anyone using N2MB WOT box??`
anyone using N2MB WOT box??` just installed mine last night, have clutch input, good tach signal, and its seeing throttle position. However, when i activate the 2 step all i get is a giant bang. If i part throttle it with the clutch down i get the beginning of what sounds to be a 2 step but sometimes it revs right through it.
nevermind i got it figured out after contacting N2MB. for anyone in the future since i found 0 information on installing this on here:
Yellow wire goes to BLUE connector pin 36 (black) Injector #1 control
Blue wire goes to RED connector pin 24 (dark blue) TPS signal
Black wire goes to ground
Red wire goes to pink wire going to coil packs for each bank (heading to fuse box)
Orange wire goes to pink wire going to coil packs for each bank (heading to coils)
Green wire, this is where it got tricky. The WOT box needs a 12v source for clutch input
however if you go off the gray wire at the clutch pedal it only get ground with the clutch pedal down. Since i dont have cruise control anymore i ended up using the other 2 wires on the clutch switch that normally go to the cruise control module. I wired the pink/black to a switched 12v source and then connected the brown/white to the green wire.
You will also have to select inverted for the clutch position in the settings.
Yellow wire goes to BLUE connector pin 36 (black) Injector #1 control
Blue wire goes to RED connector pin 24 (dark blue) TPS signal
Black wire goes to ground
Red wire goes to pink wire going to coil packs for each bank (heading to fuse box)
Orange wire goes to pink wire going to coil packs for each bank (heading to coils)
Green wire, this is where it got tricky. The WOT box needs a 12v source for clutch input
however if you go off the gray wire at the clutch pedal it only get ground with the clutch pedal down. Since i dont have cruise control anymore i ended up using the other 2 wires on the clutch switch that normally go to the cruise control module. I wired the pink/black to a switched 12v source and then connected the brown/white to the green wire.
You will also have to select inverted for the clutch position in the settings.
12 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 69
Likes: 3
From: 45 Mins Below ATL, GA
Back from the dead..... Wanted to add to this post, for other members. I will hopefully make a how to thread. This mod was alitte complicated for me (took some research). Screwed up about 3 times (hate making unnessary splices to my wiring harness). N2MB anwsered my emails very quickly after hours. Helped me fix my mistakes.
Follow the OPs instrutions for Yellow, Blue, Black wires, theses are easy.
Orange/Red- the Fuel injectors and Ignition wires are tied together, common hot wires (I didnt know this). I tied in by the PCM area. That was too early. That was before the split. So it was cutting the coils and injectors when the two step was on, (slow and losing rpm during two step).... I had to go to each coil pack bank plug (Pin H). And tie in there, to make sure I was only effecting the coils and not the injectors. As the OP said, Red goes away from the coils- to the fuses, and Orange goes to the Coils. (And this is on each coil pack bank/side (Pin H).
Green wire- I have Cruise Control unlike the OP. So I could not tie into the Clutch Pedal switch. I went to Summit Racing and picked up a standard Bosch Relay. And tied it in. Since the Clutch Pedal switch is on a ground circuit (WOT box needs a 12V). I used the Clutch Pedal to activate the relay ( via Ground). And send a 12V to the WOT box.
On the relay-
Post 85: I wired up to the Red wire on the WOT box since it went to the fuses for 12V key on source (So I had 4 wires hooked up here- Red wire from WOT, Relay Wire, 2 pink wires to fuses)
Post 86: I spliced off the wire coming out of PCM Blue pin 32 for Clutch Switch
Post 30: The relay I purchased had a jumper already installed from Post 85 to Post 30
Post 87: wired to the Green wire on the WOT box.
The relay worked perfect
Link to the relay I used:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890008/overview/
(only complaint with this relay was the spade connectors were loose fitting, I had to remove each one, and use needle nose plier to tighten down the ends.)
This is a great site for schematics
http://www.lt1swap.com/2001_ls1_schematic.htm
Follow the OPs instrutions for Yellow, Blue, Black wires, theses are easy.
Orange/Red- the Fuel injectors and Ignition wires are tied together, common hot wires (I didnt know this). I tied in by the PCM area. That was too early. That was before the split. So it was cutting the coils and injectors when the two step was on, (slow and losing rpm during two step).... I had to go to each coil pack bank plug (Pin H). And tie in there, to make sure I was only effecting the coils and not the injectors. As the OP said, Red goes away from the coils- to the fuses, and Orange goes to the Coils. (And this is on each coil pack bank/side (Pin H).
Green wire- I have Cruise Control unlike the OP. So I could not tie into the Clutch Pedal switch. I went to Summit Racing and picked up a standard Bosch Relay. And tied it in. Since the Clutch Pedal switch is on a ground circuit (WOT box needs a 12V). I used the Clutch Pedal to activate the relay ( via Ground). And send a 12V to the WOT box.
On the relay-
Post 85: I wired up to the Red wire on the WOT box since it went to the fuses for 12V key on source (So I had 4 wires hooked up here- Red wire from WOT, Relay Wire, 2 pink wires to fuses)
Post 86: I spliced off the wire coming out of PCM Blue pin 32 for Clutch Switch
Post 30: The relay I purchased had a jumper already installed from Post 85 to Post 30
Post 87: wired to the Green wire on the WOT box.
The relay worked perfect
Link to the relay I used:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890008/overview/
(only complaint with this relay was the spade connectors were loose fitting, I had to remove each one, and use needle nose plier to tighten down the ends.)
This is a great site for schematics
http://www.lt1swap.com/2001_ls1_schematic.htm
Last edited by Rok_Star_Bars; Jan 1, 2017 at 11:05 AM.
