clutch bleeding
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clutch bleeding did anyone do that? I did the drill mod then put everything back on. But my clutch stays inside doesn't pull itself back, is it normal? I guess I couldn't bled the air
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From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
On the driver side of the car...in about the 11 0-clock position where the transmission bolts to the bell housing....
You will find a bleeder for the clutch.
OH the JOY of bleeding a LS1 clutch! I usually bleed the Master and line on the bench then once again before i hook them up in the car. I also bench bleed the Slave/Throw out bearing.
99% of the time if you just hook them up after they have been bleed they work perfect
Then there are the other times.
So did you have the whole Master and line out of the car? IF so then try this. It will take two people.
Dissconnect the line at the trans and take the heat shields off so you can pull it back up. The heat shields are a MUST BTW!!
Now up in the Engine bay take a small screw driver and GENTLY push in on the end of the line. There is a spring loaded disk there..if you ruin it you are done. Now while you are holding it in have some one push down on the clutch..YES the peddal will stay on the floor. ALSO DO NOT be facing the end of the line! at any time Brake fluid will be coming out!
After they push the peddal and it is on the floor let the end of the line close by letting the disk seat while you pull the screw driver back out.
Next have who ever is helping you pull the peddal back up and let it sitt for a moment.
Repeat as needed. NEVER push hard on the clutch peddal with the line closed! I am also assuming you removed the line to do the drill mod? If you did not you will need a clutch line release tool to remove the line. I got the last one at Shucks for $5.
The LS1 can be a true PITA on this part, Good luck!
You will find a bleeder for the clutch.
OH the JOY of bleeding a LS1 clutch! I usually bleed the Master and line on the bench then once again before i hook them up in the car. I also bench bleed the Slave/Throw out bearing.
99% of the time if you just hook them up after they have been bleed they work perfect
Then there are the other times.
So did you have the whole Master and line out of the car? IF so then try this. It will take two people.
Dissconnect the line at the trans and take the heat shields off so you can pull it back up. The heat shields are a MUST BTW!!
Now up in the Engine bay take a small screw driver and GENTLY push in on the end of the line. There is a spring loaded disk there..if you ruin it you are done. Now while you are holding it in have some one push down on the clutch..YES the peddal will stay on the floor. ALSO DO NOT be facing the end of the line! at any time Brake fluid will be coming out!
After they push the peddal and it is on the floor let the end of the line close by letting the disk seat while you pull the screw driver back out.
Next have who ever is helping you pull the peddal back up and let it sitt for a moment.
Repeat as needed. NEVER push hard on the clutch peddal with the line closed! I am also assuming you removed the line to do the drill mod? If you did not you will need a clutch line release tool to remove the line. I got the last one at Shucks for $5.
The LS1 can be a true PITA on this part, Good luck!
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ok so i bleed the system before i hooked it up to the tranny and then i bleed it alot also after i hooked it up to the tranny and it still feels really soft. not hard at all. no air is coming out when i bleed it just fluid. so i dont understand.
Hey man........Its Jon! I met you a few days ago at PR. I have the black C5. Well I just bought a Mcleod master cylinder and I'm having my tranny pulled and looked at. I'm also gonna have my clutch sent back to centerforce in Arizona so they can inspect it. If the clutch is messed up, I'm gonna buy a Mcleod clutch. I think you might want to look into something like that. The Mcleod clutch "KIT" comes with the adjustable master cylinder. But I think its around $1000 for the Kit. Either way, I saw this guy named Jason (nice Z28) with this set up, he also was running drag slicks. Believe it or not, he couldn't get the slicks to grip. That clutch setup was grabbing like a ****! It grabbed HARD!! 
I bought my master cylinder for $330, and if I need a new clutch I think the Mcleod clutch only is around $750 or so. Anyway, hope all goes well with your project and I hope to see you again. PM me if you have any questions....Oh and Ellis did the installation of Jason's clutch. From what I saw........I'd say he did a damn fine job!!!
I bought my master cylinder for $330, and if I need a new clutch I think the Mcleod clutch only is around $750 or so. Anyway, hope all goes well with your project and I hope to see you again. PM me if you have any questions....Oh and Ellis did the installation of Jason's clutch. From what I saw........I'd say he did a damn fine job!!! Thread Starter
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From: Bellevue, WA.
Originally Posted by 00Vette
Oh and Ellis did the installation of Jason's clutch. From what I saw........I'd say he did a damn fine job!!!
I searched for mcleod adjustable also but its too expensive, I wish it wasn't. Btw I realized one my o2 sensor extensions cooked that's why my car was running so slow other than clutch. Damn I have lots of work to do
