I have a 2000 ss camaro with a d1x. It sat for a few years until I bought it. Its from California (0 ft elevation) now its 4500 ft Nevada.

The car has a "shitty" SD tune and the IAT is tuned out. I was told to not connect it.

The old owner is unsure if the MAF is tuned out. Its hooked up.

My question is how do I drive it to reno (60 miles) to get it tuned without hurting the car.

Any ideas would be great thanks.

I was thinking of getting a new PCM (need one anyways because tune is locked.) and driving but the car has 60lb injectors.

Does someone do tuning on just PCMs?

 

Sounds like the tuner didn't want anyone too see their "work". Tuning out the IAT is just lazy. It's better just to move it to the intake manifold, because so much in the tune relies on it for corrections. You are probably going to have problems with the altitude change. The MAF can be hooked up, so long as it's disabled in the tune. Easy way to check is just unplug it and see if you get a light. If you do, then it's still active in the tune.

Does it have a wide band installed? If so, and the AFR's are good or close, then I don't see why it couldn't make it 60 miles.

There are places out there that do PCM mail order tunes too, but I still highly recommend getting it tuned or verified in person. I see issues with those tunes everyday on here almost, and as always it just can't be as accurate as sitting in the car and using data to make changes. The mail order tunes typically get it close enough to get it somewhere pretty much, when it's a heavily modded engine. Every engine is different and it really is just guessing based on a mods list, and doing some standard stuff across the board.

 

The iat was tuned out because the car owner didn’t have a working one. If I was to use HP tuners could I just activate the iat?

 

Yes but it will cost you 2 credits. You should do that though. That's a pretty important sensor.

 

Why would someone turn off the IAT? thats asinine.

 

It’s not the Tuner‘s fault. Apparently there was an issue with the Iat that the owner of the car had.

 

im not a tuner. Will activating the iat change the tune?

 

Yes, but how much will depend on what else was tuned out. The biggest affect will be at idle, and will affect some fueling calcs, especially for cold starts. Technically my car is the other way around, as in the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) is disabled for fueling calculations because my IAT sensor is in the intake manifold, so heat soak is already accounted for. Otherwise, on a standard setup, there is a temperature bias in effect between ECT and IAT.

However, every other table that has ECT on it is still in effect in my case because I am simply using the simple bias model, not tuning the ECT sensor out of anything but the dynamic air calcs (fueling). If one of those was more important, I would say it's the IAT, ESPECIALLY if it's a boosted car. Boost causes heat, and ECT is too slow to react in time to tell the PCM to start adding fuel and pulling spark. Just saying.

 

I'm not trying to dog on the tuner, but with a boosted setup like yours, actually fixing that sensor would have been my #1 priority, as right now it should be for you too. It's not all that hard. I know wires are scary when they get out of their sheaths, but a new sensor, a good set of crimpers (the expensive ones preferably) some heat shrink, some bare 18-22ga butt connectors, and some 18-22ga TXL wire goes a long way to fixing these issues, for good. It's a straight shot to the sensor, no relays, diodes or anything else. Just a few wires between the sensor and the PCM.

So in my opinion, that still puts not fixing it in the lazy category for the tuner and previous owner. While you're at it, make sure you install it in the intake MANIFOLD and not the filter area or anywhere else for that matter. That's a pretty important detail if you ever want to push that boost hard.

If you need help we're here just for that. Once you have that figured out then I would have it tuned again. Or buy HP tuners and start learning how. That's an option too lol.

 

Its been fixed for a long time. I’ll never push the boost. Using a 4” pully at 4500ft. I might even dial it down further.

Thanks for the help.

 

You are being EXTREMELY generous. His "tuner" should be named and dogged for all eternity. This sort of bullshit is what gives everybody with a keyboard a bad name. Nobody with an ounce of integrity would tune anything but a carb without an IAT in place. The idea that the "tune" is locked is another nail in the coffin. Two types of people lock tunes. One are pros who do not want their work stolen, but nobody complains about them. All of the rest are hacks who either steal generic tunes, or do nothing at all to the tune other than delete sensors.

 

You're right, I am being pretty generous there lol. Normally I'm an ******* when people do stupid **** like that not understanding that sensor is partly responsible for calculating the VE... Which is pretty important in the grand scheme. I guess I just don't like posting things on forums for all eternity in an effort to shame someone. Maybe he's reading this, maybe not. Not the point of my post really. The point was to fix the sensor, that's all.

I'm actually a oldschool senior NCO in the Army, combat arms too. So I know all about being a raging dick, when warranted. I don't have all the details as to how this tuner made this decision, but you're right, it doesn't bode well. It's one of those things if I had a maintainer (UH-60) do to an aircraft, I would have them in my office to answer for it. Once I am satisfied with the decision on if they are completely at fault or negligent, then I crucify them will full extent. I've learned (imagine that, even I can do it!) that it's best to have all the details before really tearing someones spine out through their chest.

But yeah, this dude should probably hang up the keyboard and go back to hondas or some ****.

 

Back to the tuner lock problem you have Benz... About that.... There are basically 2 options here, one is bring it back to that specific tooner that locked it and have him unlock it for you, or replace the PCM. The odds of finding someone in your area that can factory flash it and start over are low, to say the least. I've read that it's possible, but it requires special equipment to make it happen. You are probably better off ordering a new PCM and going from there, since it's probably cheaper anyway. Call around too, maybe someone in your area has the skills for that. I know I don't.

Don't replace it when you get it though. Take it to a competent tuner, with new PCM in hand (none are really new btw) and swap it right there. It's pretty damn easy. Then they can tune it for you. It will make their life and yours much easier going that route. Because that dude fucked you pretty good with that dumbass feature, which is just as Gametech mentioned. Only pros and hacks really use it. Personally I don't give a rats *** if someone borrows my tunes. I even post them here. I give no *****. Good tuners generally don't. We own up to our mistakes too and ask advice. It's literally how you get good at it. You don't learn **** without making tons of mistakes, as well as accepting advice and constructive criticism. Hell I even made videos that include my tunes and logs. I am always open to suggestions if there is a better way to do something. Ones of the reasons I spend a lot of time here, because I learn something almost everyday from other peoples experience. ******* tuner lock. What the actual ****?

Gametech is right I guess, I am being pretty easy on that tooner. What a ******* joke. Sorry for you bro, and sorry I had to be the bearer of bad news there. Make sure you get the correct PCM for your car. Pretty sure the 0411 (P01) should work just fine for your model year.

Note: I am a few deep into a fresh bottle of 100 proof. That is all. Carry on.

 

This shows how to get around the tuner lock. Never tried it myself but is worth a watch.