SD tune - Hot Georgia summer
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
SD tune - Hot Georgia summer Hey guys,
So I've been nailing my tune down more and more every day... And then in the middle of the afternoon the other day I needed to run to the bank - so I threw my laptop in the car to get some more logs.
Well, I've been doing most my tuning/driving in the morning or night since I am normally working in the middle of the day.
My tune that is pretty well dialed in to 3,000rpm is going waaaay lean when my car reaches 220 degrees. I've been reading about this - and know it is expected - do you guys think I should tune for the 220 temps and just let my STFT lean the tune out when its getting up to summer day operating temp? Of course when fall comes I would be able to dial in for the season.
I am working on getting an aftermarket Radiator, extract/lower the heat from under the hood, and get my air intake temps down with a new intake or mods. I know this will make things more consitant.
But any suggestions on some tables (biases/etc) and how much adjustment might help to lessen the difference in the tune at 180 and 220?
Edit: Still messing with ECT vs IAT bias since I have not found what else computer wise I can do to balance this. Going back towards IAT actually seems to be helping some. Maybe that plus a true ram/cold air intake will at least lower the "jump" in need of fuel somewhere around 200-220. (I had moved it over towards ECT when I had an idle issue - which ended up being the injector timing)
I am sure someone can educate me here. I am still learning the whole tuning process. Please let me know if I am missing something simple.
Thanks!
Mike
2000 C5 A4
LQ4 6.0
TrickFlow Fast as Cast 220 Heads Milled down to 62cc
Comp cams 281LR HR-113 cam - 231/239 .617 .624 113LSA
So I've been nailing my tune down more and more every day... And then in the middle of the afternoon the other day I needed to run to the bank - so I threw my laptop in the car to get some more logs.
Well, I've been doing most my tuning/driving in the morning or night since I am normally working in the middle of the day.
My tune that is pretty well dialed in to 3,000rpm is going waaaay lean when my car reaches 220 degrees. I've been reading about this - and know it is expected - do you guys think I should tune for the 220 temps and just let my STFT lean the tune out when its getting up to summer day operating temp? Of course when fall comes I would be able to dial in for the season.
I am working on getting an aftermarket Radiator, extract/lower the heat from under the hood, and get my air intake temps down with a new intake or mods. I know this will make things more consitant.
But any suggestions on some tables (biases/etc) and how much adjustment might help to lessen the difference in the tune at 180 and 220?
Edit: Still messing with ECT vs IAT bias since I have not found what else computer wise I can do to balance this. Going back towards IAT actually seems to be helping some. Maybe that plus a true ram/cold air intake will at least lower the "jump" in need of fuel somewhere around 200-220. (I had moved it over towards ECT when I had an idle issue - which ended up being the injector timing)
I am sure someone can educate me here. I am still learning the whole tuning process. Please let me know if I am missing something simple.
Thanks!
Mike
2000 C5 A4
LQ4 6.0
TrickFlow Fast as Cast 220 Heads Milled down to 62cc
Comp cams 281LR HR-113 cam - 231/239 .617 .624 113LSA
Last edited by 00Vette04GTO; Jul 2, 2014 at 11:32 AM.
Because it's a 2000, it has the dual VE tables right?
I also have a 2000 A4 C5.
I found it a pain in the butt and went back to MAF only.
I have a Vararam, and it does help keep the IAT closer to ambient. It also heat soaks bad, not much space under the C5 hood.
I'd get your cooling and air intake mods done, then retune.
Do you have a MAF in the car?
Ron
I also have a 2000 A4 C5.
I found it a pain in the butt and went back to MAF only.
I have a Vararam, and it does help keep the IAT closer to ambient. It also heat soaks bad, not much space under the C5 hood.
I'd get your cooling and air intake mods done, then retune.
Do you have a MAF in the car?
Ron
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Hey Ron,
It is a 2000, but I upgraded the OS so only 1 table luckily.
I do still have my MAF. I was debating rather or not to go back to it. Guess in this case tune ve for 180 degrees, turn the MAF, stfts, etc. back on and rock and roll.
I am also thinking about relocating my IAT currently, as it gets blasted from heat from the radiator fans.
And I agree, cool things down and I wont have this issue. Just trying to limp for a second and also just trying to learn about all the aspects of tuning.
Thanks for the info.
-Mike
It is a 2000, but I upgraded the OS so only 1 table luckily.
I do still have my MAF. I was debating rather or not to go back to it. Guess in this case tune ve for 180 degrees, turn the MAF, stfts, etc. back on and rock and roll.
I am also thinking about relocating my IAT currently, as it gets blasted from heat from the radiator fans.
And I agree, cool things down and I wont have this issue. Just trying to limp for a second and also just trying to learn about all the aspects of tuning.
Thanks for the info.
-Mike
TECH Addict
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,379
Likes: 2
I find with the MAF dialed in correctly and going to closed loop that the car will work fine in all conditions really well. Basically it acts like stock. I've actually undone my earlier corrections to the throttle cracker and ac over/underspeed because I've been able to get things like the EOIT dialed in along with the spark dwell for my truck coils.
If it wasn't for my longtubes and true duals being loud, my setup is nearly a sleeper. With the hood up, the EOIT has really quieted the valve events so its silent. The tick of the exhaust valves closing is coming from the under side from the longtubes...
If it wasn't for my longtubes and true duals being loud, my setup is nearly a sleeper. With the hood up, the EOIT has really quieted the valve events so its silent. The tick of the exhaust valves closing is coming from the under side from the longtubes...
