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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 09:16 PM
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Anyone on here one of them guys? I want to put a steel beam in my garage & remove the 6x6 wood post that is dead center in the garage.

I have a double car garage door with a 6x12 beam above it.

I have a 6x12 Lam beam that runs in about 3/4 of the way from the house out to the garage door. The post is near the end of it. Above that (overhanging) is a small storage area, the outside walls of the 2nd story are above or inside the post.

I want to put a steel beam under the Lam beam with screw jacks on each end & remove the post so I can open both car doors.

Anyone have knowledge / experience or know someone reputable?

I used to be a sheet rocker, so I know enough about construction to think it's doable. But I'm no expert & I do NOT want to F*#k the house up.....
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 09:57 PM
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Just put your beam in before you remove your old wooden one, You should be fine. And also when you put your new one in Put a Gussit in there. I think I spelt that right.
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
Anyone on here one of them guys? I want to put a steel beam in my garage & remove the 6x6 wood post that is dead center in the garage.

I have a double car garage door with a 6x12 beam above it.

I have a 6x12 Lam beam that runs in about 3/4 of the way from the house out to the garage door. The post is near the end of it. Above that (overhanging) is a small storage area, the outside walls of the 2nd story are above or inside the post.

I want to put a steel beam under the Lam beam with screw jacks on each end & remove the post so I can open both car doors.

Anyone have knowledge / experience or know someone reputable?

I used to be a sheet rocker, so I know enough about construction to think it's doable. But I'm no expert & I do NOT want to F*#k the house up.....
Can you take a picture? The problem may be that the area where you want to move the weight to, won't support the load. If you were to take a look under the concrete where your post is now, you'd likely find a support pad or at least an area where the concrete is thicker and renforced. If you spread the load to the edges, it may not be able to hold it up.

The area under the post in my shop is 4'x4' and 2' thick and has about 50' of extra steel in it.
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 11:39 PM
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Going along with what NW is saying, if you put in a steel Beam, you can always put in a Foundation plate. Say a 2' x 2' peice, weld the bottom to your Beam, and then on all four corners sink it in to the concrete with some Lagging bolts.
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 07:10 AM
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Good point Don. And good suggestion Lane.
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Old Dec 8, 2007 | 10:28 PM
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If you figure it out let me know how you did it. I'd love to do the same here.

If it helps Mark, I do have my original prints from when my house was built. I don't know if it would show the footing but it might.
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 12:47 PM
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Mark, I highly recommend that you sketch what it is that you want to do and have a structural engineer look at it. If approved then go get a permit and submit the sketch with the structural engineers approval. It will be money well spent and protect you if something happens. If you go off and do this without following this procedure you are seriously at risk and your insurance will be null and void for structural issues. Yes, I am in construction.
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 02:56 PM
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True - if your garage catches on fire (fire bad!) and parts of the house are damaged but you didn't pull the permits or get the structure signed off, you could be really screwed.
True too if the roof falls in and your cars are in it, insurance *may* not cover it because you used steel and didn't get a sign off from a structural engineer.

Our state at its finest........ pppppppfffffffffffftttttttttt
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 03:08 PM
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Excellent point Eric. Probably doubles the cost, or triples it.....
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 03:12 PM
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Mark, you at least live in an area where you have access to the county who will help you out - King Co you are screwed.

Start with the Sno county office closest to you. A friend built her home up there by going to their office with her construction plans and they helped her out for free the entire build process.
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by GEARHED
Mark, you at least live in an area where you have access to the county who will help you out - King Co you are screwed.

Start with the Sno county office closest to you. A friend built her home up there by going to their office with her construction plans and they helped her out for free the entire build process.
Actually I am going through the permitting process for an addition and I did goto snohomish county for the permits. I was told that since i'm in the city limits of Marysville that I need to goto them.

Marysville does their own permitting.
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 11:56 AM
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Just buy your wife a different house with a nice barn on the property that you can convert to a garage.
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by VIKING
Just buy your wife a different house with a nice barn on the property that you can convert to a garage.
ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 11:37 PM
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Mark, I highly recommend that you sketch what it is that you want to do and have a structural engineer look at it.
Mark, I agree this is your best bet. You'll need to account for the added load at the end of the steel beam and how this gets transferred to the foundation. As long the engineer has a way to make it work, I would just do it, document it with pictures and skip the hassle with the county. If there is ever an issue, you can always demostrate how it was accomplished. I do custom home design work as my "paid hobby" and always use an engineer to verify structural code compliance.
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