Brandon Reyes

-It runs but dies sometimes when at stop sign
-starts up pretty fast
-Idle jumps to 1000 then drops down then back up
-loss of power
-my egr soln valve is not hooked up

you need anymore info let me know
thanks for the help

This is my codes i got
(16,23,25,26,32,36,42,48,63)


Heres a video of idle(click on link to watch)

AndyTA

Those codes that it's throwing - it's a mess to look through but they make sense given the situation. I'm surprised it's even able to keep itself on. You need to physically verify all of those components for damage and check the wiring. It's throwing those codes for a reason, and you need to verify why. Either you have a rat going through chewing your harness up, or someone was in there and didn't know what they were doing.

did you buy it this way, or made some modifications?

Also, If we are to assume your coolant temperature gauge actually works, you're at 20 psi of oil pressure on a cold motor.

Either your motor is also very low on oil, or your bearings have seen better days.

we will help however we can. I feel like more info and diagnosis is required from your end.

thanks,
Andy

Edit: Your oil pressure does rise as the RPM's increase, so at least that's a good sign :-) Check oil level just in case.
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Brandon Reyes

Okay i will look at some more things tomorrow.

-Yeah i bought it from someone like this it was running bad when i first bought it, i drove it all the way home like 20 mils away on the high way lol .

-I will check the oil i did a full tune up on it like Plug wires, spark plugs, oil , oil filter , trans filter.

-But yeah there is a switch under steering wheel that the guy said his dad made to turn on the radiator fan idk why he did this. ( guessing because it didn't turn on by its self, he wired directly in fan relay to the fan also) .- i can make a video explaining/ showing this more if needed to

-there are some vacuum hoses that are unplugged i don't know where they go .

- some wires i am sure are not working properly.

-I Really appreciate the help a lot

AndyTA

Sure, no problem. Now if we look back at your code list, here are the ones I would focus on (in other words, we're going to ignore the "un-important" ones - although they still matter on a "stock" setup to work correctly):

16 - I can't be of more assistance here, as my knowledge is mostly 98+ year models that are fuel injected/don't use distributors. However, this is an important one for you, as it controls spark.
23 - IAT sensor - obviously necessary - Locate the sensor, check that the wires are connected/not damaged. Remove the sensor, check for damage/dirt/
25 - same as above
36 - see #16 - important for proper spark timing
42 - i assume related to #16 and #36
48 - this is your MAF - do the same as #23. Look for visual damage of the wiring harness leading to it - remove sensor/inspect cleanliness of the sensor/MAF
63 - inspect wires leading to the sensor. This is important as long as it's talking about the front sensor. So bank 2 sensor 1. Used for fueling adjustments. Or, the sensor is damaged, replace it.

Aka, we are ignoring the EGR bullshit for now. More so emissions related.

In regards to your vacuum hoses - this is an issue that needs to be looked at as well. You're going to have vacuum leaks. I can't help with this - I simply don't know an engine bay of that year model well enough.

Your issues are all solvable. I'd say your harness is screwed or someone went in there cutting lines or there was some sort of water damage that randomly ate stuff away.

AndyTA

And also... the paranoid person locked in me says... someone may have tried to remove the engine at some point, or did a swap/engine change for some reason, which would explain all your vacuum hoses being ripped up. So:

Check your engine mounts and suspensions bolts - all of them.

Brandon Reyes

The car dose have headers , he may have had to take the engine out for that he said a shop did it for him .

i will start looking at stuff hey and I appreciate your help a lot.