Using HP tuners timing to reduce power for traction
Unfortunately, to go much faster, it would take 4 tires not just 2.
I managed to get an arduino to read the factory ABS sensors on my C4 corvette.
With a tiny bit of math, it will force a table switch on microsquirt and change to a completely different timing table for a super quick and easy $14 timing based traction control.
Having it do the exact same thing with the IAT switch trick on a stock PCM would be cake, assuming the truck has at least rear ABS sensors, and either front ABS sensors or a working electric speedo signal somewhere.
With a tiny bit of math, it will force a table switch on microsquirt and change to a completely different timing table for a super quick and easy $14 timing based traction control.
Having it do the exact same thing with the IAT switch trick on a stock PCM would be cake, assuming the truck has at least rear ABS sensors, and either front ABS sensors or a working electric speedo signal somewhere.
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
Look into IAT timing retard. You wire your IAT signal through a 5-pin relay so that its passing through the normally closed circuit and acts as normal. Activating the relay disconnects the IAT signal and forced the ECU to read the coldest columns of the IAT timing tables, where you can tell it to pull as much timing as you wish.
Activating the relay is the hard part. Most guys use a momentary button on the shifter and use it to cut timing to negative to spool a turbo on the line. The one in my Nova is activated with the brake pedal for the same reason. If you had ABS sensors, you could use an arduino to read the speeds and activate the relay if it sees the rear tires spinning faster than the fronts.
Or you could just use HPT and pull timing out of the mid range to prevent spinning, but it will slow you down.
Activating the relay is the hard part. Most guys use a momentary button on the shifter and use it to cut timing to negative to spool a turbo on the line. The one in my Nova is activated with the brake pedal for the same reason. If you had ABS sensors, you could use an arduino to read the speeds and activate the relay if it sees the rear tires spinning faster than the fronts.
Or you could just use HPT and pull timing out of the mid range to prevent spinning, but it will slow you down.
I managed to get an arduino to read the factory ABS sensors on my C4 corvette.
With a tiny bit of math, it will force a table switch on microsquirt and change to a completely different timing table for a super quick and easy $14 timing based traction control.
Having it do the exact same thing with the IAT switch trick on a stock PCM would be cake, assuming the truck has at least rear ABS sensors, and either front ABS sensors or a working electric speedo signal somewhere.
With a tiny bit of math, it will force a table switch on microsquirt and change to a completely different timing table for a super quick and easy $14 timing based traction control.
Having it do the exact same thing with the IAT switch trick on a stock PCM would be cake, assuming the truck has at least rear ABS sensors, and either front ABS sensors or a working electric speedo signal somewhere.
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
So you're saying it works like conventional traction control? When it detects higher wheel speed in the rear it switches to a different timing table and then switches back once speeds are close again? How quickly does it react back and forth and how effective has it been?
I haven't spent a lot of time seeing how fast it reacts. Once it spins, it reacts before I'm able to blow the tires off, and seems to stay in reduced timing mode until the spinning stops completely. The only issue is that it will stop spinning, add timing and start spinning again. It almost feels like the rear ABS is kicking in and I get a slight shudder.
humans remedied traction through power reduction with drive by wire solutions. Doing it with other methods is dated and out of popularity, since even without traction issues the linearity of cable driven throttle bodies does not complement the curve-like onset of power from a given random engine in a majority of situations. Many changes to an engine may result with reduced or altered power curves with DBW doing it more elegantly and efficiently, when necessary than most if not all other methods.
imo, bottom line is: If I had a car that needed guaranteed traction for $$$ races it needs to be DBW proper.
imo, bottom line is: If I had a car that needed guaranteed traction for $$$ races it needs to be DBW proper.
It reads and averages rear wheel speeds, and then reads and averages front wheel speeds. If the rear speed is greater than or equal to 1.15x the fronts, it activates a relay on the wire microsquirt uses for table switching, and it pulls timing depending on RPM/KpA. Anything over 100 kpa gets 10 degrees knocks out so it doesn't kill me. Anything below 4000 RPM only gets 5 degrees pulled. I haven't fine tuned it, but it works fine. I stop spinning pretty quickly. I'll have to adjust just how much timing it pulled to keep it from switching so rapidly and find a nice medium.
I haven't spent a lot of time seeing how fast it reacts. Once it spins, it reacts before I'm able to blow the tires off, and seems to stay in reduced timing mode until the spinning stops completely. The only issue is that it will stop spinning, add timing and start spinning again. It almost feels like the rear ABS is kicking in and I get a slight shudder.
