( long thread) Need help with code. I've searched, I swear!!
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Teching In
Joined: Jul 2013
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( long thread) Need help with code. I've searched, I swear!! Hi everyone! New to the forum, but have used it for a long time for research. Unfortunately I'm not smart enough to contribute much yet. I've got a 1972 suburban with an '08 escalade l92/ '11 silverado 6l80e combo with a PSI harnessYes there is a engine/tranny year mismatch which started all the drama to begin with. Ended up getting the correct '11 e38 so the engine and tranny would communicate.
Here is where I made the big mistake. After getting the new computer I found local (Craigslist) tuner that appeared to have a good record. He tuned it and I thought it was great, but it went limp at WOT after about 4 seconds. He tuned it again, but it still isn't completely correct. Goes limp sometimes at part throttle. He didn't want to mess with it anymore unless I paid him more money, which didn't seem right to me. Goes limp sometimes at part throttle. So I finally bit the bullet and scheduled an appointment with Ryne over at CMS after reading all of the fantastic reviews on this board.
So before I get it over there I want to make sure there are no issues that I could have resolved before taking it to him.
I'm currently getting a p0300 code (I also get an enhanced p1380 and p1381 code, but have no BCM or ABS , so I think it's just not turned off in ECM). Even when I clear it, it pops up even before I turn the engine on. Every time. I've disconnected the battery overnight, multiple times. I replaced spark plugs (Bosch platinum correct for engine), spark plug wires ( factory, ohmed all of them out to about .65), new MAF, new MAP, both AC delco stock parts. I also installed new Bosch o2 sensors when I installed the engine a couple of months ago. I've got a non oiled CAI setup also.
Noid light shows all injectors are working, fuel pressure gauge shows 57 psi at the rail. Spark plug test light shows spark from coils to all spark plugs, and I lightly sprayed the coils down with a water spray bottle last night, but didn't find any errant spark.
There is definitely a miss, I can feel it in idle and driving it.
My scanner (innova 3130) doesn't show me miss count per cylinder, that I can find anyway.
The only other thing I can find in the scan is that the LTFT is way out of whack from what I've read. They are about -20, + or - 3. They never get close to 0 at WOT which is what I've read they are supposed to do. The STFT linger around 0 most of the time.
I've read that it could be in the jacked up tune the guy did, but I'm not sure. Just trying to make sure that when I take it to Ryne that it is as good mechanically as it can be.
Sorry so long guys, but any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you all!
Shawn
Here is where I made the big mistake. After getting the new computer I found local (Craigslist) tuner that appeared to have a good record. He tuned it and I thought it was great, but it went limp at WOT after about 4 seconds. He tuned it again, but it still isn't completely correct. Goes limp sometimes at part throttle. He didn't want to mess with it anymore unless I paid him more money, which didn't seem right to me. Goes limp sometimes at part throttle. So I finally bit the bullet and scheduled an appointment with Ryne over at CMS after reading all of the fantastic reviews on this board.
So before I get it over there I want to make sure there are no issues that I could have resolved before taking it to him.
I'm currently getting a p0300 code (I also get an enhanced p1380 and p1381 code, but have no BCM or ABS , so I think it's just not turned off in ECM). Even when I clear it, it pops up even before I turn the engine on. Every time. I've disconnected the battery overnight, multiple times. I replaced spark plugs (Bosch platinum correct for engine), spark plug wires ( factory, ohmed all of them out to about .65), new MAF, new MAP, both AC delco stock parts. I also installed new Bosch o2 sensors when I installed the engine a couple of months ago. I've got a non oiled CAI setup also.
Noid light shows all injectors are working, fuel pressure gauge shows 57 psi at the rail. Spark plug test light shows spark from coils to all spark plugs, and I lightly sprayed the coils down with a water spray bottle last night, but didn't find any errant spark.
There is definitely a miss, I can feel it in idle and driving it.
My scanner (innova 3130) doesn't show me miss count per cylinder, that I can find anyway.
The only other thing I can find in the scan is that the LTFT is way out of whack from what I've read. They are about -20, + or - 3. They never get close to 0 at WOT which is what I've read they are supposed to do. The STFT linger around 0 most of the time.
I've read that it could be in the jacked up tune the guy did, but I'm not sure. Just trying to make sure that when I take it to Ryne that it is as good mechanically as it can be.
Sorry so long guys, but any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you all!
Shawn
A good scan tool will show misfires per cylinder. You will likely find misfires on side with the leanest fuel trims. Tuning won't cause split fuel trims, misfires will. The codes are due to the "tuner" guy not shutting them off. Did the accelerator pedal module, engine & ECM all come from the same truck? They should to keep it simple. Drive by wire swaps can be a pain in the butt due to mis-matched parts. It ain't. 1955 anymore. When you get into engine swaps with home made inlet ducting you have to sometimes loosen some MAF test parameters to prevent limp home mode. Learned fuel trims often do not go to zero @ WOT. When you have a 20% split in fuel trims, you have vehicle problem. Not tuning. You do have other tuning problems. If a guy is worth a **** he doesn't have to troll Craig's list for work. Word of mouth will keep him busy.
