Help with Predator
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On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 174
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Help with Predator I just got a predator a few days ago. I am very new to engine tuning and have no clue what most of the read outs in the real time diagnostic mode are saying. The only thing I do know is that I have a problem. At WOT i get 1-4 deg of knock retard. When I dyno'ed stock the dyno operator said I was pinging a little at the top. The dyno did have a wide band o2 and my a/f ratio was 13-12.5 for most of the run.
My questions are as follows; Does anyone have any information about the o2 sensor read outs and how they relate to the a/f ratio. What should my spark advance be at wot? (im seeing around 34 deg right now). What readouts should I be paying the most attention to? Please offer any information that would be usefull.
TIA
--Aaron
My questions are as follows; Does anyone have any information about the o2 sensor read outs and how they relate to the a/f ratio. What should my spark advance be at wot? (im seeing around 34 deg right now). What readouts should I be paying the most attention to? Please offer any information that would be usefull.
TIA
--Aaron
Ok, I would lower your spark, go to install performance tune, modify, and then ignition, - out all the way. Then go look at it, should be about 32* after that. 34* is a tad much unless your using race gas, or a step colder plug.
The O2s are not accurate, but you should be sitting around 880-910, any less you are lean, any more your rich, by how much, your guess is good as mine.
Your LTFTs, should be in the negative range, and then at WOT should go to '0'. If they are '+' let your vendor know. If it does not go to '0' then let your vendor know.
If you reduce all the timing you can by modifying the table, and you dont get any KR after that, let your vendor know.
You can have a lot done, like copy your High Octane to your Low Octane table, delete Torque Managment, but it depends on what you want.
I would watch LTFTs to make sure they are slightly negative, and go to 0 on WOT.
I would watch timing after you reduce it all, see what it is at.
I would watch KR especially during a shift, to see if the Torque Managment (TM) is still on.
I would watch O2s only at WOT make sure they stay around 880-910. Higher is still safe, but wasting power.
Charlie
The O2s are not accurate, but you should be sitting around 880-910, any less you are lean, any more your rich, by how much, your guess is good as mine.
Your LTFTs, should be in the negative range, and then at WOT should go to '0'. If they are '+' let your vendor know. If it does not go to '0' then let your vendor know.
If you reduce all the timing you can by modifying the table, and you dont get any KR after that, let your vendor know.
You can have a lot done, like copy your High Octane to your Low Octane table, delete Torque Managment, but it depends on what you want.
I would watch LTFTs to make sure they are slightly negative, and go to 0 on WOT.
I would watch timing after you reduce it all, see what it is at.
I would watch KR especially during a shift, to see if the Torque Managment (TM) is still on.
I would watch O2s only at WOT make sure they stay around 880-910. Higher is still safe, but wasting power.
Charlie
yeah what cat3 said. i have my timing at 30* from 2800 and up. u can have your vender do that for you and then just look at the o2 numbers. for me 910-920 is good where i dont get any ping or knock and keeps me safe. i would try and be in the upper 800's and lower 900's. the best way to get these numbers is a WOT run in 4th gear. u can adjust on that your self with power enrichment. dont worry about getting a tune for it unless ti is way off. its a lot easier to tweak with that yourself. once u find these numbers post them up and we can help you out. the only numbers in concern here are part throttle LTFT's, WOT o2's, WOT spark, and KR like cat3 said. also at WOT make sure the fuel trims hit 0%. just post up your results
