Supercharger Start up Tune?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Detroit, Michigan
Supercharger Start up Tune? Hi all,
Over the winter I have been building up my 2008 LS3 C6. The current build is as follows:
ARH 1-7/8" long tubes
Catless X-pipe
ECS1500 supercharger kit
ID1000 injectors
Vortech BAP
Flex-fuel sensor
My question is in regards to creating a base tune that I can get running on. My gut feel here is that not much has to change provided I stay out of boost, especially since the engine is still on the stock cam. Clearly the ID1000 injector data needs to imported, and if I decide to put ethanol in the tank, then that portion of the calibration needs to be adjusted. But if I just want to get the vehicle driving on 93, I assume that the stock calibration should be robust, especially considering it will still be running off the MAF.
Now, even when I DO get into boost, I understand that the car will probably want the PE to be a bit richer, but if the car is running off the MAF, shouldn't it sense the additional air flow? Granted, timing has to come out for sure, but assuming I just knock down the timing into the mid teens, and allow the knock control to do its thing, the engine should be safe, correct? I'm not looking to make up a tune that I can run down the strip, but I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything obvious to just get it out on the street.
So in summary, to get the car out the garage and onto the road:
- Richen up P.E table
- Take timing out when in boost (what level of g/sec would this be?), maybe around 105Kpa of MAP
- Disable the cat protection logic
- Calibrate off the rear 02 sensors
- Maybe increase the control of the knock system
Does that about sum it up? Will the additional load of the blower want to make the car stall when I tip out the pedal? What about the BAP, I think it's set to come on around 4psi of manifold pressure via the Hobbs switch. I don't think I need to consider this in my tune, correct? My understanding is that the BAP is just going to allow me to maintain pressure to the injectors as the flow rate increases past what the factory pump can handle.
Not new to engine building/EFI tuning in the slightest, but I've never touched a GM product or HPTuners before this. Not looking to reinvent the wheel, just looking for advice from some forum members who know better than I do.
Over the winter I have been building up my 2008 LS3 C6. The current build is as follows:
ARH 1-7/8" long tubes
Catless X-pipe
ECS1500 supercharger kit
ID1000 injectors
Vortech BAP
Flex-fuel sensor
My question is in regards to creating a base tune that I can get running on. My gut feel here is that not much has to change provided I stay out of boost, especially since the engine is still on the stock cam. Clearly the ID1000 injector data needs to imported, and if I decide to put ethanol in the tank, then that portion of the calibration needs to be adjusted. But if I just want to get the vehicle driving on 93, I assume that the stock calibration should be robust, especially considering it will still be running off the MAF.
Now, even when I DO get into boost, I understand that the car will probably want the PE to be a bit richer, but if the car is running off the MAF, shouldn't it sense the additional air flow? Granted, timing has to come out for sure, but assuming I just knock down the timing into the mid teens, and allow the knock control to do its thing, the engine should be safe, correct? I'm not looking to make up a tune that I can run down the strip, but I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything obvious to just get it out on the street.
So in summary, to get the car out the garage and onto the road:
- Richen up P.E table
- Take timing out when in boost (what level of g/sec would this be?), maybe around 105Kpa of MAP
- Disable the cat protection logic
- Calibrate off the rear 02 sensors
- Maybe increase the control of the knock system
Does that about sum it up? Will the additional load of the blower want to make the car stall when I tip out the pedal? What about the BAP, I think it's set to come on around 4psi of manifold pressure via the Hobbs switch. I don't think I need to consider this in my tune, correct? My understanding is that the BAP is just going to allow me to maintain pressure to the injectors as the flow rate increases past what the factory pump can handle.
Not new to engine building/EFI tuning in the slightest, but I've never touched a GM product or HPTuners before this. Not looking to reinvent the wheel, just looking for advice from some forum members who know better than I do.
