Crank Position Sensor Damage
Crank Position Sensor Damage I went for short test drive after getting my swap done. A small cap I have used to plug a heater hose bleed burst releasing coolant into the engine bay. The cap was directly above the portion of the harness the CPS branches off of.
After resolving the heater hose cap issue I started the car for another test drive. Right away something did not sound right. The car was idling rougher than normal. Within a minute the idle slowing deteriorated, and the motor would not rev without severe missing. Eventually it died and now refuses to start.
After pulling back the harness loom I found a good amount of moisture near my solder/heat shrink joints on the CPS wires.
I am am almost 100% convinced the CPS sensor itself has been damaged/shorted from the moisture. Can anyone confirm if this is a possibility, and is there any way to confirm it is bad before I purchase a new one?
edit: The PCM is not registering a CPS fault code. However, this could be a result of me clearing the codes just as the car started for the final time (mistake).
After resolving the heater hose cap issue I started the car for another test drive. Right away something did not sound right. The car was idling rougher than normal. Within a minute the idle slowing deteriorated, and the motor would not rev without severe missing. Eventually it died and now refuses to start.
After pulling back the harness loom I found a good amount of moisture near my solder/heat shrink joints on the CPS wires.
I am am almost 100% convinced the CPS sensor itself has been damaged/shorted from the moisture. Can anyone confirm if this is a possibility, and is there any way to confirm it is bad before I purchase a new one?
edit: The PCM is not registering a CPS fault code. However, this could be a result of me clearing the codes just as the car started for the final time (mistake).
Last edited by NoClassic; Mar 22, 2009 at 01:11 AM.
I replaced the sensor.
The car still will not even attempt to start.
Could this be because I need a crank sensor relearn or should it at the very least run even without the relearn?
Any help would be great guys. I am really lost and quite frustrated. The car was running fine until the coolant leak.
The car still will not even attempt to start.
Could this be because I need a crank sensor relearn or should it at the very least run even without the relearn?
Any help would be great guys. I am really lost and quite frustrated. The car was running fine until the coolant leak.
I would like a good answer to this as well. I burnt my CPS wires on my exhaust and after replacing the damaged wires and sensor the car still misses horribly. NoClassic, my car was running terrible after burning through the wires and I cam to find that it was only running on one bank. I would bet that you are having a similar problem. I cannot get a good answer to this question. A friend of mine and I tried to do a case relearn last night but the car was running so poorly we werent able to get it done.
I left the car and returned back to school.
My dad spent some time today looking at stuff and found a bad ground.
I suspect this in combination with whatever water was in the system evaporating allowed the car to start for him today.
When I go back next weekend ill need to go through the harness again and find any bad heat shrink seals.
My dad spent some time today looking at stuff and found a bad ground.
I suspect this in combination with whatever water was in the system evaporating allowed the car to start for him today.
When I go back next weekend ill need to go through the harness again and find any bad heat shrink seals.
