Timing Table for LS1Edit
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Timing Table for LS1Edit I have been working on my tuning getting ready for the dyno. I created a timing table and wanted to get some of the more experienced Edit users to give me some input on my numbers. Here's the link:
Buschman's Timing Table Link (2000 LS1)
Give me your feed back and any constructive critizism or suggestions you may have.
Thanks,
Mike
Buschman's Timing Table Link (2000 LS1)
Give me your feed back and any constructive critizism or suggestions you may have.
Thanks,
Mike
The trends in your graph are simliar to what mine has turned out like. (Based on reducing timing where KR was encountered).
However my numbers are 7-10* lower than yours at most points.
However my numbers are 7-10* lower than yours at most points.
Last edited by bomax; May 24, 2004 at 01:19 PM.
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No, right now I'm using the 16 degree table. I just set all the tables up incase I want to bump it up or down a little bit. I have the tables preset so changes are now easy. But what do you guys think of the flow of each of the table?
Mike
Mike
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Is the excel spreadsheet coming through okay? You realize there are multiple sheet each with it's own peak timing... Cause otherwise you'd probably open up the first page and think I'm running stock timing 
Mike
Mike
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Just a bid of advice,There are a lot of people on this and other forums that think they are tuners just because they were able to raise their idle. Always check with others before you make changes suggested by a particular person. I have read comments on people telling a Nitrous applied car to do the same change on a Forced Inducted motor and vise versa...........Just beware.........
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From: Germantown, MD
Originally Posted by smokeum04
Just a bid of advice,There are a lot of people on this and other forums that think they are tuners just because they were able to raise their idle. Always check with others before you make changes suggested by a particular person. I have read comments on people telling a Nitrous applied car to do the same change on a Forced Inducted motor and vise versa...........Just beware.........
The 28 degree table is my stock timing table that came with the car. The 16 degree table came from a well known big name tuner and put on a car that ran his blower for over a year without issue. The rest are just an averaging I did between the two tables.
This graph is probably more geared towards a Turbo or Blower car as N/A and N2O guys don't have to retard timing to my knowledge.
Mike
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From: Germantown, MD
Originally Posted by TIMMEH
I'm new at this...could you explain what it is you are looking at and what you should look for specifically?
The more timing you have the more power you have, to a certain degree. But too much timing will cause detonation. So it's a fine line. Using wideband, dyno, and scanning tools like ATAP oir EFIlive, you can dial up the timing till you see detonation, back it off a tad, and you've found your maximum allowable timing.
At least this is the way I understand. I'm open to other suggestions.
The advantage of setting up a table like this is that I went ahead and created a seperate LS1Edit file with each of these timing tables(28 through 16). So when I'm on the dyno I have a rough timing table that is quickly swappable. Then once I find the timing level I want to use I can fine tune it for maximum power and/or safety. So it helps to make quick changes on the dyno without having to constantly reinvent the wheel with each table.
But I'm certainly no pro and just wanted to get an idea of what the more experienced guys thought of the different tables.
Mike
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IMHO,
No 2 engines are the same, add different mods, the type of gas used, where you located, weather, temp of intake air, what your driving style is, etc so you should not be tuning to exactly how others are and instead use what fuel flow you have and take your timing up till your getting knock values that are effecting performance and then back down just a tad.
As it is if you have all the knock functions tuned correctly even if you get a little knock the PCM will auto adjust the timing for you.
The engine gains nothing over 28 degrees during WOT at the mid to high grms/cyc so use that as your goal with knock counts as a guidemark and adjust down from there if need be.
No 2 engines are the same, add different mods, the type of gas used, where you located, weather, temp of intake air, what your driving style is, etc so you should not be tuning to exactly how others are and instead use what fuel flow you have and take your timing up till your getting knock values that are effecting performance and then back down just a tad.
As it is if you have all the knock functions tuned correctly even if you get a little knock the PCM will auto adjust the timing for you.
The engine gains nothing over 28 degrees during WOT at the mid to high grms/cyc so use that as your goal with knock counts as a guidemark and adjust down from there if need be.
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Any thoughts on how to fine tune my timing tables? Let's say I'm on the dyno and find out I can safely use the table that has 21 degrees of timing at WOT. How do I then take my dyno graphs and alter my timing tables for maximum power and greater area under the curve?
Mike
Mike
Your timing table should be an inverse of your torque curve.
Torque merely represents cylinder pressure. The primary contributor to optimal timing is cylinder pressure.
If you torque starts to fall off at 4500 rpms, then that is the point that you should start to ramp up timing. If your peak torque is at 4300 rpm, then 4300 rpm should be your lowest point of timing.
Good Luck
Torque merely represents cylinder pressure. The primary contributor to optimal timing is cylinder pressure.
If you torque starts to fall off at 4500 rpms, then that is the point that you should start to ramp up timing. If your peak torque is at 4300 rpm, then 4300 rpm should be your lowest point of timing.
Good Luck
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Originally Posted by NoGo
Your timing table should be an inverse of your torque curve.
Torque merely represents cylinder pressure. The primary contributor to optimal timing is cylinder pressure.
If you torque starts to fall off at 4500 rpms, then that is the point that you should start to ramp up timing. If your peak torque is at 4300 rpm, then 4300 rpm should be your lowest point of timing.
Good Luck
Torque merely represents cylinder pressure. The primary contributor to optimal timing is cylinder pressure.
If you torque starts to fall off at 4500 rpms, then that is the point that you should start to ramp up timing. If your peak torque is at 4300 rpm, then 4300 rpm should be your lowest point of timing.
Good Luck
I realize horsepower is just a function of torque over engine speed, but does the point of peak horsepower play any part in this equation?
Also being that I'm blow should I only worry about the 1.2 Gms/Cyl row for WOT tuning? All the rest are sort of moot unless trying to dial in part throttle tuning, correct?
Thanks for the input so far.
Mike