I haven't spent a lot of time seeing how fast it reacts. Once it spins, it reacts before I'm able to blow the tires off, and seems to stay in reduced timing mode until the spinning stops completely. The only issue is that it will stop spinning, add timing and start spinning again. It almost feels like the rear ABS is kicking in and I get a slight shudder.
humans remedied traction through power reduction with drive by wire solutions. Doing it with other methods is dated and out of popularity, since even without traction issues the linearity of cable driven throttle bodies does not complement the curve-like onset of power from a given random engine in a majority of situations. Many changes to an engine may result with reduced or altered power curves with DBW doing it more elegantly and efficiently, when necessary than most if not all other methods.
imo, bottom line is: If I had a car that needed guaranteed traction for $$$ races it needs to be DBW proper.
imo, bottom line is: If I had a car that needed guaranteed traction for $$$ races it needs to be DBW proper.
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Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Ohio
There is not one SINGLE person that enjoys having him here. He's a plague that spits out useless "knowledge" yet he has absolutely nothing to show for it. No merits, no accomplishments, not even a completed LS swap. Nothing.
Agree, funny how people that haven't done anything have so much to say. Although he did make me laugh with his last comment... so its free entertainment. Him thinking fast cars with traction control need to have DBW TB is hilarious, he obviously hasn't seen a race car with a Davis box.
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Verdad Gallardo I don't get to play with any cool toys, or see any race cars. This isn't a site for people with race cars, or even that own cars. you can be here and never have owned a car before, it isn't a pre-req. I am poor homeless person with no property of my own and you can only bash me for it?? Thanks
what would you consider an accomplishment? tie your shoe laces? So I can be sure to become important in your eyes. because it means sooooo much to me.
what would you consider an accomplishment? tie your shoe laces? So I can be sure to become important in your eyes. because it means sooooo much to me.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
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From: Central Cal.
No, it's about backing up theory with actual knowledge of how things work in real life. A homeless person can hang around race cars, ask questions, see how it ACTUALLY works in real life without owning it. So knock off the pity-party-tirade. Some of your posts on these forums make good sense, then other times you come out of left field with theoretical BS that has no real connection with reality. Like the above about DBW that is proven all day to be BS.
Thinking about it some more, if it just ran like a stock 4.8 it would probably be faster.
I think I will limit total timing to 20 degrees, leave idle timing where it's at, and make a straight line in between.
I'll give it a go on the street and see what it does. I know it is easy to kill power, but I'm just going to have to play with killing power without killing response.
I think I will limit total timing to 20 degrees, leave idle timing where it's at, and make a straight line in between.
I'll give it a go on the street and see what it does. I know it is easy to kill power, but I'm just going to have to play with killing power without killing response.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2013
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Because you basically asked the tuning equivalent to;
-Who has ran a wider tire and gained traction?
-Who has went boost and gained power?
-Who has removed parts and lost weight?
-Who has turned on their heater and felt warm air?
So yes, its a little hard for me to grasp the purpose of this post.
I have timing by gear setup on the stock PCM. Works like a charm running less timing in first gear to gain traction with a manual boost controller. Hundreds, if not THOUSANDS of racers pull timing in first gear to gain traction. Its common practice.
-Who has ran a wider tire and gained traction?
-Who has went boost and gained power?
-Who has removed parts and lost weight?
-Who has turned on their heater and felt warm air?
So yes, its a little hard for me to grasp the purpose of this post.
I have timing by gear setup on the stock PCM. Works like a charm running less timing in first gear to gain traction with a manual boost controller. Hundreds, if not THOUSANDS of racers pull timing in first gear to gain traction. Its common practice.
Do you have a write up on how you did this?
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
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From: Ohio
I have a video made with HPTuners setup as a demonstration. I'll post it up hopefully in the next couple of weeks as I'm trying to get the boost by gear video working as well.
Keep an eye out here for it:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJ6...aKBaK3shsXkJmw
Keep an eye out here for it:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJ6...aKBaK3shsXkJmw
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Think he's ever gotten laid?
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
Jordan, nobody here ever said you were a bad person. And its obvious you're not stupid. You're just unbearable.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
humans remedied traction through power reduction with drive by wire solutions. Doing it with other methods is dated and out of popularity, since even without traction issues the linearity of cable driven throttle bodies does not complement the curve-like onset of power from a given random engine in a majority of situations. Many changes to an engine may result with reduced or altered power curves with DBW doing it more elegantly and efficiently, when necessary than most if not all other methods.
imo, bottom line is: If I had a car that needed guaranteed traction for $$$ races it needs to be DBW proper.
imo, bottom line is: If I had a car that needed guaranteed traction for $$$ races it needs to be DBW proper.
