T/A KID

iTrader: (12)

I am not arguing with ED, in fact I talk with him quite a bit on the Hp tuners forum (different screen name), I do believe he is one of the best tuners around no doubt.
I do tuning to and I know what works, I had a monoblade on my old Procharger setup and never had to adjust the IAC valve at all, just played with the Throttle blade.

Maybe if you wouldn't cheap out on parts your **** would run better, get rid of that CHINESE TB

AGAIN good luck on getting your "car" running good, YOUR GOING TO NEED IT

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

You do realize my "car" already put down 442 RWHP Naturally Aspirated and the tune is not even finished yet, right??

Professional Products is a GREAT Throttle Body and I have been using it for 3 years with no issues...guess what, I have a little secret for you...the Arizona Speed and Marine Throttle Body (MADE IN USA!!!), the BBK Throttle Body (MADE IN USA!!!) and several others ALL HAVE THIS PROBLEM!!! Hell, the first time I heard about this was on an AZS&M Throttle Body!

SOURCES:
http://www.hashmarks.com/techtips/throttle_body_mod.htm
http://www.corvetteguruforum.com/mod...topic_id=12499
http://para.noid.org/~lj/PCM Tutorial/SplitBLMinfo.htm

Also, if I remember right, boosted cars are WAY different than N/A cars when it comes to idle adjustment...

Go back into your hole and have fun doing things the easy way (i.e cracking the TB blades to bypass the IAC)

T/A KID

iTrader: (12)

My monoblade is a Arizona Speed and Marine and I have no issues.

BTW I don't care what your car made on the dyno, I tune cars on the dyno and you can manipulate the dyno to show whatever you want (probably your case so your tuner would make you feel better since your car is having problems)

Take it to the track thats what matters, and when your not trapping what you should, then you can say I told you.

I really wish you luck in spite of all this.

I never said I bypassed the IAC valve? Where talking about letting additional air into the engine, I crack the TB and you DRILL holes into the throttle, lol.

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

No, I drill holes into the IAC PASSAGE!!! It is WAY different! I am not drilling holes through the TB blades! WHOLE different concept, same result, but easier to tune!

Also, I am the tuner, I was doing the dyno, and no, thee numbers were not manipulated...SAE, smoothing level 5. Thank you and have a nice day.

I will get on the track in due time cupcake...rear end comes first.

Also, you have no issues because you are boosted....

T/A KID

iTrader: (12)

WELL I APOLOGIZE then, I thought you were drilling holes in the blade (thats the way it sounded), I was just informing you that you don't have to do that, thats all.

I did do a custom Supervic on my setups before that didn't have the IAC passages in the intake runners and I had Split BLMs, I fixed it by playing with the airflow and Timing tables.

Good luck and sorry for the misconception.

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

Misconceptions happen. I thought I made it fairly clear from the beginning what was going on, but if not then I could see how it got confusing.

Thanks for the attempt to help and sorry for getting aggravated.

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

The kid's on the right track. The cure for the split fuel trims are just as he's doing. Drill the bypass hole through the IAC passage so as to not let air bleed in through the blade.

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

Ok, I am starting to get a little pissed off...

Got the IAC Valve down to 70-75 when warm, idling at 825 rpms and timing sits between 15 and 18*. BLMs are STILL split, sitting at L 122, R 147. I got pissed and said **** it and started dicking with my Individual Cylinder Fuel Trims again...I BARELY changed them and suddenly the car would not idle anymore. I could get it to start with gas, then as SOON as I let go, dead stop...no sputter, nothing...just stop. I realized I was still tuning in MAF mode so I switched to SD mode and changed the trims back...she fired right up...BLMs changed to L 133, R 157. I went back into fuel trims and made the EXACT same change that I made before switching to SD mode...started right up and BLMs changed to L 133, R 152 (I gave the right side more fuel...). I went in and made a slightly more drastic change to the fuel trims...started right up and BLMs went to L 132, R 147. Finally, this last run, I made another drastic change to the trims, and I changed the VE tables for my idle by 1%. The result was BLMs of L 133, R 148. I went the wrong way on my VE table... Still no exhaust leaks, no. vacuum leaks, kPa sits between 60 and 65 at idle, No misfires...What the hell am I missing???

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

Here are the videos of the very last idle I mentioned above...2 vids total, 1 of the dashboard in TunerPro, and one of the list view which has EVERYTHING. Don't mind the coolant temps, TunerPro is off, I wasnt at 214* lol, I was at 170*.

flame

iTrader: (13)

If the coolant temp that the pcm is seeing is off then you need to fix that. That is what controls the cooling fans and fueling calculations. How did you verify the temp?

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

It isnt the PCM temps that are off. It is the Tunerpro program. Datamaster shows 170*, and when I ohmed the sensors they read ~165-175. Coolant temps never break 180 even on a hot day.

flame

iTrader: (13)

Okay just making sure