Paint Expert Help Please
Paint Expert Help Please I have a 2006 Corvette that I had stripes painted on. The paint shop cleared over the stripes and just the stripes. They told me that they would be able to smooth out the outside edges of the stripes so there wasn't a step between the colors. After wet sanding and buffing there is still a step between the colors. Due to the fact that the clear is dry and cured, would it be safe bury the stripes under more clear? I don't want to have problems with cracking or flaking. Has anyone done this?
Whichever panel has stripe on it will need to be scotchbrited with a grey pad and recleared. 2 or 3 coats should be good enough to wetsand and polish nice and flat once it's all dry.
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I would wetsand the thecurrent clear to level it as much as possible if you want to add more clear, wetsand the panels 12-18" from the stripes. when you re-spray the clear, Sherwin williams (and others), sell a blending agent that acually melts the new clear when flashed into the old exisiting clear to prevent the halo effect you normally get when trying to clear just a portion of a panel. let me know if you need the PN# for the blending agent I can dig it out for you. it works VERY well.
But the thing to understand.........simply piling on more clear isnt going to hide the lines, if you can feel it when you spray you will feel it when its dry, you ma have to sand/spray several coats to smooth the transitions. If you pile TOO much clear on, you will get solvent pop(fish eyes in the finish that appear several days after you spray) and the finish will look worse than when you started so be careful!
But the thing to understand.........simply piling on more clear isnt going to hide the lines, if you can feel it when you spray you will feel it when its dry, you ma have to sand/spray several coats to smooth the transitions. If you pile TOO much clear on, you will get solvent pop(fish eyes in the finish that appear several days after you spray) and the finish will look worse than when you started so be careful!
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On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
From: Knoxville, TN.
just have the shop or who ever paints it again to just sand it down with 800 or 1000 grit sand paper to level the paint lines down. sand the rest of the hood with 800 or 1000 also and put 2 more coats of clear on it sand and buff it and enjoy. no need to try and burn the clear in on a 2006 vette(half *** fix).
I would wetsand the thecurrent clear to level it as much as possible if you want to add more clear, wetsand the panels 12-18" from the stripes. when you re-spray the clear, Sherwin williams (and others), sell a blending agent that acually melts the new clear when flashed into the old exisiting clear to prevent the halo effect you normally get when trying to clear just a portion of a panel. let me know if you need the PN# for the blending agent I can dig it out for you. it works VERY well.
But the thing to understand.........simply piling on more clear isnt going to hide the lines, if you can feel it when you spray you will feel it when its dry, you ma have to sand/spray several coats to smooth the transitions. If you pile TOO much clear on, you will get solvent pop(fish eyes in the finish that appear several days after you spray) and the finish will look worse than when you started so be careful!
But the thing to understand.........simply piling on more clear isnt going to hide the lines, if you can feel it when you spray you will feel it when its dry, you ma have to sand/spray several coats to smooth the transitions. If you pile TOO much clear on, you will get solvent pop(fish eyes in the finish that appear several days after you spray) and the finish will look worse than when you started so be careful!
i just have a few comments on this and by no means am i trying to be an *******. but i dont care who makes what blending agents they suck. nothing should be blend into exsisting clear especially if you are looking for quality in my opinion. you might not get the halo right away but give it 8 months to a year and its going to be there eventually and its going to have to be re-done or buffed back in depending on how good of a job you do. and yes your right by piling more clear on your still going to feel the line but thats what hes asking. if he piles more clear on can he block the line out. the answer is yes. if you dont have enoughclear your going to burn right through where the exsisting line was. basically you want to wetsand the clear down as flat as possible without going through the exsisting clear. then clear over it by putting 3 coats probablly at most. to prevent solvent pop dont rush the flash times inbetween coats or before baking because thats exactly how you get it and same thing with fish eye but thats usually by some kind of suface contaminants or not wiping the silicone remover off enough before painting or something along those lines. if its done right there should be no cracking or peeling.
The shop will be clearing the the whole panel, on all the panels. I'm waiting for them to quote me a price.
As it turns out the shop I've been working with doesn't want to wetsand and add more clear. They are afraid that the new clear won't adhere to whats already there. I guess I will have to find another shop. Anyone know of one in the NW burbs of Chicago?
Thats bs!!! They just dont want to do it. It dont necessarily have to be wet sanded. just sand it down with 800 dont burn through and re clear. Two good wet coats should do the job.
i just have a few comments on this and by no means am i trying to be an *******. but i dont care who makes what blending agents they suck. nothing should be blend into exsisting clear especially if you are looking for quality in my opinion. you might not get the halo right away but give it 8 months to a year and its going to be there eventually and its going to have to be re-done or buffed back in depending on how good of a job you do. and yes your right by piling more clear on your still going to feel the line but thats what hes asking. if he piles more clear on can he block the line out. the answer is yes. if you dont have enoughclear your going to burn right through where the exsisting line was. basically you want to wetsand the clear down as flat as possible without going through the exsisting clear. then clear over it by putting 3 coats probablly at most. to prevent solvent pop dont rush the flash times inbetween coats or before baking because thats exactly how you get it and same thing with fish eye but thats usually by some kind of suface contaminants or not wiping the silicone remover off enough before painting or something along those lines. if its done right there should be no cracking or peeling.
This is the perfect answer and imo the best way to do it. And what kind of half *** hack would try and do a blend with the clear like that..... and on a 2006 Vette at that. That shop is scarred for some odd reason to reclear the whole pannels, **** what do they think they are doing on blend only pannels, ******* tards
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
From: Knoxville, TN.
This is the perfect answer and imo the best way to do it. And what kind of half *** hack would try and do a blend with the clear like that..... and on a 2006 Vette at that. That shop is scarred for some odd reason to reclear the whole pannels, **** what do they think they are doing on blend only pannels, ******* tards
+1 what he said.
^^ so what its just going to be a bigger job. do you have a garage to do the prep work because i can only use the shop saturdays? if tis prepped then all we have to do is use the booth to shoot the car and it would make things easier. call me soon we'll get something worked out. im looking forward to this job.