Battery Relocation
also 4 gauge or 6 gauge and 100 amp fuses is not nearly large enough wire to be doing this mod imho.
I would be using 2 or 0, 00 if it was my car, and while I like the idea of fusing it, the starter can draw a ton of current.
Ryan
I would be using 2 or 0, 00 if it was my car, and while I like the idea of fusing it, the starter can draw a ton of current.
Ryan
4 gauge is perfectly fine for mine and ive had it done for 3 months with no problems at all. i actually just used my 4 gauge stereo power wire that was already ran throught he car.
where you put you fuses?
thanks
thanks
buy a battery tray (got mine from summit for $38), power wire, ground wires. i kept my stock cables in place so i can move the battery back if i need to. i just attached a power wire to the stock positive cable with a nut/bolt, and ran the wire to the trunk where the battery now is. i attached a ground cable to the negative cable up front, and grounded it to the frame (engine ground). i grounded the battery in the back to the frame. thats pretty much the idea. if you want, you can make some kind of cover to hide the wires up front.
its a great mod to do tho with weight off the front, and looks so much better w/ the open space.
its a great mod to do tho with weight off the front, and looks so much better w/ the open space.
Kyles2000z, I've been wanting to do the battery relocation since I got my T/A in January, but I didn't know it could be just that easy! Thanks for the inspiration! I have one question about your setup tho: What did you use to cover the connections up front (ie shrink tube, electrical tape). I can't get the pics here at work, so if it's shown in them, I'll need a description anyway.
BMR Sales, how 'bout a battery relocation kit? With the wire and bracket included at a price that would rival someone buying a $30 bracket from somewhere and the wire seperately! My $.02
Swat
BMR Sales, how 'bout a battery relocation kit? With the wire and bracket included at a price that would rival someone buying a $30 bracket from somewhere and the wire seperately! My $.02
Swat
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Verdad Gallardo nah i dont have anymore lexan left to cut any out. it was super easy to do, all i did was make a cardboard template. just lay it down and make some marks, cut a little, and keep gonig until you get the fit you want. then i traced that out on lexan, cut it with my dremel, and primed/painted it.
I just bought the battery relocation kit thru EBay for 80 dolllars and using 2 GA. I am looking for this small box of they two positive seperate nuts for coolant relays, headlights and oil cooler relay. One other for starter.. Where I can get that box? Chevy dealers?
Thanks
Thanks
Here's the start..
Did the wiring under the Hood. I used some 6ga Wire from an Amp Kit. It's got an In-line Fuse, I'm going to put a 100A Fuse in it when I'm done. This actually comes in handy too..I don't have to disconnect the Battery to do work, just pop out the Fuse..
Did the wiring under the Hood. I used some 6ga Wire from an Amp Kit. It's got an In-line Fuse, I'm going to put a 100A Fuse in it when I'm done. This actually comes in handy too..I don't have to disconnect the Battery to do work, just pop out the Fuse..
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 21,019
Likes: 893
From: The Beach...
Haven't tried it yet.. for NHRA I know you have to have a switch, but I'm not running any NHRA Competitions. Mine is secured with the top piece of metal, The Battery has to be secured from moving to my knowledge.
I made this to hook cables to in the front.
Heres the 200A fuse on neg. cable. I used the rear seat belt bolt.
And the battery with my old fuse setup
I also have a front term. block & a fuse block for sale. Dale
Heres the 200A fuse on neg. cable. I used the rear seat belt bolt.
And the battery with my old fuse setup
I also have a front term. block & a fuse block for sale. Dale
