timing question
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 89
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From: delaware
timing question is it common practice to increase ignition lead 1 or 2 degrees over the whole rpm range do to a lowering of the compresion ratio?
i am asking this, because i have a low compression forged motor now but still running off the factory 2001 timing table combined with a boost timing table.
i have already bumped the timing up 1 degree over the whole rpm range.
the car feels like it doesnt have the power it used too (under N/A conditions)
, but the car was off the road for month while having the motor built
forged low comp. 347, procomp heads, tsp 233/239 .598/.603 112lsa, 60mm turbo, 10psi, m6, efi live 2bar tune
i am asking this, because i have a low compression forged motor now but still running off the factory 2001 timing table combined with a boost timing table.
i have already bumped the timing up 1 degree over the whole rpm range.
the car feels like it doesnt have the power it used too (under N/A conditions)
, but the car was off the road for month while having the motor built
forged low comp. 347, procomp heads, tsp 233/239 .598/.603 112lsa, 60mm turbo, 10psi, m6, efi live 2bar tune
I bumped my timing 3 to 4 deg over the range, then just watched for knock. Not an exact science....but I didn't have any issues.
I run 7.9:1
When you drop the compression your car is going to feel a little pudgy. It is the cross that all of us high HP pump gas folks must bare.
To deal with the pudginess, I increased the motor size to a 383.
I run 7.9:1
When you drop the compression your car is going to feel a little pudgy. It is the cross that all of us high HP pump gas folks must bare.
To deal with the pudginess, I increased the motor size to a 383.
You may get some false knock with a fully built motor. Cut your timing a bunch in that area (4-6 deg or so) and see if the knock goes away. If it doesn't, then it is probably false knock.
If it does, then you need to reduce your timing.
If it does, then you need to reduce your timing.
