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Header install Question........

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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 10:28 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 99C5Coupe
When I installed headers on my 99C5 I found some small holes in the frame on the passenger side near the bellhousing. I used zip-ties, one through the holes and another thru that one too hold the 02 wire. I would put the first zip tie in the frame holes before you put the header in. The drivers side has a brake line which you can zip-tie to. The driver side header was easy on mine after I jacked the motor up 1/2", use a 2x4 with a bottle jack as described in LS1HOWTO.com. On mine the passenger side dropped in after unbolting the starter and prying the air-condtioning line out of the way. Good Luck! My headers are Dynatech Supermax.
Thanks for the advice. I'll write that down and check my car out when I have it on the lift.

But what do you suggest about the wires hanging off the X-pipe? The 02 sensor will be plugged into the X-pipe, but the wire will be dangling because the 02 sims will be in the outlet for the 02 sensor wire.........That is the only part that still confuses me with this installation
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 99C5Coupe
When I installed headers on my 99C5 I found some small holes in the frame on the passenger side near the bellhousing. I used zip-ties, one through the holes and another thru that one too hold the 02 wire. I would put the first zip tie in the frame holes before you put the header in. The drivers side has a brake line which you can zip-tie to. The driver side header was easy on mine after I jacked the motor up 1/2", use a 2x4 with a bottle jack as described in LS1HOWTO.com. On mine the passenger side dropped in after unbolting the starter and prying the air-condtioning line out of the way. Good Luck! My headers are Dynatech Supermax.
Thanks for the advice. I'll write that down and check my car out when I have it on the lift.

But what do you suggest about the wires hanging off the X-pipe? The 02 sensor will be plugged into the X-pipe, but the wire will be dangling because the 02 sims will be in the outlet for the 02 sensor wire.........That is the only part that still confuses me with this installation
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 10:38 PM
  #23  
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YOU DO NOT NEED THE SIMS Sell them!
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 93TAWicked1
YOU DO NOT NEED THE SIMS Sell them!
If I don't use the sims, do I plug the wire part of the 02 sensors into the plug that goes to the computer (or wherever it goes)? That would aleviate the dangling wire issue I'm stumped on...........
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 10:52 PM
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I don't follow you really... you have 4 O2's a pair of front ones and pair of rear ones. You are going to use the adapter and use the stock rear 02's and plug them into the front 02 wires that go to the computer, those go into the headers. The rear 02 wires that come from the computer you just leave unhooked. (just make sure they are out of the way so they don't burn on anything.

Without programing I would drive around for a day and maybe get an 02 code once takes 10 seconds to clear it, I could do it while driving. Or just leave it as it won't hurt anything. When you get it programmed they will delete that code it takes like 3 seconds. So you really don't need those SIM's I'd sell them to somebody who doesn't plan on getting there car programed.
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 00Vette
Thanks for the advice. I'll write that down and check my car out when I have it on the lift.

But what do you suggest about the wires hanging off the X-pipe? The 02 sensor will be plugged into the X-pipe, but the wire will be dangling because the 02 sims will be in the outlet for the 02 sensor wire.........That is the only part that still confuses me with this installation
My rear 02 sensors aren't in the x-pipe, they are in the interim tube (between the cat and the x-pipe) so the wire wasn't all that long. What brand of header do you have?
93TAWICKED1 is correct about editing the rear 02 sensors out. Only problem I could see with that is when you do the emission test, if you are required to. That may not even be a problem if they just check for codes .

Last edited by 99C5Coupe; Sep 22, 2005 at 11:03 PM.
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 93TAWicked1
The rear 02 wires that come from the computer you just leave unhooked. (just make sure they are out of the way so they don't burn on anything.

That was exactly what I was looking for. It didn't make sense to me to just leave them unhooked. Now that I've heard it verbatim from someones mouth, I feel at ease.

I just ordered the sims today. I'll call back tommorrow and cancel the order. Hopefully they haven't already sent them out.

How do you clear the codes with out a programmer?
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 99C5Coupe
My rear 02 sensors aren't in the x-pipe, they are in the interim tube (between the cat and the x-pipe) so the wire wasn't all that long. What brand of header do you have?

They are LG headers. Take a close look at the attached photos on the thread called "feels like christmas...." . When I peiced the parts together for the photo, I put the X-pipe upside down, but you can still see the two 02 sensor holes on it........
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 11:04 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 00Vette
That was exactly what I was looking for. It didn't make sense to me to just leave them unhooked. Now that I've heard it verbatim from someones mouth, I feel at ease.

