What's next?
What's next? I've had this car for about a month and it was bone stock when I got it. I thought it was pretty quick for stock but that's not good enough 
I've done in this order...
Lid, shifter, LS6 Intake, Ported TB, Catback, Cam, Offroad Y, Harlan Shiftlight.
Every mod that has been done made quite a difference and now all put together the car feels COMPLETELY different.
I have new wheels, subframes and 4.11's on order....
I do want to keep it a daily driver for the mostpart. I do have a backup rig because I know that toys do get broken from time to time.
I don't want to go FI.
What's next? 100 shot?
I've done in this order...
Lid, shifter, LS6 Intake, Ported TB, Catback, Cam, Offroad Y, Harlan Shiftlight.
Every mod that has been done made quite a difference and now all put together the car feels COMPLETELY different.
I have new wheels, subframes and 4.11's on order....
I do want to keep it a daily driver for the mostpart. I do have a backup rig because I know that toys do get broken from time to time.
I don't want to go FI.
What's next? 100 shot?
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From: Lynnwood, WA (North of Seattle)
I would definitely look at a new read end (9" or Dana 60 would be my recommendations for a manual car) and then heads as well. A Cold Air Kit can be good as well (IMO).
You said you have a catback & offroad Y but it doesn't say if you have long tubes or stock manifolds.......if you haven't already, the time is now for long tubes. Before the read end and heads.
Also, what are your plans for the car? Drag racing, autocrossing, just daily driving with the occasional romp on the gas pedal, etc? Because once you get all the engine stuff done (or before), you will want to make sure your suspension is up to par for whatever your choice is.
And then if you wanna add some giggle juice, I say go for it.
You said you have a catback & offroad Y but it doesn't say if you have long tubes or stock manifolds.......if you haven't already, the time is now for long tubes. Before the read end and heads.
Also, what are your plans for the car? Drag racing, autocrossing, just daily driving with the occasional romp on the gas pedal, etc? Because once you get all the engine stuff done (or before), you will want to make sure your suspension is up to par for whatever your choice is.
And then if you wanna add some giggle juice, I say go for it.
Originally Posted by firehawk618
I've had this car for about a month and it was bone stock when I got it. I thought it was pretty quick for stock but that's not good enough
I've done in this order...
Lid, shifter, LS6 Intake, Ported TB, Catback, Cam, Offroad Y, Harlan Shiftlight.
Every mod that has been done made quite a difference and now all put together the car feels COMPLETELY different.
I have new wheels, subframes and 4.11's on order....
I do want to keep it a daily driver for the mostpart. I do have a backup rig because I know that toys do get broken from time to time.
I don't want to go FI.
What's next? 100 shot?
I've done in this order...
Lid, shifter, LS6 Intake, Ported TB, Catback, Cam, Offroad Y, Harlan Shiftlight.
Every mod that has been done made quite a difference and now all put together the car feels COMPLETELY different.
I have new wheels, subframes and 4.11's on order....
I do want to keep it a daily driver for the mostpart. I do have a backup rig because I know that toys do get broken from time to time.
I don't want to go FI.
What's next? 100 shot?
Start saving for a rearend, the 10 bolt is the achilles heal of the car. This is especially true if you ever spend time at the 1/4 mi. with sticky tires.
Is it a 6sp or Auto? You'll probably need a better clutch or a stall pretty soon.
Suspension would be a nice upgrade, LCA's, torqure arm, springs/shocks, adj PHR.....
Mike
Niners have a bigger R&P, which some will argue means stronger (and I agree). The niner is also considerably lighter than a 60.
Throw a locker in there and some Moser or other, aftermarket higher spline shafts, and then find your next week point.
Throw a locker in there and some Moser or other, aftermarket higher spline shafts, and then find your next week point.
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Originally Posted by V8TJ
Niners have a bigger R&P, which some will argue means stronger (and I agree). The niner is also considerably lighter than a 60.
Throw a locker in there and some Moser or other, aftermarket higher spline shafts, and then find your next week point.
Throw a locker in there and some Moser or other, aftermarket higher spline shafts, and then find your next week point.
You are right about the weight. The Dana weighs about 70 lbs more.
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Correct the ring gear is bigger, in dia, than the 9" gear. I guess I didnt pick my words very carefully. Look at the depth of the teeth, and the thickness of the 9" ring gear. Then look at the pinion and the contact patch it makes with the ring gear on both.
For the weight savings of the 9", it isnt any weaker than the 60, and when you stuff each one with the top of the line 35 splie shafts, etc. and with deeper contact between the R&P along with the thickness, I'd have to say, IMHO, that the 9" would be the better choice.
That and the ease of switching out 3rds, hands down a better option. If you really want to throw some $$$ into a rear axle, there are so many really nice aftermarket housings that can be had for pretty cheap and then built up as one wants.
You can get a really nice housng from spidertrax, center with tubes for $399. Then throw down for the "good" stuff to stuff it with.
For the weight savings of the 9", it isnt any weaker than the 60, and when you stuff each one with the top of the line 35 splie shafts, etc. and with deeper contact between the R&P along with the thickness, I'd have to say, IMHO, that the 9" would be the better choice.
