How much timing at WOT??
#1
How much timing at WOT??
What should my timing be at WOT?
Last night I did a few runs (car feels doggy) and I watched the timing with my Predator. The most I got was 26.5°-27.4° at WOT.
Granted, I dont have a tune yet or headers, but once the car gets moving it feels like it just lays down...it feels like it's really working to move.
If I use the predator to alter the timing, do I go + a certain % or - a certain %? Which way advances/retards the timing?
Last night I did a few runs (car feels doggy) and I watched the timing with my Predator. The most I got was 26.5°-27.4° at WOT.
Granted, I dont have a tune yet or headers, but once the car gets moving it feels like it just lays down...it feels like it's really working to move.
If I use the predator to alter the timing, do I go + a certain % or - a certain %? Which way advances/retards the timing?
#6
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i got too small of a verter. Shifting at 6089 dropped my rpm's to 4600. This is called too little SE for your cam.
So by shifting to 6600 it drops it back down to 5000 rpm, which keeps me "under peak rwhp" more than 6089->4600. In theory this should help me 1/4 mile time. I ran 12.1-12.2 before maybe i'll get an extra 10th by using the extra cam power. See my sig and you'll understand. You want to go down the 1/4 mile with an average rearwhp of as much as possible.
Had i chose a 4400 stall. I probably would have shifted at 6600 and dropped back to 6000. As the saying goes, most people underestimate the stall converter choice by a good 500 rpm. 4000 stall probably would rock out. but im not bout to do any changes now since the money is spent and its my daily.
Some cars will not knock nor will they make more power with more timing. This is something one should try on the dyno. If you dont make more power with 30.5 versus the stock 28 or so then whats the point? Anyhoo i think the message here is try some maps on the dyno and see what works best for your car. Not all cars are alike.
A crusty piston oil soaked intake pvc oil leaking **** might detonate mad at 30.5 but run fine at 28. Or it might knock at 25.
I tested this at the track ,hotlapping till my ECT's were 225, there was still no logged knock and my high octane timing map scaler (PID) was still at 100%.
So by shifting to 6600 it drops it back down to 5000 rpm, which keeps me "under peak rwhp" more than 6089->4600. In theory this should help me 1/4 mile time. I ran 12.1-12.2 before maybe i'll get an extra 10th by using the extra cam power. See my sig and you'll understand. You want to go down the 1/4 mile with an average rearwhp of as much as possible.
Had i chose a 4400 stall. I probably would have shifted at 6600 and dropped back to 6000. As the saying goes, most people underestimate the stall converter choice by a good 500 rpm. 4000 stall probably would rock out. but im not bout to do any changes now since the money is spent and its my daily.
Some cars will not knock nor will they make more power with more timing. This is something one should try on the dyno. If you dont make more power with 30.5 versus the stock 28 or so then whats the point? Anyhoo i think the message here is try some maps on the dyno and see what works best for your car. Not all cars are alike.
A crusty piston oil soaked intake pvc oil leaking **** might detonate mad at 30.5 but run fine at 28. Or it might knock at 25.
I tested this at the track ,hotlapping till my ECT's were 225, there was still no logged knock and my high octane timing map scaler (PID) was still at 100%.
#7
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Originally Posted by samz28
A crusty piston oil soaked intake pvc oil leaking **** might detonate mad at 30.5 but run fine at 28. Or it might knock at 25.
We never could figure out why it wouldn't lean out or the KR would come and go. Now we know. 306 rwhp in an A4 with a bad engine and still spanking Mustangs. Gotta' love it.