Do not allow Behe Performance to tune your car...
09-30-2013, 04:46 PM
#21
09-30-2013, 07:23 PM
#22
Looking over your tune there are several errors.
1) Way too much spark timing, plus the knock attack rate is lowered from stock and the knock recovery rate is increased over stock. Plus the max knock retard table is lowered to 4* That is the best way to cause detonation and will melt pistons & lift ring lands. I would start with 14*-16* timing and use 2-3 heat range colder than stock spark plugs.
2) If your tuner did a Maf tune, then why are both Maf tables stock, but leaned out most of the VE table except for adding to the 99 & 105 KPA cells from 3600-6800 RPM? Not sure if your Maf is maxed without seeing a scan log, but likely it is.
3) Looks like the WOT AFR was "tuned" by the PE table. This is the way tunes were done in 2002 with LS1 Edit. Also on these gen IV pcms, I disable the LTFT as negative LTFTs are carried over in PE mode.
4) As for your trans not shifting @WOT, first the rev limiter was lowered 100 RPM, the WOT upshift speeds were increased 2 mph for the 1-2 & 6 mph for the 2-3 & 3-4 shift. The part throttle shifts have to be brutal with 89.9 psi shift pressures at all torque cells.
5) Do you realize that your traction control is disabled?
6) All of your misfire tables are disabled including the P0300 misfire code (plus all the previously mentioned codes) If your cam is causing false misfires, then I would only raise the low RPM & idle RPM misfire event time cells and enable the P0300 code. This way if you have a real misfire, the check engine light will flash.
7) Do you have a 160*F thermostat? And once your ECT hits 196*F, both fans will be on and will stay on until the car is shut off. A 2 bar OS will lower the temp cells of the fan desired table.
Russ Kemp
1) Way too much spark timing, plus the knock attack rate is lowered from stock and the knock recovery rate is increased over stock. Plus the max knock retard table is lowered to 4* That is the best way to cause detonation and will melt pistons & lift ring lands. I would start with 14*-16* timing and use 2-3 heat range colder than stock spark plugs.
2) If your tuner did a Maf tune, then why are both Maf tables stock, but leaned out most of the VE table except for adding to the 99 & 105 KPA cells from 3600-6800 RPM? Not sure if your Maf is maxed without seeing a scan log, but likely it is.
3) Looks like the WOT AFR was "tuned" by the PE table. This is the way tunes were done in 2002 with LS1 Edit. Also on these gen IV pcms, I disable the LTFT as negative LTFTs are carried over in PE mode.
4) As for your trans not shifting @WOT, first the rev limiter was lowered 100 RPM, the WOT upshift speeds were increased 2 mph for the 1-2 & 6 mph for the 2-3 & 3-4 shift. The part throttle shifts have to be brutal with 89.9 psi shift pressures at all torque cells.
5) Do you realize that your traction control is disabled?
6) All of your misfire tables are disabled including the P0300 misfire code (plus all the previously mentioned codes) If your cam is causing false misfires, then I would only raise the low RPM & idle RPM misfire event time cells and enable the P0300 code. This way if you have a real misfire, the check engine light will flash.
7) Do you have a 160*F thermostat? And once your ECT hits 196*F, both fans will be on and will stay on until the car is shut off. A 2 bar OS will lower the temp cells of the fan desired table.
Russ Kemp
09-30-2013, 08:32 PM
#23
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Sad part there is a lot of shops like this around. People will say they are the best but have no clue there car has a jacked/dangerous tune in it.
Sometimes I wonder if these tuners are actually trying to tune these cars correctly to the best they can do or are just happy to throw numbers out of the dyno, who cares how they drive or blow up?
Keep the faith. There are still many good tuners out there.
Sometimes I wonder if these tuners are actually trying to tune these cars correctly to the best they can do or are just happy to throw numbers out of the dyno, who cares how they drive or blow up?
Keep the faith. There are still many good tuners out there.
Looking over your tune there are several errors.
1) Way too much spark timing, plus the knock attack rate is lowered from stock and the knock recovery rate is increased over stock. Plus the max knock retard table is lowered to 4* That is the best way to cause detonation and will melt pistons & lift ring lands. I would start with 14*-16* timing and use 2-3 heat range colder than stock spark plugs.
2) If your tuner did a Maf tune, then why are both Maf tables stock, but leaned out most of the VE table except for adding to the 99 & 105 KPA cells from 3600-6800 RPM? Not sure if your Maf is maxed without seeing a scan log, but likely it is.
3) Looks like the WOT AFR was "tuned" by the PE table. This is the way tunes were done in 2002 with LS1 Edit. Also on these gen IV pcms, I disable the LTFT as negative LTFTs are carried over in PE mode.
4) As for your trans not shifting @WOT, first the rev limiter was lowered 100 RPM, the WOT upshift speeds were increased 2 mph for the 1-2 & 6 mph for the 2-3 & 3-4 shift. The part throttle shifts have to be brutal with 89.9 psi shift pressures at all torque cells.
5) Do you realize that your traction control is disabled?
6) All of your misfire tables are disabled including the P0300 misfire code (plus all the previously mentioned codes) If your cam is causing false misfires, then I would only raise the low RPM & idle RPM misfire event time cells and enable the P0300 code. This way if you have a real misfire, the check engine light will flash.
7) Do you have a 160*F thermostat? And once your ECT hits 196*F, both fans will be on and will stay on until the car is shut off. A 2 bar OS will lower the temp cells of the fan desired table.
Russ Kemp
1) Way too much spark timing, plus the knock attack rate is lowered from stock and the knock recovery rate is increased over stock. Plus the max knock retard table is lowered to 4* That is the best way to cause detonation and will melt pistons & lift ring lands. I would start with 14*-16* timing and use 2-3 heat range colder than stock spark plugs.
2) If your tuner did a Maf tune, then why are both Maf tables stock, but leaned out most of the VE table except for adding to the 99 & 105 KPA cells from 3600-6800 RPM? Not sure if your Maf is maxed without seeing a scan log, but likely it is.
3) Looks like the WOT AFR was "tuned" by the PE table. This is the way tunes were done in 2002 with LS1 Edit. Also on these gen IV pcms, I disable the LTFT as negative LTFTs are carried over in PE mode.
4) As for your trans not shifting @WOT, first the rev limiter was lowered 100 RPM, the WOT upshift speeds were increased 2 mph for the 1-2 & 6 mph for the 2-3 & 3-4 shift. The part throttle shifts have to be brutal with 89.9 psi shift pressures at all torque cells.
5) Do you realize that your traction control is disabled?
6) All of your misfire tables are disabled including the P0300 misfire code (plus all the previously mentioned codes) If your cam is causing false misfires, then I would only raise the low RPM & idle RPM misfire event time cells and enable the P0300 code. This way if you have a real misfire, the check engine light will flash.
7) Do you have a 160*F thermostat? And once your ECT hits 196*F, both fans will be on and will stay on until the car is shut off. A 2 bar OS will lower the temp cells of the fan desired table.
Russ Kemp
