Incorrect. robert the difference in cyl has nothing to do with dry or wet but the actual desgin of the system. a little nugget for you . You may need 40 jets to find 8 that actually flow even. hell even the stainless flow different with the same number on them. IF i was doing dry DP ( we have 1) I would definatly want individual cyl correction or have someone flow the kit ot get it perfect. even then minute differences in everything make it still better ot have individual cyl correction.


Remember you have not tried everything either and learn new things every day..... We have a dual dry dp on atv's car with a 375 hit on it.... soon to be 450.

some times you try to be the dry king when you haven't even been fast yet...

 

There are lean cyl with a carb intake still they just so happen to be the 4 corners( longer runners")

 

we had to take 3 degrees out of #7, 2 out of #8, 1 out of 5 1 out of 3 1 out of 1 and some fuel aqdjustments. just to start.... mainly duel to front fed intake style but theres a few other changes we made.

 

Now I never said that flowing of the intake was not needed, that's a given correct, and mine is flowed. I stated the variation. Good jets won't require 40, the standard cheapos may though. The ones I have all flowed .239 or .240. So out of the box much closer. Now maybe for all the combos on the wet DP you may need more jets? I certainly have not tried everything, but have totally dedicated two cars 100% to every style Dry i could afford to do. I never claimed to know it all and learn stuff all the time, the point is and has always been when it comes to the dry hits, so many are not on top of the tech, and spread constantly incorrect info. Now in the 375rwhp Dry DP range yes, you guys need to do what you can. So far i have not seen the four corners out of whack to any degree, but now that you claim this i will certainly be aiming my magnifying glass a little closer and see if we can see the same. Points taken with due respect and admiration; at least you based your contentions on some actual experience. Haven't been fast yet, lol, if i really was worried about going fast i would dump the piece of ****, for drag racing, vette/M12/IIRS, lol, and get a f-body/auto/solid axle. My current goal is to join the handful that have seen the 9.xx realm in this style car. You know the thing that gets me, why is no one worried about individual cylinder tuning when ramming a 200/300 hit down the throat of the LSx, i will tell ya why, cause it really matters not. Only when we get into the mega big hits, lets say over 300, that this type of tuning becomes a reality? That's what started this, dave only claims in Dry DP threads, that this type of tuning is needed, i say under a 300 and a flowed kit, a general a/f reading like 98% do will be fine and in the end it will be closer than down the throat style. Find the thread on the poll I did on individual cylinder tuning, seems no one at that time was doing any on this site that saw the thread, a limited need IMO for dry.
Robert

Edit: I think clarification is needed here. All DPs are flowed correct, that's a given. My contention and what I have been alluding to is this, a flowed wet dp and a flowed dry dp, then check plugs, EGTs, per cyl WB and the dry will have closer a/f and temps, per cyl compared to the wet. that's the point, and it's been proven numerous times. Why is this, well it is the nature of the fuel delivery of the wet hit and mech jetting, maybe fuel pressure variations? something is causing this? Then guys that have only experiance with wet hits belive the dry to vary per cylinder like the wet dp, not true. Even the variation in the wet dp that has been flowed normally causes no addition per cyl tuning that the average guy runs.

 

Hey is anyone going to fess up on removing my other post?
Robert