Quick question on hc tuned ls1
Quick question on hc tuned ls1 I had my stock ls1 bottom end rebuild with some rods and pistons for nitrous. 243 heads, stock intake, and a nitrous lunati cam. The car was tuned awesome for drivability. Only problem was that the car was smoking and made low power for the combo on motor. Turns out it was not broken in enough. My engine builder drove it around for a while. Stopped smoking (it was burning lots of oil), compression and leak down came back great. A Couple cel's came up. The car idles low now and stalls a lot. It is an auto car. Wot is fine and picked up power as more miles were put on the car.
If a car is tuned with a motor that wasn't fully broken in, would the tune be off in a few places after rings seated? I do not have the car with me, it is at my engine builders shop otherwise I would run the codes.
If a car is tuned with a motor that wasn't fully broken in, would the tune be off in a few places after rings seated? I do not have the car with me, it is at my engine builders shop otherwise I would run the codes.
Granted, I've never personally built a n2o engine....but damn, that sounds messed up! I realize that you're going to have increased gap on the top 2...but that seems really suspect to me that it was burning oil. As far as I know, oil ring gap should have stayed the same.
How many miles did you have to put on it before it cleared up?
If ring sealing was indeed so bad at the time of the tune that the car was using a lot of oil, then sure....I so no reason why the tune would not be affected.
How many miles did you have to put on it before it cleared up?
If ring sealing was indeed so bad at the time of the tune that the car was using a lot of oil, then sure....I so no reason why the tune would not be affected.
Granted, I've never personally built a n2o engine....but damn, that sounds messed up! I realize that you're going to have increased gap on the top 2...but that seems really suspect to me that it was burning oil. As far as I know, oil ring gap should have stayed the same.
How many miles did you have to put on it before it cleared up?
If ring sealing was indeed so bad at the time of the tune that the car was using a lot of oil, then sure....I so no reason why the tune would not be affected.
How many miles did you have to put on it before it cleared up?
If ring sealing was indeed so bad at the time of the tune that the car was using a lot of oil, then sure....I so no reason why the tune would not be affected.
The car had maybe 40 miles on it before the dyno. A machine shop built the engine, and another shop put it in the car. I work 40 hours a week and go to college so there was room for a mis-communication. I was told at one point that I could take this car straight to the dyno. On that note, I brought it to a shop and left it there for my tuner to work his magic because of the same time constraints. He did an awesome job. I drove the car, idled like a champ with the ac on shifted fine. Afr was good. Only issue was that it let a TON of oil by at wot. Made on the low side of 350rwhp.
I don't doubt my tuner, so I sent the car to my engine builder, who proceeded to do the tests mentioned above. I want him to do them so he could see the results inperson. All came back perfect. So he drove the car to and from work for 2 weeks or so. Oil at WOT had completely stopped, he felt as if it was picking up power, but the idle steadily declined. Idle's low and stalls now, smells like gas. Only at idle though. We both agree the rings had not seated at the intitial dyno time. I would imagine and he agreed that the tune was not able to compensate for such a change. I would imagine that WOT isn't perfect still even if it's getting better; which is fine. Car is an hour away so curiosity killing the cat just thinking about it. I'm waiting for my engine builder to bring it to a friends dyno just to run over it one last time so I don't waste my tuners time who was kind enough to offer a retune for free when the issues were solved.
Builder had filled me in and told me that the rings did need some time to seat so it seemed to have worked a little. I don't chase numbers. Car has a n20 cam, converter is tight as hell. The 350rwhp felt like 350 so that was an issue lol.
I should have been a little more clear, as you are right. It was burning oil for sure. I made it sound like I was suggesting that it was a nitrous motor that it would let more oil bad, my bad man.
