2000 LS1 Idle Log
2000 LS1 Idle Log Would you guys mind taking a look at my log file where I attempted to tweak the idle with a T-1 cam. It feels better to me but I am more concerned with the numbers.
Basically, I changed the idle rpm's and added 4 to the airflow table.
Thanks,
Shawn
Basically, I changed the idle rpm's and added 4 to the airflow table.
Thanks,
Shawn
Last edited by Qfly; Mar 18, 2017 at 05:16 AM.
Post YOUR idea of what problems you may think you have. At that point we can help put you in the direction YOU want to go. This may sound stupid, but we get every question here from people who want a donkey dick cam to idle at 500rpm while passing emissions, up to idiots with a factory set-up who want to make their ride sound like it got banned from a top fuel event. Specific questions can get specific answers.
Post YOUR idea of what problems you may think you have. At that point we can help put you in the direction YOU want to go. This may sound stupid, but we get every question here from people who want a donkey dick cam to idle at 500rpm while passing emissions, up to idiots with a factory set-up who want to make their ride sound like it got banned from a top fuel event. Specific questions can get specific answers.
Basically, when I start the car up when cold, the idle tends to hunt around/fluctuate for a bit. After the engine warms up, I can tap the throttle and when the rpm's drop off, the engine will hunt around for a second before stabilizing again. Lastly, there is a very heavy odor of fuel during initial cold startup. The engine doesn't quit so its not that big of a deal.
Regarding the idle, I am definitely not trying to tune the engine idle for a crazy low rpm: 800 to 900 rpm is just fine in my book and if I can smooth things out a bit that would be a plus. The car has been running this way for a long time and it is something I have become accustom to.
I am a new user of Hp Tuners Pro and thought it would be a good idea to begin with tuning something relatively simple to start with. In my opinion, the small tweaks I have made in HP Tuners have already made the idle night and day better compared to before so overall, I am very happy with the current results of my first attempt! The next step after getting the idle dialed in is to tame the small amount of the bucking bronco syndrome that happens around 1st and 2nd and low speeds.
I have been running the T-1 cam for 15 years without a tune so I figured it was about time
Update: I have removed the AIR along with the EGR and used the block-off plates and still have the O2 sensors plugged in. What is the recommended method to delete the air and egr in HP Tuners?
Much appreciated for the feedback!
Last edited by Qfly; Mar 18, 2017 at 08:10 AM.
Your best place to start is to set up your scanner to log dynamic airflow, IAC count, and engine temperature. You will eventually want to log desired airflow, as well as (**** it, the list is too long). The first step will be to modify the base running airflow table to more closely approximate the readings you obtained by logging dynamic airflow. This should be a first step in taming your hunting idle. Once you have a somewhat solid base running airflow table, there are dozens of modifier tables that can be (but might not need to be) adjusted. Things like the smell of fuel open a whole new can of worms involving OL vs CL fueling, injector timing, spark timing, etc.
edit-- to disable AIR and EGR, go to engine diagnostics-DTC, and set those codes to no error reported. It won't hurt to also uncheck SES enabled.
double edit- I almost forgot that the reason to specifically log IAC count is to insure that the idle control valve is giving good info. I have seen a bad valve change numbers in a way that seemed right, but sometimes a range of IAC counts corresponded to an entirely different amount of airflow than other times. This obviously made the idle untuneable.
edit-- to disable AIR and EGR, go to engine diagnostics-DTC, and set those codes to no error reported. It won't hurt to also uncheck SES enabled.
double edit- I almost forgot that the reason to specifically log IAC count is to insure that the idle control valve is giving good info. I have seen a bad valve change numbers in a way that seemed right, but sometimes a range of IAC counts corresponded to an entirely different amount of airflow than other times. This obviously made the idle untuneable.
Last edited by gametech; Mar 18, 2017 at 10:14 PM.
Your best place to start is to set up your scanner to log dynamic airflow, IAC count, and engine temperature. You will eventually want to log desired airflow, as well as (**** it, the list is too long). The first step will be to modify the base running airflow table to more closely approximate the readings you obtained by logging dynamic airflow. This should be a first step in taming your hunting idle. Once you have a somewhat solid base running airflow table, there are dozens of modifier tables that can be (but might not need to be) adjusted. Things like the smell of fuel open a whole new can of worms involving OL vs CL fueling, injector timing, spark timing, etc.
edit-- to disable AIR and EGR, go to engine diagnostics-DTC, and set those codes to no error reported. It won't hurt to also uncheck SES enabled.
double edit- I almost forgot that the reason to specifically log IAC count is to insure that the idle control valve is giving good info. I have seen a bad valve change numbers in a way that seemed right, but sometimes a range of IAC counts corresponded to an entirely different amount of airflow than other times. This obviously made the idle untuneable.
edit-- to disable AIR and EGR, go to engine diagnostics-DTC, and set those codes to no error reported. It won't hurt to also uncheck SES enabled.
double edit- I almost forgot that the reason to specifically log IAC count is to insure that the idle control valve is giving good info. I have seen a bad valve change numbers in a way that seemed right, but sometimes a range of IAC counts corresponded to an entirely different amount of airflow than other times. This obviously made the idle untuneable.
I will reload the stock programming into the car and start over by logging the first three items you mentioned and go from there.
Also, I managed to get the air and egr deleted.
This tuning crap is addictive!
Cheers!
It looks as though I need to add a little timing at the 400 and 800 rpm range to keep the idle from dropping below the target number.
