O2 Sensor Variance in HP VCM Scanner?
Below is a waveform of what I'm noticing (I've also attached the tune file and data log). Bank 2 seems to fall out of agreement with Bank 1. It will do this for a while then match up again. Not sure what that is or if is normal.
1. Are there separating fueling trims for each bank?
2. Once I turned back on closed loop, the trims got confused. It tripped code P1133 to say there was switching on bank 2. I don't think is a electrical issue otherwise, my waveforms in HP tuners would be flatlined no?
I've further diagnosed the P1133 / P1153 by checking for exhaust leaks, of which I found none. I had stuffed a rag in the tail pipe to increase exhaust pressure. Then crawled around the entire exhaust, O2 bungs, EGR, etc and heard no leaks. I also pulled all the spark plugs to see if any were fouled. They all look perfect. However, I took the EGR valve off, blew in the open port to test valve's seal. The seal is leaking. I ordered block off plates for EGR / delete kit. I hopefully that's what tripping the P1133 code?
Also, are you sure the MAF is failed? DTC present? Not sure what your mods are, but the VE chart doesn't look right. You shouldn't be over 100% anywhere unless boosted, or you built a 9,000 rpm screamer.
MAP Tuning: The tune I uploaded is a MAP tune for VE table. I forced it to use the MAP sensor only by failing out the MAF. Then I adjusted the VE table based off of wideband error off commanded AFR. Not sure if that's the best way to keep computer from using MAF but was the way the tutorials I'm following did it. I got my adjustments to fuel within mostly 1% no more than 3% on a few cells.
MAF Tuning: I used a similar strategy to tune the MAF, only disabled the MAP, and closed loop. However, that curve wasn't tuned as well. I got it decent but not perfect. Problem is my transmission is giving out under all the power. Swapped a built 6.0L in in place of my old 5.3L on a truck with potentially 240k miles on transmission so I'm not doing much WOT or high RPM stuff right now.
Spark Tuning: I have a separate tune to play with spark. It's closed loop using both MAP and MAF. I've been noticing when fidgeting with timing certainly under 2400 RPM it is really low on timing. I've added about 4 degrees across the table and got no knock down low, just up higher.
My mods: naturally aspirated 6.0 LQ9 short block with 317 heads. Roger Vinci Camshaft M/T 562 (578/587/213/220/114+4A). 2116LSR Johnson Lifters. All of this in is a 2001 Chevy Tahoe. Project is a long story. It's a POS that I took on rebuilding, slowly turning into a beast. Honestly, runs like $heet especially down low right now. Takes off like a rocket ship after 3500 RPM. Intention was to make a low / torquy gasoline motor.
I really don't know if I'm doing right, wrong, or otherwise when tuning. I'm learning as I go, using lots of gas up. Following Goat Rope Garage tutorials on Youtube for Gen III. I need to doubly thank you for that feedback! It's super helpful!
Also, are you sure the MAF is failed? DTC present? Not sure what your mods are, but the VE chart doesn't look right. You shouldn't be over 100% anywhere unless boosted, or you built a 9,000 rpm screamer.
Engine->Fuel->Power Enrich->Throttle
Hot & Cold tables currently set to 90% throttle position for PE. I had fiddled with that before but didn't see any difference. I pulled it down to 65%. Is that because I also have to be over the delay RPM?
Also hot select is set to 285F which I don't understand. I'd never get that hot. I'm not sure why they set it so high?
Engine->Fuel->Power Enrich->Delay
I'm looking at this. I doesn't seem to be utilized in my tune? It says the delay is zero seconds under 5500 RPM so not really any delay at all?





