sand blasting engine bay?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
sand blasting engine bay? im a complete rookie when it comes to paint and body work. my 2000 camaro has minor rust spots, not rot, throughout various nooks and crannies, and since im pulling the motor, i think its the best time to address from the steering wheel forward. im thinking maybe get a small sandblaster and go to town........with the k member and front suspension out, most of it will be easily accessible, may remove the fenders and fascia to get to it all......im thinking sandblast it all and find a decent spray can to paint it all. my concerns are this is being done in a regular 2 car garage attached to my house......not a ton of space. will i need a lot of space to pull this off? maybe get a drop cloth and make a little booth on one half? i considered dustless but i dont know if it would be worth paying someone to come do it, when i can find a small blaster on craigslist, and then sell it when im done for a small loss........how messy do you think just sandblasting the front half of my car will be? is it worth paying someone who does dustless just for the clean up aspect alone?
if your not stripping the whole engine bay, just rusty spots get a spot blaster, they work very well.
https://www.harborfreight.com/21-oz-...gun-95793.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/21-oz-...gun-95793.html
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
if your not stripping the whole engine bay, just rusty spots get a spot blaster, they work very well.
https://www.harborfreight.com/21-oz-...gun-95793.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/21-oz-...gun-95793.html
Unless your factory paint is in really bad shape its never a good idea to strip to bare metal. Anytime you go to metal you have to start over with some kind of etching primer followed by a building primer so it sticks and looks smooth. Factory paint is already plenty "stuck" to the metal because it was baked on at the factory and makes the great surface for new paint to bite into. Scuff with a red scotch brite pad and shoot.
Don't do anything if your plan is to use "spray cans" as you say. Seriously if your not going to get paint guns and spray it with some proper 2k epoxy primer then follow with base, clear then you are going to do more harm than good.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
theres nothing from a can that can look good for 10+ years with good prep? i dont need it to look perfect just good is fine with me.
Last edited by Floorman279; Dec 17, 2018 at 06:01 AM. Reason: .....
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote
If you are just trying to keep the rust at bay I have touched up rust spots with POR-15. It is black (it comes in silver too I suppose), it is applied with a brush, just clean the rust, paint right over the rust. It will seal the rust and it works. I don't think you are talking about a show car here, you are just trying to contain the rust from spreading. You could rattle can over the POR-15 if you wanted it to be the same color and it will look ok for quite a while.
I have spot sandblasted... it makes a mess, sand does get into everything, and if you don't properly prep/prime you will make things worse.
I have spot sandblasted... it makes a mess, sand does get into everything, and if you don't properly prep/prime you will make things worse.
Edit: You can order it online ( I haven't used this company)
http://www.66autocolor.com/Auto-Touc...mixedpaint.htm
Last edited by LLLosingit; Dec 19, 2018 at 06:47 AM. Reason: speeling error lol
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Santa Maria, Calif.
Back when I swapped my engine I used POR-15 Chassis Coat. I cleaned the rust areas with a wire brush in my drill along with a Dremel tool for the real tight spots. I wouldn't use spray paint unless it was a satin black epoxy as a top coat over POR-15 which I have done and still looks good after over five years. I like finishes which are almost impervious to oil and solvents and spray enamels don't do it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
everyone here is saying to brush it on. i dont mind doing that but spraying will be a little easier. they make por 15 in an aerosol, what is so wrong with using the aerosol vs the brush on? i feel like spray along the radiator support and all those nooks and crannies will look much better with a can. also would a top coat be necessary with por 15? it says it has a rating of 400.....i feel like with ceramic headers under hood temps could get close to 400
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
so i just realized this is what i want to use after i scuff up the engine bay which doesnt come in a spray, assuming this is where you guys were getting at.
https://www.por15.com/Rust-Preventive-Coating_c_11.html
but this is what i would spray over top
https://www.por15.com/TOP-COAT_p_102.html
since this isn't show quality is there anything wrong with this plan?
remove front fascia, and all those other pieces that unbolt. rough up everything, wire wheel any rust spots. engine bay and frame rails use rust preventative coating, since this can easily be brushed on in these areas. then spray with the top coat.
as far as the rad support area, no need to brush on the rust preventative, just spray with the top coat after scuffing and cleaning ....
https://www.por15.com/Rust-Preventive-Coating_c_11.html
but this is what i would spray over top
https://www.por15.com/TOP-COAT_p_102.html
since this isn't show quality is there anything wrong with this plan?
remove front fascia, and all those other pieces that unbolt. rough up everything, wire wheel any rust spots. engine bay and frame rails use rust preventative coating, since this can easily be brushed on in these areas. then spray with the top coat.
as far as the rad support area, no need to brush on the rust preventative, just spray with the top coat after scuffing and cleaning ....
Last edited by Floorman279; Dec 21, 2018 at 07:56 PM. Reason: ......
Yes, this is what I suggested. If you haven't used POR-15 it is easy to brush on and is self-leveling, meaning it doesn't look like you brushed it on. It dries hard as a rock. Just apply on top of rust after you have prepped. It really likes to adhere to rust. You can use any top coat spray can. I've never tried the POR-15 brand, I imagine they sell a top coat because they can.
On a Feiro we painted the engine cradle with POR-15 and sprayed with high heat VHT and it has been 5 years at it still looks the same. We like that high heat paint cause the stuff dries almost instantly and looks and durability seem to be similar.
On a Feiro we painted the engine cradle with POR-15 and sprayed with high heat VHT and it has been 5 years at it still looks the same. We like that high heat paint cause the stuff dries almost instantly and looks and durability seem to be similar.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