That and the ease of switching out 3rds, hands down a better option. If you really want to throw some $$$ into a rear axle, there are so many really nice aftermarket housings that can be had for pretty cheap and then built up as one wants.
You can get a really nice housng from spidertrax, center with tubes for $399. Then throw down for the "good" stuff to stuff it with.
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Certainly if you are going to add a 100 shot, you WILL need to think about your rear end. I run a 9" & it seems to hold up fine. Ellis runs a 12 bolt, and he hasn't broken it....yet. But you have a 6 sp, so the stress will be greater.
Another thing to consider if you plan to do it yourself, you can buy a 9" setup for your car from Moser or Strange. So they are almost plug-n-play. You will have to do some things like clearancing the floor for a 9". But they come with the correct spring perches & torque arm mounts.
Another thing to consider if you plan to do it yourself, you can buy a 9" setup for your car from Moser or Strange. So they are almost plug-n-play. You will have to do some things like clearancing the floor for a 9". But they come with the correct spring perches & torque arm mounts.
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From: Ft lewis,Ft sill and thats all i hope.Katy texas
check the for sale section for a rear i just got a killer deal imo.... strange 12 bolt,4:33 gears,33 spline,lca brackets welded on, extra 4:10 gear set,bmr extreme sway bar all for 2600 shipped!!!!!!! there are some 9"s for sale for pretty good price
I think with that car it would be hard not to do heads because its a relatively easy install, but I would say shocks and springs. If you have the money Koni SA and Strano springs or if not Bilstiens and strano's.. Maybe a 35mm front sway bar too.
Believe it or not this will get you WHOLE different car, it will drive better and stop better and feel much more solid. In fact I think if I had a stock car to start over again I'd probably start there after installing the Lid
Believe it or not this will get you WHOLE different car, it will drive better and stop better and feel much more solid. In fact I think if I had a stock car to start over again I'd probably start there after installing the Lid
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Originally Posted by V8TJ
Correct the ring gear is bigger, in dia, than the 9" gear. I guess I didnt pick my words very carefully. Look at the depth of the teeth, and the thickness of the 9" ring gear. Then look at the pinion and the contact patch it makes with the ring gear on both.
<snip>
For the weight savings of the 9", it isnt any weaker than the 60, and when you stuff each one with the top of the line 35 splie shafts, etc. and with deeper contact between the R&P along with the thickness, I'd have to say, IMHO, that the 9" would be the better choice.
That and the ease of switching out 3rds, hands down a better option. If you really want to throw some $$$ into a rear axle, there are so many really nice aftermarket housings that can be had for pretty cheap and then built up as one wants.
...
<snip>
For the weight savings of the 9", it isnt any weaker than the 60, and when you stuff each one with the top of the line 35 splie shafts, etc. and with deeper contact between the R&P along with the thickness, I'd have to say, IMHO, that the 9" would be the better choice.
That and the ease of switching out 3rds, hands down a better option. If you really want to throw some $$$ into a rear axle, there are so many really nice aftermarket housings that can be had for pretty cheap and then built up as one wants.
...
You will spend a lot more $$ making the 9" as strong as the Dana is stock.
The tooth depth you talk about is actually a disadvantage. With the deep teeth (course), only 1 tooth is in contact at any given time. The shallower depth (fine) allows a shorter area to be in contact with less leverage. The another disadvantage of the 9" is the pinion offset from center. This makes them quiet, but gives up a couple of % of efficiency over the 12 bolt or the Dana. That's why Mark Williams is offering a carrier to use 12 Bolt gears in a 9" housing.
Changing carriers is a a real advantage, but not cheap either.
Originally Posted by NWDragRacer
You will spend a lot more $$ making the 9" as strong as the Dana is stock.
The tooth depth you talk about is actually a disadvantage. With the deep teeth (course), only 1 tooth is in contact at any given time. The shallower depth (fine) allows a shorter area to be in contact with less leverage. The another disadvantage of the 9" is the pinion offset from center. This makes them quiet, but gives up a couple of % of efficiency over the 12 bolt or the Dana. That's why Mark Williams is offering a carrier to use 12 Bolt gears in a 9" housing.
Changing carriers is a a real advantage, but not cheap either.
The tooth depth you talk about is actually a disadvantage. With the deep teeth (course), only 1 tooth is in contact at any given time. The shallower depth (fine) allows a shorter area to be in contact with less leverage. The another disadvantage of the 9" is the pinion offset from center. This makes them quiet, but gives up a couple of % of efficiency over the 12 bolt or the Dana. That's why Mark Williams is offering a carrier to use 12 Bolt gears in a 9" housing.
Changing carriers is a a real advantage, but not cheap either.
Ya there are so many things you can do to create "your" perfect rear end. I come from more of a off road background, the niner is used for clearance and strength. Most that build them and have run a few different rear ends, say they would run the nine for clearance and strength.
I've heard views from both sides on the strengths, 60 vs 9, and have talked to people that swear their choice (60 or 9) is stronger. I myself go with things I've read and seen first hand...
In the end, it comes down to how deep your pocketbook is and what you want out of the rear end.