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Tuning an LS1 is WEIRD!

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Old May 31, 2005 | 02:41 PM
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Default Tuning an LS1 is WEIRD!

I know I've posted about some tuning issues recently, but this one baffles me. I had been playing with the tune to get it to idle, thought I had it pretty good. Then I go racing friday, and by the end of the night, the car is surging real bad again. It even died a couple times. Now I can't start it without having my foot on the gas. WTF?!
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Old May 31, 2005 | 03:39 PM
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I have a carb I'll sell you You're right about them being a royal pain. You A4 guys really are having your patience tried that's for sure. I'd like to spend another Sunday trying to get it right just for my own experience though ? If you're having to give it throttle, might it be your "cranking ve" that needs some tweaking ? Also have you hooked the W/B up yet ?
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Old May 31, 2005 | 04:16 PM
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I'd be willing to swap you a carbed 327 for that thing in your car.
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Old May 31, 2005 | 05:20 PM
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You guys are a lot of help. Got a 750 dbl pumper laying around?

No wide band yet Bill, maybe this weekend. I've been a little busy.

I'm thinking about putting my TB blade with the big hole in it back on. The car seemed to idle better that way. At least the damn PCM can't readjust that. As for cranking VE, I thought that table gets disabled at 200rpm. Actually, I think it's the O2s going south. That would explain many of my problems.
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Old May 31, 2005 | 05:54 PM
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Ellis says he might have some help for you mark...he'll give you a call after work...
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Old May 31, 2005 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
You guys are a lot of help. Got a 750 dbl pumper laying around?

No wide band yet Bill, maybe this weekend. I've been a little busy.

I'm thinking about putting my TB blade with the big hole in it back on. The car seemed to idle better that way. At least the damn PCM can't readjust that. As for cranking VE, I thought that table gets disabled at 200rpm. Actually, I think it's the O2s going south. That would explain many of my problems.
What did you do to make it idle? What cam/heads are on the car? How big of a stall?
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 12:23 AM
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Hey Mark lets get together tomorrow night for some playing. If you could when you start it in the morning set up a log file. we need G/ps, IAC, and temp minimum

Shoot me a call in the morning
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 08:07 AM
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Start it in the morning....that's funny! You think I drive it in the rain? I'll call you later.
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 08:16 AM
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Well, I replaced the O2 sensors last night & that seemed to help. But they were VERY BLACK from running too rich, so I started thinking.....BAD thing. I looked at the log files & the old ones were running around 200-400mV at idle. The 'new ones' were up around 500-700mV. And they run in the 880-900mV range @ WOT.

Anyway, so I decided to swap out the stock TB blade with my original that has the big hole drilled in it to get more air. On the test drives last night the car seemed fine. Started & idled, no surging, didn't die when I pulled it into gear, cold, hot, in between. It does have more of the 'cruise affect', but I'll take that over surging & dying anyday. The big test will come at the drag strip Friday. If it's still running right after that, I'll call it good.
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 10:20 AM
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What o2's did you go with mark? see i know mine are shot but what do i care, I hardly spend any time in the rpm range where they matter But when i do a log they read about 200 all the time, but the wideband shows great afr.

If you want i will make you a great deal on a used 6 speed
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 10:55 AM
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I threw in my rear O2s to see what changed. From what I've found out, if your O2s are reading 200mV like mine were, they are shot. Bosch & Denso make some now that run hotter & heat up quicker for richer applications (i.e. cammed cars) But they cost $60+ each. At WOT where your car lives, O2s don't matter much. But for city driving & idling, they are critical.....
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