I just ordered the sims today. I'll call back tommorrow and cancel the order. Hopefully they haven't already sent them out.

How do you clear the codes with out a programmer?
There is a sequence to get the DIC to show the codes you have to hold one button down and another 4 times. Then you hit another button and it will go into manual mode and you can look at the codes one at a time. Hit the reset button when it shows the code (I think its a 0161 and 0162) and it goes away for awhile. I have to be sitting in the car to know the exact buttons kinda like dialing a well known phone number. If you do a search in the corvette forum or z06 forum it has it documented. If you have a problem I'll go down into the garage and do it and write the steps down.
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 93TAWicked1
There is a sequence to get the DIC to show the codes you have to hold one button down and another 4 times. Then you hit another button and it will go into manual mode and you can look at the codes one at a time. Hit the reset button when it shows the code (I think its a 0161 and 0162) and it goes away for awhile. I have to be sitting in the car to know the exact buttons kinda like dialing a well known phone number. If you do a search in the corvette forum or z06 forum it has it documented. If you have a problem I'll go down into the garage and do it and write the steps down.

I'll go search for it after the first time it happens. Thanks again for all your help......

Jon
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 11:19 PM
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Ok I looked at the pic., I don't think you will have a problem with the wires, they don''t look to be that far back. When you install them I believe you won't have the problem you are thinking.
To check the codes, put the key in the on position, hold the options button and press the fuel button four times, the codes will scroll and then will stop and be in manual mode. to scroll in manual mode press the options button to scroll forward. You can erase the codes for each section by pressing reset, while in manual mode.
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 99C5Coupe
Ok I looked at the pic., I don't think you will have a problem with the wires, they don''t look to be that far back. When you install them I believe you won't have the problem you are thinking.
To check the codes, put the key in the on position, hold the options button and press the fuel button four times, the codes will scroll and then will stop and be in manual mode. to scroll in manual mode press the options button to scroll forward. You can erase the codes for each section by pressing reset, while in manual mode.
Thanks, I'm printing this out and putting it in my Vette file....................
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Old Sep 23, 2005 | 01:10 AM
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Thought of several other things that may be of help. After you remove your existing exhaust manifolds, clean out the bolt holes in the block with a 8mm x 1.25 tap and use anti-seize on the bolts. Don't over tighten them, they should be similar to a spark plug . I wasn't able to get my torque wrench on all of them. If you have a swivel gear wrench, this is when it's gold.
On the passenger side, after you get the header in position, tighten the starter motor bolts before bolting the header up.
Don't forget to put the zip-ties in the frame BEFORE the headers.
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Old Sep 23, 2005 | 01:42 AM
  #34  
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I don't know if I'd use anti seize on header bolts but thats just my opinion. clean them out and be VERY VERY careful not to cross thread them if you can't hold the header up perfect and the bolt doesn't start going in REAL easy get a friend to hold them up.

Also cut the bottom part of the outside bolt holes on the gasket. That way you can put the outside bolts in about 1/2 then put slide the gasket in. Holding the gasket\header up and trying to get the bolts in sucks.

DO use anti seize on the sparkplugs but that goes without saying.

You want the header bolts snug but remember your going into aluminum you don't want to torque down on it.

Yes the 10mm gear wrend and different length 1/4 drive 10mm sockets and extentions are your friends.

Its actually a really easy job, if you unhook the steering rack I don't think I had to jack up the motor....

Sorry to keep spouting off things are just coming back to me...
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Old Sep 23, 2005 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 93TAWicked1
I don't know if I'd use anti seize on header bolts but thats just my opinion. clean them out and be VERY VERY careful not to cross thread them if you can't hold the header up perfect and the bolt doesn't start going in REAL easy get a friend to hold them up.

Also cut the bottom part of the outside bolt holes on the gasket. That way you can put the outside bolts in about 1/2 then put slide the gasket in. Holding the gasket\header up and trying to get the bolts in sucks.

DO use anti seize on the sparkplugs but that goes without saying.

You want the header bolts snug but remember your going into aluminum you don't want to torque down on it.

Yes the 10mm gear wrend and different length 1/4 drive 10mm sockets and extentions are your friends.

Its actually a really easy job, if you unhook the steering rack I don't think I had to jack up the motor....

Sorry to keep spouting off things are just coming back to me...

Keep it coming..........I'm soaking it up.
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