First N20 BACKFIRE.
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From: SPRINGFIELD MISSOURI
the deal was the motor was fine after the run with the backfire. I took and drove it around and loaded it and unloaded off the trailer. Put new plugs it today and took it down the street Hammered it once and it was fine. then drove slow and hammered and soon as it shifted into 2nd is when it started making a knocking ticking noise from the head i BABYED IT BACK then pulled it in the garage got out pop the hood and you couldnt hardly hear it at a idle but I rev it and it got louder.
the rockers look fine and the springs all look good.
should I put the rockers back on and do the test or just pull the head and see where the problem is.
the oil pressure is real good.
could it be smashed lifter?
the rockers look fine and the springs all look good.
should I put the rockers back on and do the test or just pull the head and see where the problem is.
the oil pressure is real good.
could it be smashed lifter?
i dont see any results of your compression test. that will tell u right away what shape your bottom end is in. how bad of a noise are we talking about? how loud and does it increase with rpm?
Thread Starter
9 Second Club
iTrader: (34)
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: SPRINGFIELD MISSOURI
ok could not fine anything on the leak down # was leaking down to a 160 the rest on that side where 200 so I pulled the head. Because I heard a knocking noise at a ideal you could hadley hear it. But when you rev the car sounded like someone was pinging a hammer almost like a rocker was off. So I pulled the head the rockers are fine the valves all look good. The pistons and the walls all look good too. All I see is a small chunk out of the piston top edge on #7 and the head at the spot has a tink chunk out of it probally where the plug end went. So any ideas please feel free. Should I go get the heads checked.
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Sucks to hear, but live and learn....
check the plugs after every run, especially when the tuneup isn't 100% known to be good!
Start with a colder plug then you need, you're not gonna hurt stuff running too cold a plug, too hot a plug and bad **** can happen!
When you get it back together, get some #9 plugs to start with. Run them ONCE, pull every one and inspect them!
Every time you make any kind of tune change, you must do the same, one run on a new set and check them!
I'd also ditch that pump gas in the tank, you're throwing an unknown in there, the stuff could have been bad and you would never know it. For the cost of the fuel vs what it could cost, run the best stuff you can. I run torco 118 nos fuel, and when the supply of that is gone (from older sealed drums from before they had a problem) if I can not get the same 118 that I know is good, I will go to a strict regiment of C16, unless I can get C23 for a reasonable cost.
The fuel, and colder plugs will help save alot of parts if things aren't right, you start trying to go too hot/low an octane, and you can hurt alot of stuff.
check the plugs after every run, especially when the tuneup isn't 100% known to be good!
Start with a colder plug then you need, you're not gonna hurt stuff running too cold a plug, too hot a plug and bad **** can happen!
When you get it back together, get some #9 plugs to start with. Run them ONCE, pull every one and inspect them!
Every time you make any kind of tune change, you must do the same, one run on a new set and check them!
I'd also ditch that pump gas in the tank, you're throwing an unknown in there, the stuff could have been bad and you would never know it. For the cost of the fuel vs what it could cost, run the best stuff you can. I run torco 118 nos fuel, and when the supply of that is gone (from older sealed drums from before they had a problem) if I can not get the same 118 that I know is good, I will go to a strict regiment of C16, unless I can get C23 for a reasonable cost.
The fuel, and colder plugs will help save alot of parts if things aren't right, you start trying to go too hot/low an octane, and you can hurt alot of stuff.