Got a few problems...related?
Got a few problems...related? Hello all,
My car is a 99 camaro with Siemen Deka 60's in it. 2 BAR SD Custom OS(HP Tuners), so no MAF. Open loop because of my passenger exhaust manifold leak. Current temps are around 30. 1,100 ft above sea level if that makes any difference. Primary VE and my fuel data are very good. Motor is primarily stock when you think about it, new red top optima battery, -5CC pistons, ARP studs and rod bolts, Chromoly pushrods, 918 springs, titanium retainers, stock crank, stock rods, stock heads, stock ls1 intake, stock manifolds, ls6 block, stock 99 ls1 cam, 9" rear with 3.00:1 ratio.
My problems:
1) during crank sometimes my car starts up like normal other times it takes a very long time to turn over. If I attempt to start and it doesn't crank after about 1 sec I let off, I try again and it starts immediately every time. Is this excessive crank time because of excess fuel or timing or to little? With little done to the motor I don't believe I should have to change fueling during crank or spark but something is not right. How would I know?
2)With my Ford 9" I have had nothing but vibration and whining problems. Currently the backlash is horrible so there is a big gap from accel to decel. Would this cause tuning problems going into and out of load? I have a major problem tuning around 20-30 kPa because it is sometimes leaning all the way out or going to 10:1 AFR, it is not a subtle change at 35 kPa either, 35 could be -1 and 30 could be +25 on the same rpm scale.
3)Oil pressure gauge is spazzing out, almost unusable. I don't remember when it worked correctly but I have changed the sensor out recently with another Borg Warner sensor with 0 change. My battery is located in the back. About 2 gauge welding wire positive to front at distribution block and 2 gauge from battery negative to back of passenger head. 2 gauge from front of passenger head to chassis ground. Also two 2 gauge wires from battery to two chassis grounds in the trunk. The reason I added all that info is because I don't think it is grounded well enough, occasionally after letting my car sit for 12-24 hours I will start my car and my gauges will make a sweep while resetting my trip. Is this possibly my problem or is it possible I have something failing inside the motor? Example would be during cold motor temps the oil pressure is fine, going to work at operating temp at around 1200-1500 rpms high load my pressure spazzes out, even worse if I drive hard and then go back into those ranges when motor is closer to 200 degrees. I know above 2000 rpms the pressure is very steady and acts normal.
4)When I start my car all is fine, drive to work, drive 100 miles, doesn't matter. Turn the car off and start it again within an hour when the motor is is warm and I am only hitting 6-7 cylinders. This problem goes away after a few miles. My guess is possible IAT soak? If I go to the store and let it run while I am in there for to long it will misfire as I drive off. Watching my wideband I obviously leaned out quite a bit, going from what I left the car at 14.5 or so and reading 15.5 AFR. Once my IAT goes back close to ambient temp the car smooths out and not another problem.
I did find someone with the same problem but with an LT1, his fix was new O2 Sensors...I am open loop so this is not my problem. Closed loop may possibly fix my long idle problem by keeping my car stoich but not after warm crank right?
All advice is welcomed and appreciated,
Thank you.
My car is a 99 camaro with Siemen Deka 60's in it. 2 BAR SD Custom OS(HP Tuners), so no MAF. Open loop because of my passenger exhaust manifold leak. Current temps are around 30. 1,100 ft above sea level if that makes any difference. Primary VE and my fuel data are very good. Motor is primarily stock when you think about it, new red top optima battery, -5CC pistons, ARP studs and rod bolts, Chromoly pushrods, 918 springs, titanium retainers, stock crank, stock rods, stock heads, stock ls1 intake, stock manifolds, ls6 block, stock 99 ls1 cam, 9" rear with 3.00:1 ratio.
My problems:
1) during crank sometimes my car starts up like normal other times it takes a very long time to turn over. If I attempt to start and it doesn't crank after about 1 sec I let off, I try again and it starts immediately every time. Is this excessive crank time because of excess fuel or timing or to little? With little done to the motor I don't believe I should have to change fueling during crank or spark but something is not right. How would I know?
2)With my Ford 9" I have had nothing but vibration and whining problems. Currently the backlash is horrible so there is a big gap from accel to decel. Would this cause tuning problems going into and out of load? I have a major problem tuning around 20-30 kPa because it is sometimes leaning all the way out or going to 10:1 AFR, it is not a subtle change at 35 kPa either, 35 could be -1 and 30 could be +25 on the same rpm scale.
3)Oil pressure gauge is spazzing out, almost unusable. I don't remember when it worked correctly but I have changed the sensor out recently with another Borg Warner sensor with 0 change. My battery is located in the back. About 2 gauge welding wire positive to front at distribution block and 2 gauge from battery negative to back of passenger head. 2 gauge from front of passenger head to chassis ground. Also two 2 gauge wires from battery to two chassis grounds in the trunk. The reason I added all that info is because I don't think it is grounded well enough, occasionally after letting my car sit for 12-24 hours I will start my car and my gauges will make a sweep while resetting my trip. Is this possibly my problem or is it possible I have something failing inside the motor? Example would be during cold motor temps the oil pressure is fine, going to work at operating temp at around 1200-1500 rpms high load my pressure spazzes out, even worse if I drive hard and then go back into those ranges when motor is closer to 200 degrees. I know above 2000 rpms the pressure is very steady and acts normal.
4)When I start my car all is fine, drive to work, drive 100 miles, doesn't matter. Turn the car off and start it again within an hour when the motor is is warm and I am only hitting 6-7 cylinders. This problem goes away after a few miles. My guess is possible IAT soak? If I go to the store and let it run while I am in there for to long it will misfire as I drive off. Watching my wideband I obviously leaned out quite a bit, going from what I left the car at 14.5 or so and reading 15.5 AFR. Once my IAT goes back close to ambient temp the car smooths out and not another problem.
I did find someone with the same problem but with an LT1, his fix was new O2 Sensors...I am open loop so this is not my problem. Closed loop may possibly fix my long idle problem by keeping my car stoich but not after warm crank right?
All advice is welcomed and appreciated,
Thank you.
Also I should add after some more reading, without subframes my grounds at the back of the car are almost useless it seems. The 2 gauge wire goes all the way to the front right around the right fender, at that point it makes a stop from a lack of wire, it is bolted in there underneath the car and then continued on to the block. So basically the block is grounded there and using the same connection carried through to the battery.