The car had maybe 40 miles on it before the dyno. A machine shop built the engine, and another shop put it in the car. I work 40 hours a week and go to college so there was room for a mis-communication. I was told at one point that I could take this car straight to the dyno. On that note, I brought it to a shop and left it there for my tuner to work his magic because of the same time constraints. He did an awesome job. I drove the car, idled like a champ with the ac on shifted fine. Afr was good. Only issue was that it let a TON of oil by at wot. Made on the low side of 350rwhp.
I don't doubt my tuner, so I sent the car to my engine builder, who proceeded to do the tests mentioned above. I want him to do them so he could see the results inperson. All came back perfect. So he drove the car to and from work for 2 weeks or so. Oil at WOT had completely stopped, he felt as if it was picking up power, but the idle steadily declined. Idle's low and stalls now, smells like gas. Only at idle though. We both agree the rings had not seated at the intitial dyno time. I would imagine and he agreed that the tune was not able to compensate for such a change. I would imagine that WOT isn't perfect still even if it's getting better; which is fine. Car is an hour away so curiosity killing the cat just thinking about it. I'm waiting for my engine builder to bring it to a friends dyno just to run over it one last time so I don't waste my tuners time who was kind enough to offer a retune for free when the issues were solved.
Builder had filled me in and told me that the rings did need some time to seat so it seemed to have worked a little. I don't chase numbers. Car has a n20 cam, converter is tight as hell. The 350rwhp felt like 350 so that was an issue lol.
The car had maybe 40 miles on it before the dyno. A machine shop built the engine, and another shop put it in the car. I work 40 hours a week and go to college so there was room for a mis-communication. I was told at one point that I could take this car straight to the dyno. On that note, I brought it to a shop and left it there for my tuner to work his magic because of the same time constraints. He did an awesome job. I drove the car, idled like a champ with the ac on shifted fine. Afr was good. Only issue was that it let a TON of oil by at wot. Made on the low side of 350rwhp.
I don't doubt my tuner, so I sent the car to my engine builder, who proceeded to do the tests mentioned above. I want him to do them so he could see the results inperson. All came back perfect. So he drove the car to and from work for 2 weeks or so. Oil at WOT had completely stopped, he felt as if it was picking up power, but the idle steadily declined. Idle's low and stalls now, smells like gas. Only at idle though. We both agree the rings had not seated at the intitial dyno time. I would imagine and he agreed that the tune was not able to compensate for such a change. I would imagine that WOT isn't perfect still even if it's getting better; which is fine. Car is an hour away so curiosity killing the cat just thinking about it. I'm waiting for my engine builder to bring it to a friends dyno just to run over it one last time so I don't waste my tuners time who was kind enough to offer a retune for free when the issues were solved.
Builder had filled me in and told me that the rings did need some time to seat so it seemed to have worked a little. I don't chase numbers. Car has a n20 cam, converter is tight as hell. The 350rwhp felt like 350 so that was an issue lol.
As a side note; I would think that the tune might not be as far off as you might think. If it was burning oil like you say, I'd be more concerned about the O2 sensors being well on their way to the grave. Time to log the switching voltages, and see if they are doing what they are supposed to. Other than that, nice of the tuner to offer to re-tune....but I'd definitely check or replace the o2s and add fresh spark plugs. Also, if you have not already done so, install a good oil catch can.
An interesting read: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...new-motor.html
As a side note; I would think that the tune might not be as far off as you might think. If it was burning oil like you say, I'd be more concerned about the O2 sensors being well on their way to the grave. Time to log the switching voltages, and see if they are doing what they are supposed to. Other than that, nice of the tuner to offer to re-tune....but I'd definitely check or replace the o2s and add fresh spark plugs. Also, if you have not already done so, install a good oil catch can.
As a side note; I would think that the tune might not be as far off as you might think. If it was burning oil like you say, I'd be more concerned about the O2 sensors being well on their way to the grave. Time to log the switching voltages, and see if they are doing what they are supposed to. Other than that, nice of the tuner to offer to re-tune....but I'd definitely check or replace the o2s and add fresh spark plugs. Also, if you have not already done so, install a good oil catch can.
