Ordered HP Tuner MPVI2
If it's been a while i would to a heater recal and a fresh air cal. If the sensor is really old. I'd get a new one.
Just my .02
hooked into the out side of the cable on the gauge.
getting some readings. gotta figure out why i have a no start issue now though. I think i need to do a vats physical bypass, as ive already had it disabled in the tube before. i had a P1626 code on the DTC. I did just do HID and fan harness upgrade, but indont think that could have fried abything. im jist glad i have this scanner now to really see whats going on. once i get that sorted out, then ill actually see what my WB is reading. according to the gauge, the WB says 22 but HPT says 20.
I took a screen shot of a spot where its showing this.
I uploaded my current tune and scan file as well. Car was running rich before, now its worse after I moved the turbo up front. Not sure why it would start running so rich and keep me from getting boost. use to make 10 psi and pull hard on rear mount, now its struggling rich to get to 2psi, and I haven't really even started tuning anything. im actually trying to clean it up
again it was tuned speed density. I don't even think. I adjusted the PE table is set to 1.257 across the tables.
SO my next question is, after I gather some data from a drive... what do I do with it? I see data up on the right hand corner, and I hear "paste in data" all the time, but what exactly are you guys doing to adjust stuff after you make a run, based off of what exactly? I have data, now I just don't know what to do with it LOL but im learning!!

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With an 8 PSI difference from before, it appears that you are getting rich because of the lack of PSI. I’m not on my laptop, so I’m just going off your screenshot and what you said here, not your tune or log. I would investigate throughly and try an see why you aren’t hitting 10 PSI. This sounds like the problem, as this will obviously affect the tune, and your airmass model(s). My worry is, if you tune it for 2 PSI and then later get it back to 10, you may end up in a lean condition, which is dangerous. However, since you are running SD, this is MAP based, in theory that spot on the table should always be 2 PSI. However considering this issue sounds mechanical, that means that may change after it’s corrected and that same spot on the table may be 4 or 6 PSI later, or 10 like you stated it was before. In that case, you would suddenly become dangerously lean.
As for your question on how to use the data, I made videos exactly for this purpose in order to save me keyboard time explaining it. The link is in my signature, and you may find a number of videos there to help you expand your knowledge on tuning. I cover boost too, the physics behind it, scaling, and a ton of other useful things to know. In the long run, those videos save everyone time, including you, because it’s all right there laid out for you.
I also bought the newer style AEM wideband so I had to add a couple of pins and wires and hoping to log the wideband by the serial method. I hope mine works out.
Weird how the standard wideband method is analog with the new HP Tuners for the older vehicles.
With an 8 PSI difference from before, it appears that you are getting rich because of the lack of PSI. I’m not on my laptop, so I’m just going off your screenshot and what you said here, not your tune or log. I would investigate throughly and try an see why you aren’t hitting 10 PSI. This sounds like the problem, as this will obviously affect the tune, and your airmass model(s). My worry is, if you tune it for 2 PSI and then later get it back to 10, you may end up in a lean condition, which is dangerous. However, since you are running SD, this is MAP based, in theory that spot on the table should always be 2 PSI. However considering this issue sounds mechanical, that means that may change after it’s corrected and that same spot on the table may be 4 or 6 PSI later, or 10 like you stated it was before. In that case, you would suddenly become dangerously lean.
As for your question on how to use the data, I made videos exactly for this purpose in order to save me keyboard time explaining it. The link is in my signature, and you may find a number of videos there to help you expand your knowledge on tuning. I cover boost too, the physics behind it, scaling, and a ton of other useful things to know. In the long run, those videos save everyone time, including you, because it’s all right there laid out for you.
I really appreciate the video direction! The PDF's and guides are good, but damn a video really helps with the "visual". With HPtuners updates in the past few years and MPVI2, some of the tables or views looks look different or might be named differently slightly. It also doesn't help im limited to a 98 PCM.
I also bought the newer style AEM wideband so I had to add a couple of pins and wires and hoping to log the wideband by the serial method. I hope mine works out.
Weird how the standard wideband method is analog with the new HP Tuners for the older vehicles.
Also, I watched several of those videos. I found a few flaws in my original tune. Matter of fact, the IFR was only scaled around 60lbs anyway from the get go, so I wonder if that was part of the issue as well. I set up the tables for VE AF error so I can data log, and then copy and past into the VE table. Im gonna see if I need to modify it anymore than I need to. I learned how to copy and paste into the tables as well as smooth surrounding tables. Im gonna leave the spark alone for now, as it actually looks ok compared to the videos I was watching. Learned a lot on the VE video as well as the boost video. Almost like a light bulb moments once everything kind of clicked into place.
I screen shot my high octane and Spark tables for reference as well, sorry if I don't have the maps orientated correctl. Its just to give a picture of where everything is currently, before I do any changes. Like I said, a lot of the original tune was pretty smooth, but obviously something needs to be adjusted for the enrichment, if not in the tune something physical maybe like the wastegate spring, manual boost controller, or even the BOV. One thing that make me concerned but im not sure if its important yet, since I haven't logged my driving time yet, is that the LTFT and STFT are all over the place. I was reading somewhere that it should be between -5. Now do I need to concern myself too much on this if i'm tuning in Speed Density, not going with the MAF?
This weekend when I have an hour or so to kill, im gonna do a nice cruise down my highway that has some decent hills, 55MPHish and stop lights along the way. I might be able to get on the interstates but I don't want to push it too far yet. not sure how long my battery will last on my computer for logging.
I copied that 60lbs injector files IFR and I will try that out and see how those do with that setup. I think it starts around 72 or 72 and scales up to 83lbs. Ill copying it across the table after some logging to see if that changes anything. I think I might remove the boost controller and just rely on gate pressure for now. until then.
Any objections to this?
Edit to add: do you have a secondary VE table? If so remember the ECM looks at the secondary VE table first. So enter the data there then copy over to the primary table, then interpolate between the missing numbers in the row axis.
Last edited by RedXray; Jul 31, 2020 at 11:50 PM.
Edit to add: do you have a secondary VE table? If so remember the ECM looks at the secondary VE table first. So enter the data there then copy over to the primary table, then interpolate between the missing numbers in the row axis.
hiding somewhere else. Heres my menu for VE
And I also have it in open loop like the VE video told me to do lol
seen here:
I did this. I set the IFR to 72lbs across the table and man does it run better already.
But day and night with attempted WOT. Idle is settles down to 800rpm faster. heres some VE smoothing I did from the last drive and the data log








