Don't forget to check the basics
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Don't forget to check the basics If you have idle issues after a cam install you may want to read this, if would have saved me countless hours so hopefully I can help someone else out
Ok so after I got my cam installed (almost a year ago) my car wouldn't crank right, when you cranked it the rpms would be really low and it would take car a minute or 2 before the idle got up to normal levels, and then at times when the A/C was on when you pulled up to a stop light the car would want to die and it would die about 70% of the time.
So I had my car in 2 different shops here in town. 1 shop said it was my Typhoon intake and they couldn't get the tune right because the intake was shitty, they wanted to sell me a much more $$$$ FAST intake. So I took it to another shop and they made it run a ton better and got more HP out of it then the first shop, I was able to run a 12.2 on street tires with their tune. But a week or 2 later the issue just came back and got worse. So I learned to live with driving my car different. When I had the A/C on and was coming up to a stop light I had to put the car in "N" and coast to the light, otherwise the car would die 90% of the time if it was in Drive. And when I went to crank the car I had to pump the gas a little in order for the RPMS to stay above 800, and there was no way to crank the car with the A/C on.
Well today the battery died, I replaced it with a new one from Napa and my car now cranks like a bone stock car and drives like a stock car even with the A/C on. You can even crank the car with the A/C on. I no longer need to put the car in "N" when coming to a light with the A/C on and I don't need to pump the gas when I crank it. So all this time for the past 9-12 months my weird idle/crank issue has just been a dieing battery. Who would have thought the battery would cause issues like I had. The car acted like he had a tuning issue and the idle air was all goofed up, but it was just a bum battery and the car wouldn't run right unless the RPMS were up above 1000 because the belt wasn't spinning the Alt fast enough to make up for what the battery didn't have. So just some food for thought, don't forget to check the basics, even if big name shops can't find the issue, it doesn't rule out the basics like a bad battery. just FYI
Ok so after I got my cam installed (almost a year ago) my car wouldn't crank right, when you cranked it the rpms would be really low and it would take car a minute or 2 before the idle got up to normal levels, and then at times when the A/C was on when you pulled up to a stop light the car would want to die and it would die about 70% of the time.
So I had my car in 2 different shops here in town. 1 shop said it was my Typhoon intake and they couldn't get the tune right because the intake was shitty, they wanted to sell me a much more $$$$ FAST intake. So I took it to another shop and they made it run a ton better and got more HP out of it then the first shop, I was able to run a 12.2 on street tires with their tune. But a week or 2 later the issue just came back and got worse. So I learned to live with driving my car different. When I had the A/C on and was coming up to a stop light I had to put the car in "N" and coast to the light, otherwise the car would die 90% of the time if it was in Drive. And when I went to crank the car I had to pump the gas a little in order for the RPMS to stay above 800, and there was no way to crank the car with the A/C on.
Well today the battery died, I replaced it with a new one from Napa and my car now cranks like a bone stock car and drives like a stock car even with the A/C on. You can even crank the car with the A/C on. I no longer need to put the car in "N" when coming to a light with the A/C on and I don't need to pump the gas when I crank it. So all this time for the past 9-12 months my weird idle/crank issue has just been a dieing battery. Who would have thought the battery would cause issues like I had. The car acted like he had a tuning issue and the idle air was all goofed up, but it was just a bum battery and the car wouldn't run right unless the RPMS were up above 1000 because the belt wasn't spinning the Alt fast enough to make up for what the battery didn't have. So just some food for thought, don't forget to check the basics, even if big name shops can't find the issue, it doesn't rule out the basics like a bad battery. just FYI
