tals7 
Clearcoat question
Clearcoat question Not sure what I'm doing wrong. But after paint has dried, whenever I touch the piece, I leave fingerprint marks/scratches all over. Sometimes they will buff out easily. Other times it's a real pain in the butt. Is there someone who can give me a hint on how I'm applying the clearcoat incorrectly?
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 399
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From: se mich(pluto)
tals7 dose not sound like application prob .sounds like wrong chemical combo.1.wrong or bad hardner 2.wrong temp reducer or even not fully cured .need more info like type/brand of paint and your aplication procedure.let me know i will try to help
First, I sand down the metal piece.
Then I put high-temp primer. Then sand that down.
Then I apply the high-temp engine paint.
After a couple of hours, I apply the clear coat.
After a few hours of drying, I bolt the piece back onto the car.
This seem nice and dandy. But many, 3 days later, I'll try wipe down the piece with a microfiber towel, while tow towel doesn't do anything, if I happen to rub my finger along the piece, it leaves like, scratches in the clear coat.
Then I put high-temp primer. Then sand that down.
Then I apply the high-temp engine paint.
After a couple of hours, I apply the clear coat.
After a few hours of drying, I bolt the piece back onto the car.
This seem nice and dandy. But many, 3 days later, I'll try wipe down the piece with a microfiber towel, while tow towel doesn't do anything, if I happen to rub my finger along the piece, it leaves like, scratches in the clear coat.
I wonder if it has something to do w/ the fact that you're trying to clear high temp engine paint. I've never used that stuff, but I don't think it's supposed to be cleared. In your step by step you said you sanded down the metal piece, but then you say you're doing the lower airbox shroud and the lid. Those are plastic last I checked.
If all your doing is plastic, I'd switch over to a regular Dupli-Color Lacquer paint (rattle cans are fine). They have TONS of color choices at your local auto parts store. They won't stand up to engine temps, but on the air box you won't have to worry about that.
Then follow these steps.
- scuff plastic w/ 360
- 3 coats of primer, 5-10 minutes between coats, let set 30 minutes after 3rd coat
- scuff primer with 360 (lightly)
- 3 coats of color, 5-10 minutes between coats, let set 30 minutes after 3rd coat
- 3-5 coats of clear, 5-10 minutes between coats
- let the clear set for 24 hours
- wetsand w/ 1500 - 2000 until uniformly dull / cloudy
- polish out w/ rubbing compund, working from rough cut to fine cut
- mirror finish
If all your doing is plastic, I'd switch over to a regular Dupli-Color Lacquer paint (rattle cans are fine). They have TONS of color choices at your local auto parts store. They won't stand up to engine temps, but on the air box you won't have to worry about that.
Then follow these steps.
- scuff plastic w/ 360
- 3 coats of primer, 5-10 minutes between coats, let set 30 minutes after 3rd coat
- scuff primer with 360 (lightly)
- 3 coats of color, 5-10 minutes between coats, let set 30 minutes after 3rd coat
- 3-5 coats of clear, 5-10 minutes between coats
- let the clear set for 24 hours
- wetsand w/ 1500 - 2000 until uniformly dull / cloudy
- polish out w/ rubbing compund, working from rough cut to fine cut
- mirror finish
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The spray can clear is not very durable. It doesn't take a catalyst and its not going to hold up as well as a true automotive clear. If you do decide to sand and buff the duplicolor make sure that you put on 6-7 coats and sand lightly and be careful when you polish. That clear isn't going to be very hard no matter how long you let it dry.
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Verdad Gallardo The spray can clear is not very durable. It doesn't take a catalyst and its not going to hold up as well as a true automotive clear. If you do decide to sand and buff the duplicolor make sure that you put on 6-7 coats and sand lightly and be careful when you polish. That clear isn't going to be very hard no matter how long you let it dry.
