Car running lean
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From: Houston/College Station, TX
Yah, it is only 4 bolts holding down the fuel rail. Sounds like a good idea, I'll try it tomorrow. And the fuel pressure is supposed to be at 58 psi right?
Ryan
Ryan
I have the same problem, setting codes 171 & 174. The car runs fine otherwise. Have had MAF ends since day one, but made no changes anytime recently when the codes appeared. Getting autotap from a buddy this weekend and was curious what parameters to monitor that might help diagnose this problem...
I'm in a real jam because I've got to get my car e-checked soon in order to renew my registration that expires at the end of this month.
I'm in a real jam because I've got to get my car e-checked soon in order to renew my registration that expires at the end of this month.
Originally Posted by shudog
I have the same problem, setting codes 171 & 174. The car runs fine otherwise. Have had MAF ends since day one, but made no changes anytime recently when the codes appeared. Getting autotap from a buddy this weekend and was curious what parameters to monitor that might help diagnose this problem...
I'm in a real jam because I've got to get my car e-checked soon in order to renew my registration that expires at the end of this month.
I'm in a real jam because I've got to get my car e-checked soon in order to renew my registration that expires at the end of this month.
I just swapped back in my stock MAF/Bellows and the same thing is still happening. As for what to monitor, I've been checking LTFTs and O2 numbers. My LTFTs have been a steady +25 at idle and low throttle (<3%) and my O2s have been putting out some strange numbers at idle, sometimes as low as 40mV...today all four of them were reading between 40 and 60 mV at idle. What this has to do with the lean condition, I don't know
My next step is to run some top engine cleaner through the injectors and top end, and see if that helps. I doubt that it's an injector problem, because both banks are throwing codes...but I don't know what else to do.
Any progress with your situation, Onyx?
Hope this helps and would appreciate feedback. My car is throwing the same codes. I recently replaced the MAF with the SLP MAF and smooth bellow, removed the screen from the SLP MAF of course. My SES light came on. A month later, I installed my SLP LT Headers, Cats, Y-pipe, SLP Clutch assembly. RESET the PCM and what do you know. The light came on again. I called SLP and ended up sending my SLP MAF to them to check it out. It checked out fine. SLP insisted it was the fact I took the screen out. I called them to let them know I received the same codes now with my stock MAF. (Although MTI altered my stock MAF when they installed my carbon Hi-Flow Lid.) Never had the problem until I installed the SLP MAF. Now, I installed the screen back in and yes, the light came on again. I called Madman and Co racing and he suggested either a MAF Translator or LS1 EDIT. I called MTI and they highly suggested LS1 Edit at a cost of $500.00. I am 90% sure the MAF Translator will correct the problem and is only about $200.00 with shipping. Anyone gone the MAF translator route yet and did this correct the problem?
Originally Posted by Y2kHawk05
My car is throwing the same codes. I recently replaced the MAF with the SLP MAF and smooth bellow, removed the screen from the SLP MAF of course. My SES light came on. A month later, I installed my SLP LT Headers, Cats, Y-pipe, SLP Clutch assembly. RESET the PCM and what do you know. The light came on again. I called SLP and ended up sending my SLP MAF to them to check it out. It checked out fine. SLP insisted it was the fact I took the screen out. I called them to let them know I received the same codes now with my stock MAF. (Although MTI altered my stock MAF when they installed my carbon Hi-Flow Lid.) Never had the problem until I installed the SLP MAF. Now, I installed the screen back in and yes, the light came on again. I called Madman and Co racing and he suggested either a MAF Translator or LS1 EDIT. I called MTI and they highly suggested LS1 Edit at a cost of $500.00. I am 90% sure the MAF Translator will correct the problem and is only about $200.00 with shipping. Anyone gone the MAF translator route yet and did this correct the problem?
http://www.ls1tuning.com/iboard/
Originally Posted by Y2kHawk05
Anyone gone the MAF translator route yet and did this correct the problem?
Just picked up a MAF-T, I'm going to hook it up tomorrow. I'll be sure to post the results.
Please post the results. I went ahead and ordered the MAF-T and expect it in near the end of next week. Additional research proved that I may need to invest in an Autotap scanner to get my car completed tuned to proper specs. Since I am out of a corporate job right now, every penny counts. I called a local dealer that sells the Autotap and they said once I installed the parts, they would run the checks for $40.00. Sounds reasonable, but if anyone close to my house happens to have the Autotap with the LS1 software and is willing to help me out for under $40.00? Please let me know. I am in the Houston, Texas area.
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Verdad Gallardo Well, put on the MAFT at 5% rich...no change.
Set it on 10% rich today and so far no change..I'm going to try messing around with it while I have it hooked up to the tech 2 in a coule days, hopefully I can get some results
Set it on 10% rich today and so far no change..I'm going to try messing around with it while I have it hooked up to the tech 2 in a coule days, hopefully I can get some results
Forget it - found the o-ring for the EGR going into the intake was half sucked in and was sucking air bigtime. Fixed the airleak, reset the ECU and the car runs sooooo much better now. Idles smoother, runs quieter, pulls harder, the whole works!!!
