the N2O hit. But I finally had a good N2O tune at TTPerformance so I dont have to retard timing even on the 150.

My kit is a sudden impact wet kit from HSW with FPSS/TR6s,racetronix fuel pump kit/hotwire from nitrous outlet and a used LS1timing unit. The 150 hit on top of your car would be badass(I can tell you ). Gotta pay to spray. But I got some incredible deals from our beloved sponsors(especially on my HSW kit).

Then, I will tell you that I read nitrous thread for a full month non-stop(or so) before knowing all the basics to do it right myself at the right price. Good luck to you and remember: TR6s,retard timing or N2O tune,window switch,FPSS,bottle heater for constant hits(best psi is 950-1000) and A/f tune!!

As for the safer between dry/wet OP, both are dangerous if not done properly but wet has more chance to ignite a fire if you have a backfire..Dry are more for the tuner kind plp. I like how easy wet is. I prefer wet because it works for me and I dont need to tune it. Plus I didnt want to invest on new injectors(450$+). I paid my timing tuner and fuel pump with that.

Good luck with your build and all the sponsors here are nice and they will provide you all the advices you need when its time to purchase.

sorry for the long post

 

Gap Your Plugs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I have been doing what you said you did, is popping my head in the Nitrous Section to determine what I want to do. Good info and that sounds about the safest way to run a wet kit. That sounds like great advise.

 

This is how my plate setup from Nitro Daves is setup.. I haven't had any issues with it.. Great write up Johnnystock!!!

 

gotta forget something

TR6s come pregap to 38 I think and the gap is fine from 34-38...but I'm not sure. Just ask when you buy the plugs. Most plp say 35.

 

i think your also safe with a dry kit...only bad with dry is you have to rely on your maf and your injectors to add the fuel when you spray the car,but if you get a dynotune A/F shut off switch you have nothing to worry about...if your car goes too lean from the spray it will shut the nitrous off which is awesome...the only bad is dry doesnt gain as much hp as the wet kits..the dry is cheaper and i think a smart way to go for guys that have never used nitrous,as long as you buy your safety accessories..then if you decide you wanna step up to wet you can buy a dry/to wet kit,which doesnt cost too much...but this wet vs. dry is a forever going topic and everyone thinks different about it...

 

Lately, I was reading dry hit harder than wet. And some plp switch from wet to dry than dry to wet. Whatever..
The thing is it'll work either way, so take the one that suits your needs best. For me, I prefer was wet.

 

wet is safer, no wait dry is safer, no, maybe it was wet, hell or was it dry. ah screw it, go 2 stage, one wet one dry

one is no safer then the other, they both have there goods and bads. its N2O, its not if its going to bite you, its when