Header install Question........
But what do you suggest about the wires hanging off the X-pipe? The 02 sensor will be plugged into the X-pipe, but the wire will be dangling because the 02 sims will be in the outlet for the 02 sensor wire.........That is the only part that still confuses me with this installation
But what do you suggest about the wires hanging off the X-pipe? The 02 sensor will be plugged into the X-pipe, but the wire will be dangling because the 02 sims will be in the outlet for the 02 sensor wire.........That is the only part that still confuses me with this installation
Sell them!Without programing I would drive around for a day and maybe get an 02 code once takes 10 seconds to clear it, I could do it while driving. Or just leave it as it won't hurt anything. When you get it programmed they will delete that code it takes like 3 seconds. So you really don't need those SIM's I'd sell them to somebody who doesn't plan on getting there car programed.
But what do you suggest about the wires hanging off the X-pipe? The 02 sensor will be plugged into the X-pipe, but the wire will be dangling because the 02 sims will be in the outlet for the 02 sensor wire.........That is the only part that still confuses me with this installation
93TAWICKED1 is correct about editing the rear 02 sensors out. Only problem I could see with that is when you do the emission test, if you are required to. That may not even be a problem if they just check for codes .
Last edited by 99C5Coupe; Sep 22, 2005 at 11:03 PM.
That was exactly what I was looking for. It didn't make sense to me to just leave them unhooked. Now that I've heard it verbatim from someones mouth, I feel at ease.
I just ordered the sims today. I'll call back tommorrow and cancel the order. Hopefully they haven't already sent them out.
How do you clear the codes with out a programmer?
They are LG headers. Take a close look at the attached photos on the thread called "feels like christmas...." . When I peiced the parts together for the photo, I put the X-pipe upside down, but you can still see the two 02 sensor holes on it........
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I just ordered the sims today. I'll call back tommorrow and cancel the order. Hopefully they haven't already sent them out.
How do you clear the codes with out a programmer?
I'll go search for it after the first time it happens. Thanks again for all your help......
Jon
To check the codes, put the key in the on position, hold the options button and press the fuel button four times, the codes will scroll and then will stop and be in manual mode. to scroll in manual mode press the options button to scroll forward. You can erase the codes for each section by pressing reset, while in manual mode.
To check the codes, put the key in the on position, hold the options button and press the fuel button four times, the codes will scroll and then will stop and be in manual mode. to scroll in manual mode press the options button to scroll forward. You can erase the codes for each section by pressing reset, while in manual mode.
On the passenger side, after you get the header in position, tighten the starter motor bolts before bolting the header up.
Don't forget to put the zip-ties in the frame BEFORE the headers.
Also cut the bottom part of the outside bolt holes on the gasket. That way you can put the outside bolts in about 1/2 then put slide the gasket in. Holding the gasket\header up and trying to get the bolts in sucks.
DO use anti seize on the sparkplugs but that goes without saying.
You want the header bolts snug but remember your going into aluminum you don't want to torque down on it.
Yes the 10mm gear wrend and different length 1/4 drive 10mm sockets and extentions are your friends.
Its actually a really easy job, if you unhook the steering rack I don't think I had to jack up the motor....
Sorry to keep spouting off things are just coming back to me...
Also cut the bottom part of the outside bolt holes on the gasket. That way you can put the outside bolts in about 1/2 then put slide the gasket in. Holding the gasket\header up and trying to get the bolts in sucks.
DO use anti seize on the sparkplugs but that goes without saying.
You want the header bolts snug but remember your going into aluminum you don't want to torque down on it.
Yes the 10mm gear wrend and different length 1/4 drive 10mm sockets and extentions are your friends.
Its actually a really easy job, if you unhook the steering rack I don't think I had to jack up the motor....
Sorry to keep spouting off things are just coming back to me...
Keep it coming..........I'm soaking it up.


