Question on HP...how to get more?
Question on HP...how to get more? Here is the circumstances. A heads/cam LS1 car tuned on the street, HP Tuners and wideband. idle is around 15:1 A/F, cruise is around 14.5, and when you nail it it drops to 12.3ish... as the RPM's go up making a run down the road A/f tapers off to around 12.9ish at about 6500rpms. Timing was bumped up to 30.
Didnt spend a lot of time tuning it.. Raced a built LT1 car and had no probs beating it... car ran good despite a few cam/idle issues that needed tweaking.
Car goes to a dyno.... puts down 303whp and guy said it was so lean it was lucky it didnt blow up. ??
After tuned on dyno car made 406whp. 625whp on a 200 shot.
Unless my W/B was not reading right... but the car ran really good, no knock or anything in the logs, a/f's looked decent.
What could one do to gain this extra power (100hp) granted my A/F numbers "were" correct?
Im kinda confused.
Didnt spend a lot of time tuning it.. Raced a built LT1 car and had no probs beating it... car ran good despite a few cam/idle issues that needed tweaking.
Car goes to a dyno.... puts down 303whp and guy said it was so lean it was lucky it didnt blow up. ??
After tuned on dyno car made 406whp. 625whp on a 200 shot.
Unless my W/B was not reading right... but the car ran really good, no knock or anything in the logs, a/f's looked decent.
What could one do to gain this extra power (100hp) granted my A/F numbers "were" correct?
Im kinda confused.
Did the car really FEEL like it picked up 100hp or was he being shady in regards to his claim? Granted 30 degrees is too much timing for really anything, but you can't really tune 100rwhp out of an N/A setup that is running properly.
Car was sold to someone else and this is their claim.. Im really doubting it... but???
Timing I just upped a couple degrees and had no knock so left it at that.
WB was placed after the 3" header tubes merged into a 4" Y-pipe... right there.
I ported the heads on this car and tuned it... I know it ran strong and pretty good. Im doubting it was initially dynoed at that low to begin with. I know the idle and just off idle might have been lean... but we only made a few pulls with the thing and then pulled my WB off it.
My other cars seem to work fine. Im just questioning the validity of this claim.... wanted to verify it as i've never had anything on a dyno... just track tested. I think if my A/F ratios were that far off I would have seen some knock..... especially if you say 30 degrees timing is too much.
Thanks.
Timing I just upped a couple degrees and had no knock so left it at that.
WB was placed after the 3" header tubes merged into a 4" Y-pipe... right there.
I ported the heads on this car and tuned it... I know it ran strong and pretty good. Im doubting it was initially dynoed at that low to begin with. I know the idle and just off idle might have been lean... but we only made a few pulls with the thing and then pulled my WB off it.
My other cars seem to work fine. Im just questioning the validity of this claim.... wanted to verify it as i've never had anything on a dyno... just track tested. I think if my A/F ratios were that far off I would have seen some knock..... especially if you say 30 degrees timing is too much.
Thanks.
It was either not running right when it got to the dyno and the dyno operator/tuner fixed the problem or something shady was being done. Like Frost said, if the car wasn't sputtering/breaking up or dropping a cylinder, there is no way that the tuner just "found" 33% more power. Tuning is not magic.
Ya it wasnt breaking up.. ran fine. Heres what it sounded like.....taking the win in the far lane. I kinda figured it was a bunch of BS.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M5LrfwT41Ws
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M5LrfwT41Ws
