What To Get?
Generally
Colder Plugs, should be in the sticky's HSW compliled a excellent list, generally NKG TR-6 gapped at .035 are a popular choice.
Window Switch most all the kits say do not spray below 3000 RPM, to control this a window switch is recommended, I favor the Trick Performance digital (Nitrous Outlet or Dynotune), but the choice is yours.
FPSS some like the safety of a Fuel Pressure Safety Switch, some consider it a waste of time. If it is set correctly say 45 psi, if the fuel pressure drops below 45 PSI, it will kill the nitrous system. LS1/6 are 58 PSI systems, depending on the size hit and delivery, you may see a 10 PSI drop and then the pump recovers (or not). Going lean is what kills the engine.
AFR Lean safety switch (wideband/narrow band) a Wideband Lean Safety switch is more accurate than using the factory narrowband sensors. This of course incurrs the additional cost of a wideband, but is IMHO worth the money.
Depending on where you live you may consider a heater, to get the most consistancy out of your system the bottle pressure needs to be 950-1000 psi, you can control this with an automatic heater, and a purge should the pressure get to high.
WOT Most kits come with a WOT and some window switches have them as well. this ensures the kit will only function at WOT...
Most systems are wired so that the system is active when three things occur:
1. armed (switch from Kit),
2. the engine is at WOT (switch from kit or Window Switch),
3. and the RPM is within the defined limits of the window switch.
The safety's would add the first three plus
4. Fuel Pressure within limits
5. AFR Safety would add AFR within limits (say 11-12)
Last edited by Beer99C5; Aug 21, 2008 at 08:19 AM.
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